gogmorgo

The slides (that get the divots) are on a bracket that unbolts from the knuckle, meaning replacing the entire knuckle is unnecessary, no?

The ballast resistor is usually located somewhere along the inner fender, on driver's side of the engine compartment. I don't know if the four-cyl would have had one, but the 4.0's looks like this:

Giving them directions on where to look for next time doesn't count as giving them a hard time. :dunno:

But not as bad as it could be...

No, and it's not exactly searchable either, so it promotes a culture of asking the same questions over and over again instead of looking for the info yourself.

I went out to bleed the master cylinder this morning and found both reservoirs empty. There was a big leak that I missed from the T on the rear axle. I guess the stress of getting the old lines out and putting new ones in was too much for the aluminum, as it had a crack down the middle. When I saw the leak the other night I just assumed the lines weren't tight so I tightened them further, probably made it worse. I also discovered that the copper crush washer I stole from the MJ stash must be too thick for the Lada caliper at the front... there was a leak hiding behind a mess I made when the hose popped off the bleed nipple, and trying to tighten it down resulted only in pulling the threads out of the brand-new aluminum caliper. So I've got a bunch of new parts coming, including a new master cylinder... my favourite parts supplier doesn't have a rebuild kit listed. Probably an oversight on their part, but given how long express shipping takes from Ukraine (usually around two weeks) I didn't want to waste any time trying to save a few bucks. Here's to hoping everything ships out tomorrow. If all else fails, at least I'll be able to take the MJ and have the parts here to get the Niva back on the road when I get back. Assuming the MJ of course doesn't realize how much money I've been spending on the Niva this summer and get jealous and have a hissy fit...

Well, they definitely don't exist on a completely stock Canadian-market (doesn't really count as export) XJ with a d30 that isn't for sale, as per the ad. It was also visible in a couple of the front end pics.

Well, but if an update... It's been sitting in the same spot for over a month. Drove it home from work one day and lost brakes on all but one wheel. One of the callipers was leaking and the master cylinder took a big gulp of air So I parked it. Back in April, I ordered a new transmission for it from a Ukrainian company I've dealt with a bit Ladapower.com, great guys, good service, decent prices. After shipping, exchange, and everything, it worked out to just over $1000, so more than I paid for the Niva in the first place. As appropriate as it would've been to run the rally on 3/5 gears, things were getting pretty noisy with the remaining gears (synchros and bearings), and for whatever reason a new trans wasn't really all that much more than all the components I knew I needed (and all the ones I wouldn't have known I needed) so I went for it. It showed up regular mail in a gear-oil soaked cardboard box wrapped in a bunch of bubble wrap, but it seemed to have survived the trip. Also in case anyone wondered, filling a transmission that vents through the bellhousing without a bellhousing installed is in fact an open container of gear oil which will piss off lots of mail carriers on both sides of the ocean. Since the Niva was parked because of the brakes, I figured I'd put in the new trans, and it went in without a hitch. Only complaint when I was pulling the transfer case off is that the manual says to "support with one hand and remove the bolts". Russian mechanics must be made of sterner stuff than me, cause I can't balance and support a 65lb lump of awkwardly shaped greasy metal with only one hand. When it also said to do that with the transmission, I hopped in the MJ and went and got my trans jack. I've got a couple pics somewhere I'll have to upload later, had to replace my phone as well. So I took it for a test drive, and remembered I parked it because the brakes didn't work. Didn't make it through all the gears, but at least the new trans is more functional than the old. As to the brakes, the last guy broke off all the bleed nipples, so I'd ordered new wheel cylinders and callipers all around a while back, just hadn't got around to installing them. So I did that. Of course the hard lines twist off and break, because they're just solid lumps of rust at this point. So I order new lines (again from Ukraine because no one in North America carries Lada's fittings). They showed up on Friday, so I got everything installed over the weekend. Bled them all last night, and am now wondering if I'll even be able to take it for the Lemons rally, because they still don't work... I'm going to try bench bleeding the master cylinder, but if that doesn't solve it there's not enough time left to get parts shipped across the Atlantic before I have to leave.

Mine has factory A/C... and it works a treat. Pretty sure it still has R12 in it too. I bought a friend a DQ ice cream cake not long ago, and it's a 100km drive to the nearest DQ so I cranked the a/c all the way up for the drive there and back. Fortunately I thought ahead and brought my winter jacket... Got some weird looks getting out into the 30 degree heat, but the cake did not melt. Back on topic though, last fall when I was trying to part out my donor XJ, despite the fact I included the axle specs in the ad and also "front axle not for sale" (plan is to rebuild eventually for the MJ), someone contacted me wanting the XJ front d44. I got the worst piece of language back from him after I told him such a thing didn't exist, cause he knew they did and I was hiding it from him.

I'm going to say that the 25mpg runs were running downhill out of the mountains... I'm just jealous. Still haven't cracked 20mpg myself... maybe if there wasn't a massive magnet in my foot sucking it against the floor...

There's a chance it's both going bad (already bad in the box?) at once, but I might start thinking about potential issues with the front brake circuit, master cylinder, etc. It could be coincidence, but I'm not a big believer. Could also be you used an incorrect combination of parts, there were a couple changes over the years.

Can't guarantee it's identical between Renix and HO, but my '91 had the four-bolt flange originally, and the '93's downpipe fit perfectly. I picked one up specifically because it didn't have the flange.

Did you use stamped replacement rockers? If so, which ones and how well did they fit?

It looks like the bed's been narrowed a bit from a Ram 1500 shortbed. At least they're testing something... my guess is it's still in camo wrap because it's an ugly as sin Frankenstein that they don't want anyone seeing. I hope there's a two-door version. Can't say I'm a fan of crew cabs, and a JK unlimited with a truck bed would have a ridiculously long wheelbase.

Mitsubishi is a HUGE conglomerate that has a hand in pretty well every industry, from banking to real estate to consumer electronics, appliances, cars, aviation, mining, nuclear power... everything. You've probably got a whole bunch of their products in your home, at least as components of other things. Not bad for a company that started out in shipping.

Well, I was thinking the '93 fuse panel looked a little odd, and sure enough it's different from the one in my '91, so I may have sent you down the wrong rabbit hole there. A couple wiring diagrams I saw online mention an inline fuse holder, but that doesn't sound familiar to me. Not sure it's worth pulling everything apart again when what you've got is working now.

For some reason I want to say that the power for the radio doesn't actually come through the "radio" fuse. I'm going to go check the dash harness sitting in my basement.

I think this is normal, no? Maybe someone else can confirm, but I believe the main rear brake line goes through the height valve, and the other line only opens if there's a fault in the front brakes.

Isn't the '96 column still the same? Didn't think it changed until the '97+ facelift. But then '96 was the bastard year after all...

I think there's also one missing at the bottom, too. Mostly I was looking cause someone else mentioned it a while ago and it didn't look like you did anything. I was going to buy a shirt or two as well, but life just got in the way (also work's been short paying me for the last couple months) and I shouldn't be spending more money than absolutely necessary for a bit. Hopefully once everything gets sorted out.

It's a bit strange. Might be a Renix thing (?). My '91's speedometer does have mph on it as well (see below), so do both the XJ's ('92 and '93) I've owned. The picture's a couple years old now, it's up to 508,000 now ;) Another difference I'm noticing is that my 5000rpm mark is white, but DTA's is red. :dunno:

Have you ever filled it from completely empty? Like, right dry, without the couple gallons still in it when your light comes on...

^that should work just fine. Or you could just upgrade to the newer harness's connector and use the newer cps. When I swapped the '93 engine and trans into my '91, it didn't occur to me that the cps connector was different, and I just left the cps installed. Then when I went to plug the '93 CPS into the '91 harness, the two didn't match up. I couldn't figure out how to get tools onto the CPS once everything was installed, so I just swapped the connectors and it worked great. I couldn't tell you off the top of my head which connector I used, but obviously t worked. I think I also only had to match wire colours as well.

348,000 km isn't all that high. Just over 210,000 miles if my quick math checks out.

The top one in the photo is the speedometer, and your mechanical one should go right into where the electronic one goes. The bottom one is for the position sensor. Your factory cluster may or may not have provisions for the full-time light, but the harness will. The lights have constant power and the switch is on the ground side. As a heads up, with the cad-equipped 231 models the 4x4 switch (vacuum controlled, on a fender it the cad itself) has a ground and power wire (from the light) for the part-time, but the full-time switch (always on the t-case) has two power wires, one each for full- and party-time, and grounds internally. I can't remember exactly what I did, but it was not hard to get the electric 242 lights working with my CAD '91, I just don't have the full-time cluster installed.