gogmorgo

If the wires were melted together, wouldn't it just turn on the reverse lights? The reverse light switch is after all just a switch that opens and closes a circuit, the same way that a short might. Unless it's shorting straight to ground, in which case it's on a completely separate circuit so shouldn't blow the park fuse. It would blow the trans fuse if anything. That doesn't mean it isn't a symptom of something that doesn't also need addressed anyhow, I just can't see it being the problem at hand.

I'm not sure how relevant that picture is to the hitch itself. If you scroll down a bit there's another pic with the same SKU beside it, and it's much more normal-looking. If you scroll down even further, you'll see reviews of hitches for Ram's and Fusions, and all kinds of irrelevant things. Silly way to organize your site IMO, but JCW has more marketing experience than I've been alive, so... :dunno:

Sorry for dragging up an old thread here, but I'm sorta looking into getting these. Before I get caught in all the irrelevant details, my question is will the 24-188197 (front) and 33-185606 (rear) work at stock height? They have about 2" less compression than the stockers, which is why I'm concerned. Right now I'm at stock height, and (slowly... really slowly...) piecing together ~3" lift, and after research was thinking of going with Hornbrod's suggested. I just bought a new transmission for the Lada, so I figured I should treat the MJ before it gets jealous. (yes I know, don't mind me...). But it'll be quite a while before the lift is ready to go in, as I'm looking at pretty much complete suspension replacement, new links, springs, tires, axles/regear, everything, on a budget. But the MJ needs new shocks, so I was thinking of getting those now. But the stock shocks have a compressed length of ~13", and these new ones are ~15". Will the two inches less compression cause problems? I'd rather not mess around with bumpstops if I don't have to. The existing shocks aren't completely shot yet, so if these will be an issue, I think I'll just leave them alone until they're ready to get replaced along with everything else... I just found them at a small discount.

A battery should hold it's charge for longer than a couple weeks at a time... I left my Lada outside for a couple months this winter without starting it, and it didn't even crank over slowly. My MJ is good for over a month as well, and it still has the clock and stuff draining the charge when it sits.

Those are the ratings for the ko2, not the original ko. Tire rack rates the ko in the 8's on snow and a 7.2 on ice. And I'm pretty sure that's generous, given it seems like half the reviews seem to mistake it with the KO2. But yeah. Even in 4x4 I was struggling to keep the truck pointed in a straight line. It's an old-fashioned durable, rock-hard tire. Not great for cold weather. Night and day difference when I switched to the Grabber at2's.

That crossbar looks correct. But that mounting is nowhere close to okThat's cause it's a front hitch. It's been discussed already. No special speed limit for trailers up here. But the onus is on you to load it properly so there are no issues. 15 to 20% tongue weight or more if you want to do 75mph.

Is anything else in the dash not working, or just the lights?

Also looking at those tires, as they're pretty well the only ones I've found that say they meet my needs. But if they're anything like the original KO's, I'll be severely disappointed. Snow/ice performance is a pretty big deal for me. My MJ had the KO's on it when I bought it, and it was only a couple hours after the first snowfall that I got something better...

Check the dash ground, covered in one of Cruiser's tips. Not to be a smartass, but you did make sure the dimmer isn't dimmed all the way?

My first thought is it's downshifting. Could also be a thing with torque converter lockup. As to it running rich, a vacuum leak could do that to you, especially if it's causing inaccurate MAP readings.

It actually was surprisingly not bad when I had my hitch shipped back in December to the Great White North. I think it came in around US$270 after shipping, although the exchange rate was pretty awful at the time (and it still is) and I think it worked out to around CAD$380... But I would need to check the numbers.

^^ sounds like the Fey bumper. Doesn't look factory at all if you know what the factory one looks like... I picked up a lightly beat MJ bumper for $30 at a wrecker. Matches the aesthetic of the truck at least... If you're planning on towing you should look into Krusty's hitch. Check the vendors section.

Factory tow package is a d44/aw4 combo, rated at 5000lbs. You could more than likely get away with putting two dirtbikes in the bed...

That box is the ECU... Probably not great that it's humming. Which pin on the relay is the wire going to? Could be trying to put power to either the fuse or fuel pump. Looking at those two wires twisted together with the marette, I suspect he was having fuel pump issues he was trying to correct. I'm pretty sure those are the wires for the fuel pump ballast resistor.

A bus bar is basically a big terminal (generally a chunk of metal like copper or brass) that you hook everything up to. It works, but isn't always the best to implement, given that you now need some form of insulated mount to keep it from shorting out on the body. One thing that's common is an aftermarket fuse panel. Mount it somewhere like the firewall (inside or outside) and run one wire from the battery to it, and then run all your accessories from there. If you want a cleaner, oem sort of look, especially if you've got all these accessories running on relays, is a power distribution centre, like the relay block under your hood. Just grab another one in good shape at a junkyard, get all the relays and everything with it, and leave nice long tails on all the wires for proper splicing. Doesn't even really need to be out of a jeep, if you can find one with more slots in something else...

I might be concerned that in doing that you'd significantly reduce its reflectivity enough that it might no longer be effective. A ceramic coated (or even exhaust-wrapped header that doesn't radiate heat would be as effective if not more so than the heat shield, as it would also reduce the negative effects of heat elsewhere in the the engine bay. But at the same time it's also much more expensive, or a much bigger PITA/uglier solution in the case of the exhaust wrap, than leaving it as is...

When considering the "best" option, the engineers also have to consider cost. The factory coil won't be a significant enough decrease in performance over a "performance" coil that the average person would notice or care, but the extra cost of production, even at just $1 per coil, in the volume that Jeeps with said coil were produced, could save several million for the company. Sure, one component at 1 or 2 dollars more, pass the cost along to the customers, but if you do that for every component of the vehicle, you're producing vehicles at a higher price than your competitors, and unless you put in significantly better/more expensive components, you end up with a product that really isn't any better than the competition but still costs much more, that could possibly reduce reliability (parts making more power put greater stress on other components or else adds weight which negates some or all of the performance gains) and ultimately loses customers. Any company is in there for profit. If they built cars that last forever, they eventually would run out of customers. If they built expensive cars that aren't much better than the competition, they lose customers. You, presumably the end user, can make your own decisions, whether you want to spend the extra to add performance. Just don't expect the coil individually to be noticeable to the butt-dyno. But combine it with a bunch of other tiny gains, and you just might start noticing.

You could pull it off and see what happens, but I'm pretty certain the HO's did have a heat soak issue, especially the later years. If there wasn't a recall there was at least a TSB.

The way the 4x4 lights (both of them) work is that the lights have constant power, and the grounds are switched. So you likely have a short somewhere. On my '91 aw4/231, the wires are part of the transmission solenoid harness. The white one in this pic: Looks like this on the inside. The two lights for the 242 are the pair opposite the single one. Here's the wiring diagram portion on the 4x4 light, if you can figure it out.

I imagine you could just put new spider gears into the old carrier, which I'm thinking would mean you wouldn't need to set up the gears again. And obviously the new shafts. Probably also wheel bearings for the larger shafts as well?

Okay, my bad. I guess my memory isn't as great as I thought it was, and I confused myself. But I've refreshed it a little. These sources helped me: http://www.weatherlover1.com/jeep/242.htm http://comancheclub.com/topic/48509-4wd-dummy-light-question/ The second one I put together to kinda help answer someone else's question... not sure it did though. But my memory was fresher and I'm borrowing my own pictures. This is the connector we're looking at under the hood, on the trans dipstick tube or thereabouts. It's the white one, not the black one for the NSS. If you follow the wires down the side, you'll find they split into two segments, one for the shift solenoids and the other for non-CAD T-cases. That's this connector that you plugged into on the side of the trans: Using my volt meter, I got continuity between those two pins and the connector up at the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube connector has seven pins, three pairs and one single: The two wires have continuity with the pair opposite the single end. But that may not matter... Going back up to the first source I quoted, and like I mentioned above, the 4x4 light(s) has constant power to the bulb, and a switched ground. Going back to the connector on the side of the trans, one of the wires is for the part-time light and the other is for the full-time light. If you ground either of them, it should turn on that respective bulb... although you likely don't have the full-time bulb installed. The 242's electric t-case switch grounds each wire. I'm not sure what the 231's does, but it may have to ground itself to an outside source? The CAD-equipped 4x4 lights were actually grounded by a vacuum switch. In my '91 it's on the CAD-housing itself, but I've been informed that it's somewhere else on Renix MJ's, but I can't remember where. I think I remember pulling wires and/or vacuum lines out of the 91 AW4's loom, but the continuity was still there after it's been pulled apart. The more I think about it, the more I'm confident my harness hackery was just to get the speedometer working, and the 4x4 lights were actually just plug-and-play, which may be why I can't remember what I did. I put in the aw4/242 as a combo and never separated their harnesses, just used the '93 AW4's harness and plugged it directly into my '91 MJ's harness, with the two connectors at the dipstick tube...

I'd have to get underneath and crawl around to remember where all the connectors go, but when I swapped the '93 4.0/aw4/242 into my '91, I had to go through all this stuff. But what I do remember is that there were two connectors at the dipstick tube. One was for the trans itself, and I want to say the other was for both the tcase and speedometer wires. But on the CAD-equipped '91, the wires for the shifter light split off from the harness somewhere in there and follow the vacuum lines to the CAD. The shifter light works on a switched ground, so if the other end of those wires isn't grounded, the shifter light won't work, even if everything is hooked up properly. I kinda hacked the harnesses together to get the tcase wiring to play nice with the truck, but again I'd have to crawl around to figure out exactly what I did. That's probably more info than you were asking for...

That may not apply if you're changing control arm length? But worth a shot I guess.

With the trackbar attached, the axle only moves left and right as it's moving respectively down and up. Try putting a jack under it, see what happens.

The wheels can't turn relative to the dolly, but that doesn't mean they won't turn relative to the rest if the towed vehicle. It's not like the rear wheels and dolly wheels are moving through the same radius when you're going around corners.