Nofeartoys

Also is this issue worse when warmed up ,compared to first driving? Possible plugged exhaust i.e. Cat. I had debris in my fuel rail and my MJ would idle fine and have power at start but limited power driving and when pushing throttle down seem to lose power. Fuel pressure was good but if I watch guage and revved engine hard I would see pressure drop. Maybe drive with fuel gauge taped to windshield to watch pressure..( fuel pressure is only half. Fuel volume is other part)

Yes there a kit to block test for hydrocarbons in cooling system . I'm sure a local auto parts store has it. Test should be like Start engine and let run with cap open with the kit (looks like turkey baster / test tube put together. Fill tube with special fluid and you pull air from cooling system through the tool and fluid. If the fluid changes color it means there is HC in cooling system.. Make sure not to suck coolant into mixture as it will give flash readings...kit should be called a block tester. Kit may come with test fluid there are several kits on Amazon also

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=121989139241&globalID=EBAY-US One for sale on eBay kick panel style

Just an update on the mj. Tested several time find good fuel pressure at idle but under load pressure would drop after two fuel filters and Delphi new Cherokee pump ( noisey and fuel gauge reversed. Still same issue. Installed bosch fuel pump onto mj fuel pump brackets assembly and cleaned debris from tank. ( much quieter and guage correct). Still had issue finally I removed inlet hose to fuel rail to test fuel volume going into rail. Found low volume ( partial 16 ounce water bottle with key cycle). I happened to look into fuel hose quick connect to find debris in hose. Used coat handle and loosed up debris. Put water bottle back onto hose and cycled key again. And found debris now in bottle including some bug which looked like a popcorn kernel ..reassembled and roadtested truck. Now vehicle has power under load. Yikes. The drama is gone finally.

The difference between a one hole injector (garden hose stream). Compared to a 4 hole injector ( mister spray ). The misting effect allows the majority of the fuel to burn. Yes the computer adjusts the air/fuel mixture by reading the amount of oxygen in exhaust system using to oxygen sensor. You may or may or physically notice anything but in my opinion every little bit helps in the long run.. If you are going to injector swap shop around. The prices vary a lot . I just watch a video on utube when tests few different injectors 24lb,22lb and 19lb. And shows different in scanner and smog info pretty cool info. .. I just got a set of 6,rebuilt ev1 connector (renix) 19lb bosch III all flushed and cleaned and tested for $54 free shipping. So look around on eBay

I posted in DIY section on this site with my headliner design. Using a piece of plywood. It came out pretty good. Material can be purchased on eBay in various colors. I choose dark grey

I was curious if anyone has used a performance coil on a approx year 88 4.0. I'm trying to get more info from Holley/accel waiting info. Appears that some coils look similar. For gm and possibly Volvo Don't see why they haven't made a hei coil to apply. Let me know if you know something. And I will relay info from Holley when they reply

Thx for fixing pics. I use iPad. Don't use a computer Yes it's a ongoing rebuild. But prob. Could have put in diy.

My MJ didn't come with a headliner like many other jeeps.The options are very low in this area of Comanche rebuild. Here is my way of doing mine repair. What I decided was to make a piece of wood fit in the indent channel of headliner area .I first made a piece out of 1/8 ish paneling to fit in the area and fastened to roof of the jeep along the lip (which has clearance to outside sheet metal). But after few days in mild temp that wood warped,good thing I didn't put Fabric on yet. So I trashed that and shaped a piece of 3/8 plywood to fit vehicle roof area. after getting proper fit and sanded wood I mounted my purchased dark grey headliner material . leaving 3in extra on sides 5 in front and 3 in rear past the edge of wood to glue to body and fill gaps. I mounted wood with fabrics to MJ cab with screw in locations where screw wouldn't touch outside roof sheet metal. I purchased screw cover patched from shelving isle at hardware store to help limit bulges in liner. Now gluing and trimming extra side fabric around cab I also made fillin panels for sides about 3 in wide and covered in same fabric and mounted behind trim panels. Using original metal clips on side to hold fill panels ground down visor mounts to help with gape ... Hopefully I did images right still learning

1988 sport truck Red SWB Original setup 4.0l ,manual 4x4. A/c. Manual locks,Windows mile 114k sold in Auburn,ca. Saved from salvage yard April 2016, sold to yard after sitting several Years with eng disassembled in bed Had salvage yard install used 89 4.0l and convert to auto trans (floor shifter) still 4x4 Vehicle in driver condition and currently rebuilding and repairing to make it a reliable truck. Eliminated c101 firewall connector,cleaned and added several of grounds New tps,timing chain,seals and gasket. Inc rear main. Hand made headliner installed 2 inch budget Lift kit. (. Add-a leaf and front spring spacer) Currently vehicle in Central Valley Calif.

Not sure if you found some or not..Amazon sells a budget 2 in lift kit. Which has add-leaf. And front spacers. For 79$.

Jcr makes a upgrade spacer for steering box also. $49 plus shipping http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/XJSTSPC_405x270.jpg

Some info off the top of my head and looking at a early xj heater box diagram. First do you hear a vac leak in dash area? Second need to check operation of door actuator for defrost door. According to xj diagram on left side of heater box. Maybe just kicked actuator rod off of the door. I know on dodge trucks. Defrost mode is default if vac lost https://imgur.com/a/K7zCH Is vac diagram I found. ( blue and green go to defrost door) If cable driven actuator move mode slider on control head and watch door actuator to if cable system working

Thank you both for replies..The tailamp was already cleaned Recleaned eyelet and reinstalled ground. Went under vehicle and made new ground to fuel pump harness and secured to clean new frame mount.. Cutout out old splices for sensor grounds for injectors and map,tps,intake temp etc and soldered their groups together. Added extra Grounds to those circuits also. (Lol over kill ) verified tps at adjustment (ok .84 v ) cleaned all connectors and contacts for coil pack.My truck did have some erratic sensor voltages when harness wiggle test preformed.. Thank you mj tech forum for all help and info. Appears main issue was crappy fuel pump and high resistance is ballast. Causing low volume fuel,system. Drove vehicle today to find good power and able to spin tires. (Ballast still bypassed. Until I get new one then will recheck.. Vehicle will be getting ballast and fuel regulator and tps to give me piece of mind and known new parts ,since vehicle history is unknown to me..Also I will been doing injector upgrade sometime in near future..The only thing i knew about this truck was it sat for few year due to disassembled engine.

Thank you hornbrod for voltage readings of the ballast good info. And I will take yours and cruiser advise and clean tailamp area ground and also will add ground near fuel pump connector.