gogmorgo

Just don't expect it to solve your bump-start "issue"...

My MJ has nothing. I've been debating putting switches in like you say, but at the same time I don't think I'd want someone breaking in and damaging things attempting to get it started, I'd rather they just took it and hope they didn't wreck it too bad. I've thought about trying to set up a GPS tracker or something that would let me know where it was if that did happen, hopefully so it could get tracked down quickly before anything too bad happened.

Can't speak for every part of this country, but out my way vehicle thefts are mostly perpetrated by joyriding teens. Victims get bagged till they get wrecked and ditched, or torched when they hit their curfew. They recognize easy and/or fun marks to steal, and keep coming back to the same ones. It got so bad our crown-corp insurance co. started requiring that "most at risk" vehicles be equipped with an immobiliser at their expense, or they wouldn't insure it. XJ's were top if the list unfortunately, with 1/6 registered in the province having been stolen at some point.

Mm. The couple times I tried on flat ground even with a buddy pushing it didn't work out in the Lada. It almost always came down to just pushing it to a hill if there wasn't another vehicle around to assist. Fortunately hills aren't too hard to find, just run down into the ditch, lol. Even a Renix fuel injection system is better in every measurable way than a carb. You'd definitely be making steps backwards by getting rid of it.

I've yet to see that in my area. Maybe around the city, but you'll get your @$$ handed to you if you try to take that onto the highway, which the op is inevitably going to be doing. Also, many people successfully perform snatch recoveries with a chain over a tow ball. Doesn't mean it's the right way to do it...

I'll admit there is a learning curve to it, and at least the 4.0 Renixes need a few cranks to sort themselves out before they fire up, so that could be it. But I'm by no means an expert on Renix systems. As to my Lada, yeah it's got the setup for it, the hole in the bumper and ratcheting crank nut (really just a regular nut with funky slots cut in it), but the crank handle and the rest of the tool kit was long gone by the time I got it. Haven't been able to source another handle to attempt the crank start, but it's something I'm keeping an eye out for. But it's true it doesn't seem like it takes much to get it started. I once left my lights on all day at work at -30, by coincidence the day I blew the line from the clutch master cylinder on the way to work, and there was still enough juice left in the battery to start it in gear.

Looks like it could have been a lot worse... you still have four tires holding air. Depending on how hot they got the heat treating in the trans and t-case components could be negatively affect. There's a chance as well the fire could have gone into the shifter boot and turned the trans into an oil lamp I suppose. If you drop the fluids out and they don't look burnt they may have survived. Same for the motor, although it'll need new seals and it'll be a bugger to get all the scorched plastic off it. The bed looks like it lost a lot of paint up by the cab, which could always be fixed, but the metal may have gotten brittle from the fire. I think I'd leave the front bumper or the seat brackets for that reason, but the bed's in pretty decent shape over all. Looks like the rest of the MJ back end stuff is all still good, which is definitely a plus, including all the metric ton stuff, less the window sticker(?). Definitely a lot of good parts left on it. If it was mine I would try to get it back, strip it down, and then get rid of it quickly before I got too angry from looking at it. People suck. :( Hope they caught the a$$hole.

What gear are you going for? The starter doesn't crank it over all that fast, so it shouldn't need to turn too quickly. Can't say I've ever bump started a Renix Jeep, but my Lada doesn't need much speed to get it running... The slope in my back yard only drops two or three feet over three car lengths, and from the top to the bottom was enough to start it every day for three weeks while I waited for a new starter to ship from Europe. But back to your situation. Standard fare 2.5L/AX4, 4.10 ratio axles, 27" tire. At 5 mph, you'll be turning around 370 rpm in 3rd, 600 rpm in second. First is probably too low (pretty tall trying to push back the other way) but you'd be looking at 1000 rpm. How's that for overthinking a bump start? At 5mph I might go for second, but I think most sources would recommend 3rd. Once you're rolling, don't just dump the clutch, bring the engine up to speed slowly, pretty much the same way you would taking off from a stop... it's basically the same thing, you're just using the the car to start the engine moving instead of the other way around. Giving it some throttle may help to avoid the engine-brakey feel/speed loss, then get the clutch back in once it seems like it's going and step on the throttle so it doesn't stall out. Now I need to ask why you need to bump start your truck..? A reman starter isn't all that expensive, a rebuild kit is cheap, and you could likely get a working one at a yard for not too much either.

There's a thread or two pinned in the "testing" forum that'll help you with pictures. I would actually recommend against using photobucket (it's caused me nothing but headaches although many members use it with reasonable success) and there's a couple other recommendations further along in that same thread.

Most tow trucks don't carry a truck for a three hour drive. And there are plenty of videos in YouTube of reverse-towed vehicles on the hook going cattywampus and smashing into things on the side of the road. If a tow truck tried to hook up to the back of any vehicle I own I would send him packing and call another company. But that's beside the point and we're getting way off topic. OP should be fine with a dolly, and all he needs to take out the driveshaft is an 8mm socket/wrench for the driveshaft bolts, and either wire to tie it up or something to stuff in the trans output. I've dollied vehicles 200+ miles at a time with a rag ziptied in the back of the trans with no issues, just the way the OP plans. :thumbsup:

Whether it dies or not, you're probably going to have oil pressure issues running it that low. Why would you want it to run below 300 rpm?

I'm pretty sure my Lada never got clear coat... That or it's ALL peeled off. The paint is pretty faded but there's no flaking anywhere :dunno: Apart from where the paint itself DNE because of rust, obviously.

Yeah, my comment was based on the OP saying the axle was from a MY2000 XJ. My 8.25's out of an '03 four-cyl KJ, but it's not under the truck yet. Need to find/make a matching 4.10 D30 and piece together my lift first.

But then you'd be relying on the steering lock pin/plate to keep it pointed in a straight line... not exactly ideal.

4.5" should be more than good for 33's. 32's fit at stock height with minimal rubbing. As to running 33's on the 8.25, I think you should be good. It's loosely what I'm planning on.

Should be all you need in a regular socket set. Might want a wrench set too as sometimes those bolts don't have much clearance. I've found that some aftermarket bolts may be 5/16 instead of 8mm, but maybe that's just me being useless. Unless you already have the dolly, I would recommend a full trailer instead. They just pull so much better and makes for not having to worry about leaving half the vehicle on the ground. Especially a 2wd LWB if it's sagged much the rear bumper is pretty close to the ground once the front wheels are up in the air.

Well, it did do $8900 damage to the other car...

For YouTube videos, just post the url directly into the post. Don't do anything fancy to it, the forum takes care of it automatically. For posting photos, there's a pinned how-to thread in the "testing" forum. It initially suggests using photobucket, but I would recommend avoid photobucket. There are many less-frustrating image hosts out there.

Can rubber bushings corrode?

My original clear coat isn't great, either. I can tell where the $#!&ty faded blurple respray a PO had done is flaking off...

My '91 MJ's driveshaft was a perfect fit when I swapped in the '93 242. As far as I know, the 231 and 242 have the same output/ds yoke, but the difference stems from the later ('96+?) sealed output style shafts vs the earlier one, so a 242 and 231 will have the same outputs, as long as both are early or both are later.

I was gonna say, ice racing is usually a pretty good way to incur body damage... but that was not how I expected it to happen. Glad to gear everyone's okay.

There was one on here that I'm remembering... it got painted orange. Don't remember who the perpetrator was.

The stock intake is pretty well already a cold-air intake, pulling air from behind the headlight, not the hot engine bay. With the fancy k&n setups, the biggest benignity you'll see is down to the better-flowing ducting, and as was said you won't benefit much without other modifications to let you use the extra air. Also you'll mostly notice the benefit at or near WOT, so if you don't ever use that last quarter of the skinny pedal's travel, you won't notice much difference.

Took it out the other day to get some pics to send along to the LeMons guys. She's pumping oil out of the trans pretty good, so I'm going to have to order a bunch more parts again, if at least just a trans seal kit. Hopefully everything I missed the first time around...