Must have MJ upgrades for a cross country drive?

[jazzyjeeper]

Hi folks, I'm a fairly new MJ owner. My dear one is a 1989 2wd Eliminator with around 130,000 miles. I am moving out of LA next month and am curious if it is ridiculously optimistic to think that I could drive my truck across the country in August. I know this depends on the condition of the vehicle, but I thought I would ask if anyone has input on must have upgrades for this kind of trip? Replace the radiator?

I've looked into towing but I'd rather put money into improving the truck than dump cash into a one-time service, if driving could be a realistic option. I'm aiming to arrive on the east coast by a certain date but can plan at least a week or even more for the drive as of now. So far I've only gone on short drives, and when I got up to 45 mph or higher there was quite a wobble. The tires definitely need to be replaced. 

These are the new upgrades made on the truck since I got it:

catalytic converter 

crankshaft pulley 

drive belt 

spark plugs and cables 

distributor cap and rotor 

valve cover gasket 

freeze plugs 

front brakes

rotors

I'm a noob so any feedback is welcome.  Thanks!
 

[Pete M]

radiator and hoses would be on my list.  maybe even the water pump too since they are pretty cheap. 

[Dzimm]

A stock MJ in good running order would have no problems doing it.  You need to go through and service everything, inspect and replace any bad joints/bearings in the front end.  As you say you have a wobble, you should probably just plan on replacing all the joints and bearings up front so it's done and you don't have to worry about it.  Do ALL of Cruiser's tips as well as replace all fluids if you haven't already.

 

I personally would be going through absolutely everything I could on the truck before the trip and bring tools with you just in case.  Also would highly recommend having a contingency plan in place in case you break down.  Driving it would be my first choice as well, the money you spend on the truck rather than a tow/transport service will be a much better investment.  

[Minuit]

I drove my MJ from Tennessee to Pennsylvania and back last year and had absolutely no issues whatsoever. I didn't take breaks and only stopped for gas and food. About 1600 miles in a weekend.

 

The key to it is to make sure you can be confident in the truck. Give everything that could break a once-over. Check every fluid, change if necessary. Make sure every single hose on the entire truck is in good condition and that all the clamps are tight. Check the u-joints for any rust dust around where they spin. Make sure the belt is in good shape, tensioned properly, and that all the pulleys rotate smoothly and without wobbling. Check all of your wheel nuts and make sure they're tight. Make sure the brakes are in good condition.

 

A properly serviced MJ in "confidence inspiring" condition should have absolutely no issue whatsoever driving for as long as you need.

[MiNi Beast]

Just run it and fix it along the way. You will learn what you need along the trip. 

[tugboat95]

Depends on the vehicle. Is it dependable mechanically? If yes then update all normal services, new belts, are hoses in good order? Good battery. You say it has a shimmy. Check and replace all ball joints and tie rod bushings etc.

 

Different vehicle but, Last year I drove my 99 Suburban from NC to Seattle thru South Dakota then back thru Utah and Texas. The three years before that I had replaced the engine, all new ball joints and everything rubber. New shocks, new rear end and new front end/steering. New brakes, not just pads, all new brake system. New stereo also.

 

As part of the trip I took a spare belt, air compressor, new spare tire, complete tool set, installed a new battery, distributor cap, and rotor. I took a set of plug wires just because I had them. Some spare wire and butt connectors. In Nebraska I had to locate and install new wiring plug for the MAF sensor. Coming home in Tennessee I had to install a new throttle position sensor. Soon after getting home a new coil, all three were reused from old engine. Inspect your wiring. That was my biggest issue. It's old and brittle.. Also look hard at all those vacuum lines and all the little rubber boots that connect them to things. Also I went offroading in Utah and lots of places in Wyoming and Montana do not have cell coverage. I rented a satellite phone from Verizon. Just in case. You can rent by the month or the week. Although if more than a month it's cheaper to buy one.

 

89 Comanche

Eliminator

2wd

4.0L

5 speed PukeGoat

Factory Original

 

 

 

 

 

[tugboat95]

By the way it was a heck of a trip. A week in Moab led me to sell the Burb (which I loved) and buy the Comanche. It will eventually see Moab as well.

89 Comanche
Eliminator
2wd
4.0L
5 speed PukeGoat
Factory Original

[89 MJ]

All of the above, plus putting your grill the right way (its upside down). 

[rokinn]

A lot of things to consider for this type of trip with a relatively unknown vehicle and not a great deal of time to do what might need to be done especially if you're doing it yourself.  You might consider a pre-purchase type of evaluation from a reputable shop to help prioritize what you want to do and in what order.  Cooling system is a biggy.  Hoses, see if the water pump is weeping.  If you're going to do the radiator then definitely the pump, hoses, dealer thermostat.  I would do a 91 thermostat housing with a 3/8ths npt brass plug in the hole for the temp switch.  Makes bleeding the air much easier.  Make sure it cools properly before heading out.  

 

Front end and existing wobble would be another job to tackle before as well.  Make sure the tie rods ends are solid.  Look for rust along the edges of the lower ball joint seals.  If the truck has had good servicing the uppers will likely be in reasonably good condition.  New tires would be highly recommended and an alignment.  Check the shocks.  Make sure the steering damper is tight on both ends, axle side hole is prone to wallowing out.  Wheel bearings checked/packed or replaced.  Check the U joints on the drive shaft for play as already stated.

 

Let us know how things progress.  Good luck.

 

 

[OldManComanche]

 

Have you driven the truck enough to have confidence it will make the trip?  Take a 2 hour drive at highway speed to sort out. 

 

Get the tires and death wobble fixed. If you haven't changed the fuel filter, do it (or at least take one with you)

 

Take all of the tools you own with you including a good jack. If you need a tool you don't have,(while on the road) remember Harbor Freight or loaner from auto parts store.

 

Use the interstate system to travel on so that you will have plenty of towns with auto parts stores if you need parts.  

 

 I think your biggest concern is the heat you will travel through to get to the east coast. If you have heat problems, you can drive at night.

 

 

 

 

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

My own personal xp:

 

I bought my MJ sight unseen, knowing it had been sitting for three years. The person I bought it from put in a battery and balanced the tires. I flew in and drove it home, about 1200 miles.

 

My first stop once hitting the road was Orielleys. Bought a full set of tools, a mini fire extinguisher, a 5 gallon gas can, and some random fluids. However, it drove home with no issues. I was probably very lucky, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it all over again. *shrug* YMMV Like MiniBeast says, you will learn everything you need to know about the vehicle on the way. Necessity is a great prompter for fast learning.

[Wounded_Fighter]

Obvious must have upgrade. 

Cupholder.

[schardein]

Once you nail down a schedule and route, post it on a new thread here at Comanche Club.  

Members along your route may be willing to provide a place to spend the night and roadside assistance in the case an issue arises.

 

With that said, I would inspect your front suspension.  The appearance of your front bumper suggests it took a pretty good hit.  There is a vacuum reservoir mounted to the backside of the front bumper on the passenger side.  I would check the condition of the reservoir and it's lines.  A vacuum leak there will affect how the engine runs.  If you don't have the knowledge to inspect everything on the front suspension, I would take it to a trusted professional.

[jazzyjeeper]

This is all amazing advice! Fun to hear about everyone's long distance adventures. What's life without a little risk right?   

 

I definitely need to drive the truck more and put more work into it before I can be confident in it but I think all the points made here give me a good starting point. Going to compile a list of components to upgrade and a list of things to bring on the road. Will share my progress and itinerary once I plan it out, thank you for the tips everyone! 

 

[jazzyjeeper]

Updates on the long haul preparations! Got the truck back from my mechanic, he replaced the following:

- front upper and lower ball joints

- radiator

- water pump

- upper and lower radiator hoses

- inner and outer tie rod ends

- thermostat

- thermostat gasket

- coolant

- fuel filter

- front and rear shocks

- mounted and balanced my new Dextero DHT2 tires

 

Taking it to an auto electrician tomorrow to troubleshoot the windshield wiper motor and inspect the wiring.

 

When I drove it today the steering felt a little loose/floaty to me, but my friend who owned it previously said that's how it's always driven and he thought it was normal. I did ask my mechanic to check that the steering damper was tight on both ends. Maybe the steering just handles differently than the other cars I'm used to?

[omega_rugal]

8 hours ago, jazzyjeeper said:

When I drove it today the steering felt a little loose/floaty to me, but my friend who owned it previously said that's how it's always driven and he thought it was normal. I did ask my mechanic to check that the steering damper was tight on both ends. Maybe the steering just handles differently than the other cars I'm used to?

 

the steering box is a little loose due wear... check this video

 

 

WARNING

 

mark the starting point with liquid eraser, do it in small steps, 10 degrees of a turn, do a test drive, a few more and test, the bolt must never get tight, this is a common mistake most people make, if the bolt refuses to turn, stop and turn it back. if after an adjustment the steering wheel feels stiff it means you went too far, loose it a few degrees.

 

steering boxes wear down overtime and this fix must be done a few times during its life span, if you go beyond 45 degrees and nothing improves then the box must be replaced or rebuilt

[Pete M]

9 hours ago, jazzyjeeper said:

 Maybe the steering just handles differently than the other cars I'm used to?

 

 

it's a 30 year old truck with a solid front axle.  It'll never be a modern car with IFS and rack-n-pinion.   

[eaglescout526]

36 minutes ago, omega_rugal said:

steering boxes wear down overtime and this fix must be done a few times during its life span, if you go beyond 45 degrees and nothing improves then the box must be replaced or rebuilt

 

This. I adjusted my box as I was installing AC and it made no difference until I swapped in a ZJ box.

[DesertRat1991]

Installing OEM cruise control was the best road trip upgrade that I've performed. It makes a long haul in these cable throttle trucks much more comfortable. 

 

Other than that, a well maintained vehicle is important.  A kit bag full of spare parts is only helpful if you have the know-how (and personal interest?) to swap them out yourself.  If not, then sign up for a AAA membership before you head out. 

 

Good luck!  Take pics!

[jazzyjeeper]

On 8/6/2020 at 7:20 AM, omega_rugal said:

steering boxes wear down overtime and this fix must be done a few times during its life span, if you go beyond 45 degrees and nothing improves then the box must be replaced or rebuilt

 

Good to know! Checking on the steering box.

 

 

On 8/6/2020 at 7:39 AM, Pete M said:

it's a 30 year old truck with a solid front axle.  It'll never be a modern car with IFS and rack-n-pinion.   

 

Totally! 

 

 

 

On 8/6/2020 at 7:35 PM, DesertRat1991 said:

Installing OEM cruise control was the best road trip upgrade that I've performed. It makes a long haul in these cable throttle trucks much more comfortable. 

 

Other than that, a well maintained vehicle is important.  A kit bag full of spare parts is only helpful if you have the know-how (and personal interest?) to swap them out yourself.  If not, then sign up for a AAA membership before you head out. 

 

Good luck!  Take pics!

 

I just upgraded my AAA membership to premium    I am interested in doing more of the work myself in the future, with time hopefully I'll gain the know-how.

 

 

On 7/6/2020 at 9:10 PM, Dzimm said:

Do ALL of Cruiser's tips as well as replace all fluids if you haven't already.

 

I've been a little overwhelmed by Cruiser's tips. I don't know my way around under the hood so I'm not really sure how to start. Anyone in the LA area want to mentor me on this? Can supply beers!

 

 

Some other additions I'm trying to fit in are a new radio, going to try to add an aux to it with a kit from @Minuit (very helpful information on all the radios, thank you!!), also a camper shell, and a bench seat. I found an s10 shortbed topper for sale for $550... would be cool to find one cheaper but will see. I now have 18 days before I hit the road! 

[jazzyjeeper]

One other thing- there is an over rail truck bed liner currently on. I have to remove this in order to put on a camper shell right?

[Dzimm]

57 minutes ago, jazzyjeeper said:

I've been a little overwhelmed by Cruiser's tips. I don't know my way around under the hood so I'm not really sure how to start. Anyone in the LA area want to mentor me on this? Can supply beers!

If you aren't quite familiar yet with what's under the hood, grab a factory service manual (NOT a Chilton or Haynes, while these are helpful to have around, they are no where near as accurate and useful as an FSM).  Otherwise as you go through Cruiser's tips if you come across something you don't know about, Google it for pictures and info.  It's usually going to be more helpful to search under XJ rather than MJ as there is more info out there for an XJ but it's the same under the hood.

 

You'll definitely want to be very familiar with what's all under the hood and what everything does before your trip.

[Pete M]

37 minutes ago, jazzyjeeper said:

One other thing- there is an over rail truck bed liner currently on. I have to remove this in order to put on a camper shell right?

 

 

I put my camper shell right on the liner.   but the liner has holes cut for the clamps. 

 

 

[jazzyjeeper]

12 hours ago, Dzimm said:

If you aren't quite familiar yet with what's under the hood, grab a factory service manual (NOT a Chilton or Haynes, while these are helpful to have around, they are no where near as accurate and useful as an FSM).  Otherwise as you go through Cruiser's tips if you come across something you don't know about, Google it for pictures and info.  It's usually going to be more helpful to search under XJ rather than MJ as there is more info out there for an XJ but it's the same under the hood.

 

You'll definitely want to be very familiar with what's all under the hood and what everything does before your trip.

 

I do have the factory service manual, so that will be helpful. It's a lot of information   Will try to break it down and google! Found a few helpful videos already. Thanks for the tip.

 

 

12 hours ago, Pete M said:

I put my camper shell right on the liner.   but the liner has holes cut for the clamps. 

 

Nice!

[Minuit]

 

Seems like you're on your way to having things figured out. As the resident neeeeeeerd of the group, I'll use my turn to emphasize the electrical side of things. Relying on other people for your maintenance will get painfully expensive in a hurry, and doing it yourself is much more educational and fun... if you can do things in a safe manner. Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Get an incandescent test light too - they're incredibly useful, and dirt cheap. I like my fancy Fluke and Tektronix toys, but the cheapo multimeter you can get with a battery for like $5 from Harbor Freight or your regional equivalent will be perfectly serviceable for automotive use. Just, whatever you do, don't ever probe anything much higher than 12V with one of those Harbor Freight meters. They have next to no protection for high voltage or current.

 

A lot of electrical diagnosis on a truck this old boils down to "is this part getting 12V on one side and a low resistance connection to ground on the other?" or "is this switch/corroded connector making a good connection or is it causing voltage drops?" or "I am missing power or ground to this part. Where does it go away?" - even the crappiest multimeter can tell you that. A light bulb on a stick can tell you that 75% of the time. Study up on some basic electrical theory so you have a foundation to build on, and then go down Cruiser's Tips refreshing connections and fixing AMC's weird thoughts on electrical design. Does the FSM you have include the book with the wiring diagrams? You'll need those at some point.