Jump to content

OldManComanche

Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About OldManComanche

  • Rank
    Jeeper

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Would it be a door opener control for The Bat Cave
  2. Are you talking about manufacture advertised fuel economy or is this the mileage you are getting on 2 trucks you have or know of??
  3. Glad to hear it, but I would wait till after a few more drives to celebrate. If everything is good then enjoy it!
  4. Drive the truck till the problem shows up. Crawl underneath and unplug the speed sensor at the transfer case and try driving it. Does the problem go away? Good Luck!
  5. You say that the speedo started bouncing again and your problem came back, maybe there is a link. Is the speedo cable driven or electric sender? You might try to unhook it and see if your problem goes away. You might also try driving in a lower gear at 2500 + RPM to see if the problem shows back up. This might tell you if it is a speed sensing problem (I doubt it), I would guess the ECU thinks the engine is over revving. 200 MPH REALLY?? I have a 1990 YJ Jeep. The original 4.2 I6 with carb had been replaced with a 97 HO I6. When I bought it it would barely run. Someone had done a half way installation, (kinda like your deal) of the Painless System. I cut it out and started over, (with the phone help of the guys at Painless). Now my Jeep runs like a fire truck on fire! But there was plenty of PAIN to get there!
  6. What about pulling fuses out 1 at a time to see if you could isolate a circuit causing the problem. The wiring on all of the 3 Comanches I have had came with hacked up wiring.
  7. I too had similar problems with the clutch not releasing after all new parts (pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, and plastic bushing on the pedal end of the pushrod). I found that removing the carpet would allow the clutch to fully disengage. I made the pushrod adjustable and problem was solved. I found that adjusting the pushrod about 5mm longer gave me a clutch engagement at about half pedal travel. (89 Pioneer, 4.0, AX15 4x4)
  8. When the transmission oil is cold and thick, it will act as a brake and stop the gears from turning in the transmission. This makes it easier to shift into gear. After you drive a bit, the oil thins and the gears want to keep turning. I actually made my clutch rod adjustable when I added length to it. I don't know what the root cause of the problem is, but I would guess that the replacement clutch components you can buy today are slightly different from original.
  9. I had a similar problem with my 1989 4.0 / AX15. I replaced the complete clutch, slave cylinder, master cylinder. There was no air in the clutch system. You could get it into 1st gear and reverse when you first started the engine cold. After driving for a few minutes it would become very difficult to get into gear (hard to push into 1st gear and grinding reverse gear). I replaced the plastic bushing on the master cylinder rod and clutch pedal. It was a little better but not right. Removing the floor mat so the clutch pedal would go all the way to the floorboard helped a bit. I decided that the master cylinder piston was not being pushed all the way into its bore, there by not completely pushing the slave cylinder into the pressure plate and releasing the clutch. I added 5 mm of length to the master cylinder rod and my problems went away. It is surprising that the factory didn't include a way to remove the slack in the clutch pedal system. Does anyone know of an adjustable clutch rod?
×
×
  • Create New...