OldManComanche

JB Weld is your FRIEND in times of distress!

I have had good success with patching small holes with epoxy. Try to get as much of the rust sanded or removed as you can. Having something solid to bond to seems to work best. You may want to treat it with a rust retardant. Then I use a good epoxy and 2" wide masking tape to form a patch. I usually start with the lower side (bottom) if you can get to it. Put a small blob of epoxy on the tape and center the epoxy blob over the hole and apply the tape to the repair area. I try to leave the epoxy a little thicker where the hole is. The tape keeps the epoxy from running and keeps it in place till it dries. It may take several applications to fill all of a larger hole. Normally a 1/8" hole will be around a nickel to quarter size epoxy patch. The epoxy likes to run down hill till it sets up, (the reason for the tape). I have even patched holes on the bottom side of the metal, and the tape keeps the epoxy from dripping off till it sets up. Peel the tape off when it hardens. You can grind or sand to finish the surface. I haven't tried to patch a large hole, but I don't see why you couldn't glue in a piece of sheet metal to fill a larger hole. This isn't real fancy but will work!

I called at about 12:35 yesterday and got the guy on the phone. He told me that he was busy, but would call me back later. I never got a call. My biggest concern; Is there a clear, transferable title??

I tried calling last week (both numbers). No answer and neither number has voice mail set up. What is the probability that if this isn't a scam you could get a good transferable title?

This truck is also on the Tulsa Craigslist for $3550. It shows to be in Bixby OK. Something doesn't seem right!

I did a little more research on the 2.1 turbo diesel motor. Did the timing belt break and the pistons and valves get together? Is this the reason fro new pistons and head?

Has it ever been started since the new parts were installed? Why was this work done?? From the research I have done, if the timing belt fails then the pistons and valves come together causing BIG problems!! You need a good strong cranking speed to start it! A GOOD battery! You need good clean fuel squirting out of the injectors to start it! Press the throttle to the floor and crank it. Any smoke from the exhaust? No smoke means No fuel or compression. Loosen the line to one of the injectors and see if any fuel squirts out? No fuel means no start. Does the cold start aid (glow plug) work? What type of transmission, auto or manual? If it is a manual you can pull it in gear and see if you can get it to start. Do NOT use starting fluid unless you know how to use it!! It could be something really simple or something really bad! Good Luck

Have you tried to start it and just let it run for a minute? I had the rubber hose coming off of the fuel pump leak from a crack in the hose. It would leak a drop of gas about every 30 seconds. it would drip directly from the hose to the ground, so no damp area around the fuel pump. when you shut the engine off it would stop leaking. I normally park it on the gravel drive and didn't notice a drip spot till I had it running for a few minutes on concrete. If It was EASY, everyone could drive a Jeep!

Look at the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine; loose or rubber insulator shot? Is there slop in the timing chain? Unhook the belt and see if the knock stops.

All of the Walmarts are at 2.88 for regular here in Norman Oklahoma! Life is slowly getting a little BETTER!

What about the pilot bushing?

Verify you have a problem with a mechanical gauge. What weight of oil are you using?

Have you tried to tighten the clamp on the leaking hose? Just to see if it is loose and will it stop leaking if tightened. Measure the diameter of the metal pipe the hose is clamped to ( 5/16 or 3/8??). That will get you hose size. Do what Pete M says, change em all.

YEP!! Do it RIGHT and you will only need to do it ONCE!

You need to see where the leak is and stop guessing! Let the leaking gas evaporate and dry up. Cycle the ignition key to activate the fuel pump, you should be able to hear it buzz. Crawl underneath and look for the wet spot. BE CAREFUL NOT TO START A FIRE!! Good Luck

I agree with the thought about the poor quality of wiring on our trucks. I have been fighting the random high speed idle problem for a while now. I used a produce called DEoxIT D100 ( it comes in a small plastic bottle with a metal spout) to improve the electrical connection on all of the engine connectors. I used a little compressed air to blow out any dirt in the plug ends. A single little drop on each wire pin end will do. Do not over do it. This stuff will conduct electricity, so if you put too much on the plug end it will short to the neighboring wires. Basically what you are trying to do is make a good electrical connection in the plug, no resistance. This should be used as a diagnostic tool. It took less than 10 minutes to treat all of the connections going to the engine. Truck has run perfectly since I did this. If I have problems in the future I will do as AZJeff says: replace the plug ends and soldier the connections.

Get a "good" replacement slave cylinder. If you don't, you will become "good" at dropping the trans again. Don't ask how I know this! Transmission jack and a concrete floor will make your life easier too!

Is this the some problem you have had before? Are we plowing the same field we plowed before??

Did you do Cruisers CPS tricks before you installed it? It sure improves engine performance

What about drilling a small hole in the broken screw. You might get lucky and the bit will catch and screw the stud on through and out the back. If that doesn't work, use a slightly larger bit in the hole you just drilled and see if that will work. Or use a small easyout in the hole and unscrew the broken bolt. Take your time

Glad to hear it! Glad to be of some help! The truck I have now is a copy of yours, same year, same color, dash, engine/trans. etc.

Sounds like you are ahead of me!

Did you check the throttle butterfly for closing fully when you cleaned it? Has the stop screw been tampered with?

Yes on your question. If you had the throttle body off, you would have to remove the line. It has a screw to hold it in, looks like a good place for a leak. I have had the hard plastic line develop a crack in it before. It looks like the line has a piece of rubber hose in it (splice??) What about the hose connection at the MAP sensor?

MAP sensor: vacuum leak or rubber connection with throttle body???