tugboat95

Thanks for the pictures and measurements. They are a huge help. At least now I know where and how to start.I have a copy of that drawing in my manual. Do you know the measurements for the brackets under the bed?. I think I'm gonna have to fabricate something as I know those brackets are next to impossible to find. I guess I could always do the cardboard aid and design method.

Do you have any info on the mounting brackets. I located an aftermarket one but it doesn't have the brackets. I'm searching for pictures or info on how they are actually mounted, especially the front part

I'm jealous. I gave up looking about 2 years ago. Stumbled on an aftermarket one last month. Went ahead and grabbed it for cheap. Not sure exactly how It will work as it pretty rough, but I didn't pay much for it and now I got something to work with. Now I have to figure how to mount it. no brackets

I have the newest version as well. I really like it, especially the water temp and battery voltage as we all know how accurate our gauges are. MPG is pretty cool to. I also need to sit down and really learn how to interpret the numbers to useful diagnostics. But fortunately, my engine runs pretty flawlessly so I haven't had to do much in that area.

Pretty much what is said above but did you put the distributor back in 180 out?? As for checking spark. If you don't have a proper tester, Disconnect a plug wire and hold with an insulated pair of pliers next to the block. Crank the engine. Look for the spark

I just built a shop last year, you can find it on here if you look up my posts. First thing, mine is dedicated to me and nobody else in the house (wife) Second I built some space but not enough. So i'm fortunate there. Going along with that I bought a cabinet, rolling chest system from a local big box Liquidator. It was returned to Home Depot with some scratches. Bought it for half price. But the cabinets allow me to organize supplies. One has sprays, and specialty tools in it and the other has smaller pull out cabinet drawers with bolts, nuts, electrical, etc. It also stores some parts on the bottom two shelves of each cabinet. The rolling chests have 90% of my hand tools in them. One chest is metric, the other is SAE. they are on wheels and I can roll them to the job place. I have two other small chest with various extra tools as well as all kinds of painting supplies in them I also have a car lift so that helps. Next I have a set of open shelves that is home to all of my oils, anitfreeze, grease,etc. Along with the buckets, containment and oil dry stuff associated. I purchased on marketplace a set of lateral file cabinets. This is where I keep all my battery and electrical tools along with my air tools. I set a section of the shop off as a metal fab area. My welder setup is there as well as a small table that I will be making bigger soon. I also have a dedicated tool chest on wheels here for all the metal fabrication tools I need. Along with another set of lateral file drawers full of part on the bottom and grinders and their associated equipment in the top two drawers. Finally I have a an 8foot workbench that is too long (i shouldve built a 6 footer). Ii have an air compressor stuck in a corner with air lines run throughout the shop. My shop is 36 x 24 and I'm out of space already. Biggest thing in all of this is organize. Sit down and think it thru. But a year later, I'm still moving stuff around as its a work in progress One thing you do not want to skimp on. LIGHTS. put lights everywhere. You can never have enough lighting. Another advice, electrical outlets. I have a 2 gang box setup every six feet along every wall as well as 2 in the overhead. And one on my lift. I don't hunt or move stuff to get to an outlet. And I rarley use extension cords.

FYI, they are 2 more in Carolina due east of you. All the way on the coast in Craven county. I own 1 89 Eliminator that I drive regularly and 1 89 Pioneer that has turned into a parts truck. I'm at the point of turning it into a dedicated trail rig, but I just picked up a Cherokee already built, well about 80% for next to nothing. I know there is a third one in the havelock area but I've not been able to get the guy to talk to me. Come to think of it, I haven't seen in over a year.

That lift was the reason I built the shop last year. I've told my wife several times in the last few months, the lift has more than paid for itself. She's a little skeptical but my 51 year old knees and back are 100% positive!I didn't really care about the building as i had a decent garage attached to the house. But I couldn't fit a lift in it and the neighbors (and wife) would probably gripe if I installed the lift in front of the garage and left a vehicle on it for a few months at a time. I love my new shop. When I'm home I spend almost every day in it just messing around or if nothing else watching TV.

A 1989 Grand Wagoneer just sold at Barrett-Jackson for $75000. 56k miles, one owner. I wonder if any if that love is beginning to rub off on our Comanches. I'm starting to see internet prices in the teens for nice one.

Whats about to happen here? Met up with Kody and bought about half a jeep to convert the half I already have to 4wd.

That show is why I bought a Comanche. But I do like a few other shows on there. And now with Vice Grip Garage getting a show on it, ill stay for now. I like cars and trucks in general, not just jeeps. I enjoy Garage Squad and Hot Rod Garage as well.

So the Ole Red's restoration is almost complete. Just some minor suspension left and then off to Paint. And that's a far as I'll take it. Next up is my Blue trail rig. Itll be a dedicated unit as its has not title and I can't get one. It doesnt have name yet. Just the blue one. It is an 89 Pioneer long bed with a Dana 44 rear end and metric ton suspension. A non running 4.0 with the AX-5 transmission. Plan is too convert to 4x4, replace the tranny with an automatic. Get it running maybe a small lift. Nothing dramatic. To start, everything will be stock, open diffs, etc. If everything goes well and I learn the things I don't know about off-roading and the gear, (and how to weld)then I'll upgrade gears, lockers, etc. Currently I've started taking it apart and accumulating parts. I removed the bed and camper shell and sold them. I plan on a flatbed with some kind of roll bar/spare tire carrier. Also I'm looking at just mounting a fuel cell on the bed. Currently has a bench seat. Not set in stone but that may get sold to pay for bucket seats. I already have the 4x4 stuff coming from Kody next month. Hopefully over the winter I'll make steady progress on this one. If I don't go to Moab in September, I plan to finish off the suspension on Ole Red, then move the Blue One into the shop and remove the drive line, look everything over and come up with a game plan and more importantly a budget

I've been gone for a while...life happened. Man this garage looks awesome. Your craftsmanship is a whole nother level over what I built. I'm putting 2 of those electric hairdryers in my shop. I had the same thoughts on a wood stove. Electric is just easier. But then I again I live in NC and I never see the level of cold you see. I was proud of my shop til I saw what you've done.

No pictures. Just a vin number and some sheet metal with glass

Well its done. 11 months of writing checks and dealing with govt and electricians, she's done. Actually building it was the easiest thing done. Installed the lift yesterday. This afternoon there will be a Jeep in it being worked but its not mine...go figure 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

Diddo on the bath. Thought one would work but in actuality I couldn't sit on it with the door closed. I'm 6'5 and my legs were too long. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

A half ton truck will pull any of your weights without a problem. The Gladiator should but I'm not familiar with their towing capabilities. The frontage area should only be considered if you are using a smaller engine/vehicle to tow one . Think older Ford Escape (my experience). if it can tow 5100lbs, it'll pull against that wind field. Also if you use an SUV (Suburban) a trailer will lean towards heavy trailer sway. This is due to the length of vehicle behind the rear axle. Further away the hitch is, the worse the sway. This can be overcome with a properly set up weight distribution hitch. Get one. Take the time to properly set it up. Trial and error is the only way to tune your setup. 10 to 12 percent on the trailer weight in your tongue. Trailer slightly down while pulling. Not quite level. This helps while towing to allow for bumps and suspension travel. Keeps the weight in the rear axle of the truck. If its level then a pump will send the tongue up further putting weight in the back of the trailer, bringing your tongue up and taking weight off tour rear axle truck axle. Think Fulcrum and the hitch is the middle. All that said..Ford F250 will never knew 5100lbs is back there 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

What are you pulling it with? Please don't say a Comanche. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

I agree with Pete. Maintenance is required. Even in storage and not used for months at a time. Stuff shakes loose constantly. On the road its a 4.0 earthquake. And parking under trees is bad for the roof. Parking under the sun is also bad. Maintain the roof and all caulking. If you choose to cover it, buy a proper cover, not a tarp. They don't breathe properly. Inspect everything regulatory. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

Tires! Spend some money and invest in good tires. Ones from the factory are the cheapest Chinese crap they can find and blow out all the time. Ensure it its rated for proper load level. And if you buy ST tires, never go over 65mph. Light truck tires don't have that limitation, but they don't have the flex that an ST tire has. Personally I prefer the flex. But nothing wrong with good light truck tires. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

America lite is a cheaper quality trailer. Thing is people will only complain about problems, rarely compliment. My last one wasa 2012 forest river 27bh. I really liked it. Doesn't really matter who makes it, they all are subject to a Monday morning syndrome. My advice is get a used one. Hear me out. First off you don't know what you want. Even if you think you do. Buy one 2 to 4 years old. Should still be in good shape and that huge depreciation has taken effect. Keep it and use it for a year to 18 months. Discover what works for you and what doesnt. If you love it, then great. If you don't you can sell it and go buy another one with the features you want, for close to the same money. That's what I did. Found out the bathroom didn't work for me and it wanted a slide out. Sold my 2010 trailer and bought the 12 for the same money plus $500. Regardless of what you get, if the sides have started delaminating or any soft spots on the floor, walk away. That is a money pit looking for a wallet. They are all mass produced but Jayco I think has the best quality. My first 2 were Jaycos. I took their factory tour. They do use jigs and air operated nailers, but they are all hand built, including all the cabinetry. I think they tend to hold up better over the years. Generally takes about a week to build one. But they produce about 10 to 12 of a certain model each day. Once they reach a certain number, they change to a different floor plan and produce this for a while. Its quite an amazing operation. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

That barge weighs around 10 thousand tons loaded. I move 90 % of the time with this line. Spectra for the win (There is a 2 1/4" cable under the line for when we tow offshore about a 1/2 mile behind us) 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

As a volunteer firefighter, I see tow truck drivers do amazing things with a winch. But a a tugboat crew member that regularly tows and hooks up 10 thousand TON plus vessels to each other I see them stand in stupid, dangerous places. Always assume your strap, cable, whatever WILL part! When it does where is the snap back gonna go? Are you using a pulley off of a tree making a triangle for a better angle? Don't be in that bite. If the pulley fails, that line will come straight immediately don't BE THERE! It will kill you. Personally because of my own experience, I like the Synthetic line. (Spectra or Plasma are the trade names) No stretch what so ever. If sized right it will do anything. A 1 inch spectra line will hold more and weigh a fraction of a 2 inch winch cable. If it parts there is no snap back. It will fall to the ground where it lays. Only worry with them is abrasion resistance. Use chaffing gear and don't cut it on a sharp object. 100% Nylon has a stretch of 40%. A 100 foot line will stretch to 140 feet. Its strength is in the stretch. But once its been reached it will part violently. Most rope has nylon in it. When mixed with Dacron the stretch is significantly reduced and the breaking point is lowered as well. Another hit, if you ever see a rope "smoking" get away from it. Its getting ready too fail. Its not always seen, but if you do see it, that's what's happening. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd

You got a good starting point. 1989 Eliminator 4.0L 5 speed 2wd