JimBorecky

Finally got the leather steering wheel installed. This is the products I used to dye it black. Pulled the old wheel and installed the new one. Had issues finding any assembly photos that weren't very vague. So I first placed the thin metal ring on first, concave side down, so it popped up in the middle. Then placed the other assembly with the rubber spacer on. I drilled a small hole in the rubber/metal assembly and changed the spade connector out for a ring connector. then ran the wire through the gap in the hole, and secured it with a screw. Painted the gray horn button with black primer and used silver model paint to make the jeep logo stand out. BEEP BEEP it works!!!! Feel free to comment if I assembled this wrong. :)

Let me know how the measurements worked out if you do.

Someone on FB was asking how I plumbed up the radiator. I took a few pictures and thought I'd post them here too. I started with universal hoses and hated them because they seemed always kinked. These are basically cut and splice, looks better anyway, we'll see how reliable they are. I'm also most likely goin to replace the top support and cut less out of it.

They did, I plan on pulling them and painting the arm rests, but the "plastic" paint isn't sticking too well to the other trim pieces so I'm going to try and find something else.

The update on the A/C. Had to go with a different style compressor, since the so called aftermarket LS swap adaptors are crap. I was all excited that I had the A/C wired properly and the compressor was going. It was blowing cold air into the truck. Twenty minutes later the seals around the adaptor gave way. GRRRRRR. Went to this style; Then bought this adaptor. I had to do a little grinding on the adaptor to make room next to the engine mount, it fit, but may rattle a little. The system is recharged and I still haven't taken it out on a test run yet. Seemed to be good in the garage. I was putting the dash back together and managed to pull three wires out of one of the connectors for the cluster. So I gave up for the night after that. How I wired this one. Your mileage may vary. :) FYI I also had to change the PCM settings to Analog here.

So a little UPDATE: Decided to change up the door cards thanks to @Warren99. For those that are frustrated with cold air in the winter cause someone removed the vapor barrier at some point in time. I've done this more than once when I have to get into the door mechanics, an it's much cheaper than getting a new door vapor barrier. Bought thick plastic drop cloth and double sided duct tape from hardware store Put the tape where I want it. place the plastic in place. Take a utility knife and cut along the dotted line. :) FYI I zip tie the rods so they don't fall down into the door. And here we are.

Ok so added another service port further up the line. So both are on top of the engine compartment where I can get too them. Looking GOOD! It's holding a vacuum! Now to get the dash back in and wire up the A/C components. So for those following these are the ports that worked for me. https://a.co/d/4y4swQL Also I used this compressor https://a.co/d/eekVzPa This piece fits the evaporator: https://donbrownbusparts.com/products/fitting-str-5-8-mo-x-10-hose-beadlock-313217

So here is what I have. I haven't had any issues so far.

I plan on reattaching it once I make sure I fix all the leaks. You can see it hanging in the one photo. I plan on attaching it the trans cooler the same way I did before. https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-53500-Universal-Nylon-Mounting/dp/B078WHF9F5/ref=sr_1_7

Well the condenser fits well. Can't say the same for the adaptor ports from Amazon. I still have a leak somewhere and I'm guessing that's where. Homemade custom hoses. This A/C better work as I've already poured a ton of money into getting this far. Not sure I'm so thrilled with the service port location for the low side. It's awfully close to the exhaust and I'm afraid I'm going to get burned.

Three steps forward, two steps back. I knew before I put in the air box the vacuum harness did not have the line for the recirculating air vent. I didn't think I'd find one, but low and behold I found one on ebay, so this makes the fourth time I remove this box.

So I've been hesitate about posting this, as FULL DISCLOSURE: I AM NOT A DRAFTSMAN. Not sure how accurate this drawing is. Drawing is at the bottom. With that being said, someone was kind enough to let me measure their SWB Factory Rollbar. If anyone is adventurous enough to have a muffler shop bend one, it will be about the same quality and thickness as the originals. Better yet if someone has access to a mandrel tube bender and wants to make ones that would actually protect you in a rollover. I bet you could sell a few. ComancheRollbar.pdf

TOO FUNNY!! I just removed all the led bulbs and went back to incandescent because of this issue. Just ordered one. THANKS!

The condenser fit well behind that massive radiator! No adjustments really needed to be made. Just gathering up the pieces to make custom hoses. Big THANK YOU for to Mike Rocklin and Don Brown Bus Parts! They had the fittings I needed for the expansion value. A little hick up in shipping, but they made it right. GREAT customer service.

So in another portion of the garage....... A little spray foam to fill in the clapped dash. I might have gotten a little carried away. LOL A little Bondo to fill in the holes left by the foam. Second coat afraid it might need a third. Plan on recovering it in vinyl. We'll see how it turns out. This was the worst of the three dash's I have an happens to be the original in the truck.