Minuit Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 You guys couldn't have even driven after dark in the halogen days let alone the pre-halogen days. ;) My main issue is you need to keep up with the flatbillers that are rocking the LEDs and a leveling kit. Even on lowbeam they're aimed right at you, so you need something that at least makes enough light to give you a chance to see something other than just their lights... Echoing this. I live in a Southern college town most of the year. I wouldn't have any retinas left if I had to drive a low-sitting car at night around here. Flatbill diesel truck droolies and mall rated JKs are about 40% of the traffic each, and they usually have HID headlights in the wrong housings or the increasingly common roof mounted death ray light bars. If they're courteous enough to keep their stock headlights they're never aimed to compensate for their usually 6"+ lift. That's the main problem I have with driving at night. Without anyone else on the road my headlights were perfectly adequate, even with the original wiring. With the relay harness I'm very happy with their performance, and I still have sealed beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/7x6-45W-6054-H6054-Cree-Sealed-Beam-LED-Crystal-Clear-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Headlight-/182369198575?hash=item2a760d21ef:g:S5cAAOSwnbZYFF5a&vxp=mtr Got these and they are great !!!!! I can actually see at night now I ran these for a while and they are a huggggge improvement over the factory lights. Just be careful because having the plastic lens they do scratch easily and they don't get warm so they won't melt the snow off so you'll be scrapping on them to remove snow and ice and they will scratch. I ended up switching to the Rampage conversion kit https://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lighting-Jeep-Lighting-Accessories/Rampage-H4-Headlamp-Conversion-Kit-55-60W-5089927.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=67&t_pt=4730&t_pn=RPP5089927 and they are almost as bright as these Cree lights in low beams but they have much better distance with the brights on aaannnd get warm enough to melt snow and have a glass front so they won't scratch. These are both great options but consider what I mentioned when buying either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull4x4 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I always make sure to brush the snow off of the lights on all the trucks we have. Yep I'm going to be very very careful not to scratch them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Gregory Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here is a link to make your own harness, if you're ever so inclined. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 And here's a wiring diagram that I had to create to make sense of the above write-up. If you're not looking to upgrade your headlight bulbs much at all, the wire sizes he uses are way overkill. I'm pretty sure the commercial harness are only 14awg (maybe 16) instead of 10. I used 10 myself because I was planning on upgrading my headlights, but after putting in the harness and actually getting 12V to them, I've never felt the need for anything better than the factory lights. At least not on public roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Gregory Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 And here's a wiring diagram that I had to create to make sense of the above write-up. If you're not looking to upgrade your headlight bulbs much at all, the wire sizes he uses are way overkill. I'm pretty sure the commercial harness are only 14awg (maybe 16) instead of 10. I used 10 myself because I was planning on upgrading my headlights, but after putting in the harness and actually getting 12V to them, I've never felt the need for anything better than the factory lights. At least not on public roads. Thanks for posting this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 I'm not sure I agree with mounting relays on their side and definitely not with using quick connects and one color of wire for 75% of the circuit or with using plastic insulated butt connectors for underhood wiring (my preference would be to use uninsulated connectors with sealant lined heatshrink over them) but otherwise that's a solid writeup. gogmorgo's wiring diagram is excellent and very clear about what to do. The factory used I think 16AWG wire for the headlights which I'd say is on the cusp of being too small even for the stock headlights, but for anything that draws more amps than the stock headlights definitely too small. Here's the reference I use if wire size is in question, and for reference the cheap Sylvania Xtravision bulbs I'm sure most of us are running are 35W(2.9A) low beam and 65W(5.4A) high beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 What's wrong with relays on their side? To be honest I never bothered securing them, they're still floating on the wires, hasn't caused an issue yet for three years. One of those things I've just never gotten around to doing, although it is a "don't try this at home" because I will address it eventually. I also used his wiring colours, although I used different coloured heatshrink for left and right sides. And as a matter of pedantry if that's what we're doing, the factory lights are 35W/65W, but the XV's are actually 55/65, so there's not much point in going with a lower gauge for the low-beam circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's the reference I use if wire size is in question, and for reference the cheap Sylvania Xtravision bulbs I'm sure most of us are running are 35W(2.9A) low beam and 65W(5.4A) high beam. Correction: The factory headlights are 35 watts on low beam. Sylvania Basic headlamps are the same. The Xtravisions are 55 watts low beam and 65 watts high beam. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sylvania-h6054-xtravision-sealed-beam-box-of-1-h6054xvbx/5081742-P#fragment-2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's an XV box that says 35/65 which is the first thing that turned up when I googled "sylvania xtravision" The purple and green boxes say they're 55/65 though, so I'll concede that. I don't like relays on their sides because it seems like they would be more susceptible to the weather mounted like that. Not that I have any evidence, I just prefer to mount them contacts facing down in a proper relay socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Minuit, The company I worked for the last 20+ years of my working life is/was a provider of distributed controls systems world wide to the power industry (including nuclear) and municipal waste water systems. We used a good number of relay panels as parts of the control system. All of these relay panels were mounted vertically, with the relays being mounted "on their side", as I think you have described it. We had no issues world wide. But the equipment was always enclosed in it's own cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 With the original Bosch relays (I'm talking early 80 to 90s) they definitely lived longer when mounted vertical. The current ones are completely sealed and do not care at all. Cheap relays probably still suffer this issue, and I have seen more than a few people report that with the Chicom relays that come with the Putco harness. As an aside, I bought the Putco harness and installed it a couple days ago. I would not buy it again. People had warned me that they used cheap components, but I could get it off Amazon (Prime, makes it easy for me) so I bought it anyways. All said and done I would have rather spent the time to make my own harness using decent components. The Putco stuff is definitely very cheap/cheesy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 SOP for mounting exposed Bosch-mechanical type automotive relays has always been vertically, terminals down. The only exceptions are when they are in an environmentally sealed enclosure. For the solid state automotive relays that are widely used now, their orientation doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac8 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Bought these. Not sure if their street legal but mine is going to be a hunting buggy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 I never said mounting the relays on their side was wrong. If that's how the post sounded that's not how I meant it, and I did not intend to seem like I was speaking with authority about it. It's just not something that I personally would do if I was building a harness and had the choice. When I wrote that post, I was more concerned with the terminals being more exposed to the elements than they would if the relay was mounted terminals down, not the risk of the relay itself being ruined. Is that paranoia on my part? Probably, that's the way I am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Anyone run these? I have the upgraded harness and stock lights right now. I'm headed across the state on deer infested roads soon and would like to see better. https://www.amazon.com/XingMang-Headlight-Headlights-Replacement-Cherokee/dp/B08F4SF2MY/ref=asc_df_B08F4SF2MY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475855973431&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3559198954570006458&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033419&hvtargid=pla-1064751929273&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 I run a cheapo lightbar on the roof with a magnet mount. headlights can't hold a candle to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 For driving on public roads, nothing beats a good quality projector housing. The light source is secondary. Many led’s are very bright to look at but don’t direct the light well and end up wasting light. They sacrifice precision for lumens. Off-road lighting of course can use light all over the place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Hoping to improve distance for freeway speed driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Disclaimer: I have not used the lights you specified. However, my instant and generalized opinion: They are made by "XingMang", they cost ~$65 for a pair, and they are carried by Amazon. Taken together I would guess they suck for doing the job you describe. In my limited experience headlights are a place where you assemble your own, using quality parts and lots of time; or you pay someone else to assemble them using quality parts and their time. Either way, they won't be cheap. Currently I run Trucklites. They are alright. Next time around I am thinking about THESE. I have heard good things, but you should definitely do your own (more) research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Hard to play hard on a budget. Those look like nice lights. I suppose I'll wait till I can get some better one than what I mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 the best (and cheapest) option is to slow down. you don't need to be doing as fast as possible alone on the freeway. getting there safe is more important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_41?dchild=1&keywords=autopal+headlights&qid=1631937319&sr=8-41 Get the optional 80/100 bulbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 6 hours ago, cruiser54 said: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_41?dchild=1&keywords=autopal+headlights&qid=1631937319&sr=8-41 Get the optional 80/100 bulbs. I run h4 hoisings in my cj and had them in a mj years ago. I think mine are ipf. They are the way to go. Upgraded harnrss and bulbs you won't be disappointed. I think the only thing better would be a light bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scguy Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 I'm running Autopal E codes and 80/100W Hella H4s. Pretty stinking bright, but don't even think about trying it on a stock harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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