Minuit

No shims needed. It's normal for a new starter to sound a little different but there shouldn't be anything even close to a clatter. I agree with AZJeff - take the flexplate cover off (or have your mechanic do it) and see if you can get a better look at the flexplate. If you can record the noise it might help us figure out what's going on.

This is a great source of frustration on my manual '89 MJ with the factory cupholder that goes over where the handbrake would be on an XJ. Now that I'm driving it a little more I'm going to have to sort out some real cupholders. I haven't found a single type of drink container that the factory cupholders hold well. Not to mention, I almost knock my drink on the floor every time I go to shift... My Thunderbird takes the prize for "least thought out cupholder" though.

Got it fixed this afternoon. It sure does drive better when there's no wheels trying to cut loose. Also rotated the tires (all of the other lug nuts were uniformly tight) and repacked the wheel bearing on that corner. To answer some questions: I have aluminum Ravine wheels on the truck. When I bought the wheels they came with the original lug nuts that went with those wheels, which I swapped on to my MJ since they were in better shape. I looked over the wheel carefully, and it doesn't look like it has any damage - maybe a scratch or two that wasn't there before. The lug nut areas on all 4 wheels look fine with no deformation. After I had the tires put on, I loosened all of the lug nuts (tire guy must have turned his impact up all the way and held the trigger down a while) and torqued them to 75 ft-lb as the FSM directs, and then retorqued with the same torque wrench after a couple days of driving. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't see myself forgetting to torque the same wheel twice. Regardless of what actually happened, I'm definitely going to add "check lug nut torque" to the monthly preventative maintenance checklist

I haven't driven my '91 in a while, so I decided to take it to the gym last night. On the way back I noticed a weird front-end shimmy it hasn't ever had before, and I decided to check it out this morning. As it turns out, my truck very nearly killed me last night: It seems like the lug nuts on the RF wheel somehow backed off and broke the studs when I started driving. One nut was holding the wheel on by the time I looked at it and it was loose. The last time the wheels were off this truck was about a year ago, when I had the new tires put on. Not long after that I re-torqued all 20 lug nuts. The truck drove absolutely fine until last night, and the 15 other lugnuts were perfectly tight. Moral of the story: check your lug nuts every now and then. I'm not the paranoid kind, but having all 5 lugs on one wheel suddenly get loose makes me just a tiny bit suspicious.

This is my only concern: will ComancheClub, now or in the future, ever claim any rights over members' images as a result of this hosting?

I would also like to read the new ToS before I agree to anything.

Time for some mid-year changes! - Soft-Touch Button Foam has been dropped as an option on Special Series radios due to low take rate. Color LED Illumination is still available in all 5 colors. A much more interesting replacement for Soft-Touch Button Foam is in the works. - All owner's manuals and warranty information booklets will be distributed digitally rather than on paper, unless specifically requested by the customer. - 82300392, 82300393, and 82300394 Mopar Accessory CD Players with quiet FM radio output will be repaired for a flat rate of $75 plus return shipping. - I continue to recommend the TaoTronics TT-BR05 for your Bluetooth needs. One of mine has now cleared 6 months of trouble-free use, and I guarantee it to work perfectly alongside your Enhanced Radio. - Auxiliary Input is now available on many single-DIN Ford digital radios. Jeep folks are not likely to care. Functionality is similar to Jeep radios, with the auxiliary input replacing "AM" mode. Unless mentioned above, there will be no changes to any service. Lead time for a new radio order is approximately two weeks at the moment, but may decrease further as I clear my backlog of orders. Thanks for a great 2018 so far, and especially for May 2018, my best month yet!

That was quick!

That pic shows the holes on the "face" of the bumper, but I'm not sure I've ever seen one mounted that way. The holes to mount it on every bumper I've seen are in the same location (on the right of the bumper) but on the bottom. If you decide to put it back in the stock location you'll see.

I have an ACDelco branded high lift "SUV" jack and matching stands that I bought from O'Reilly (I think) several years ago that I use for the trucks. The stands are built very well with nice quality welds and wider "feet" on the bottoms, and the jack still works like new. The black one sucks and started leaking down about a year after I got it, and it doesn't get used nearly as much.

Thanks as always Buck.

As one or two of you may know, I also own a 1989 Comanche. Sometimes I forget too. After I graduated from school I figured I better either start working on this thing again or sell it, so here we are. The cooling system was always a little flaky, so I started off by changing the antifreeze and burping the closed system: I keep forgetting how much I hate bleeding this stupid cooling system. The next time this thing needs cooling system works the whole thing is getting converted. I can think of things you can defend about the Renix fuel injection, but I can't think of a single redeeming feature of the closed cooling system. The next order of business was to get the electric fan working automatically again. It was wired to a switch when I got it, but I wanted to put it back to original function. I was getting ready to print out schematics and everything for a big electrical diagnosis, but I checked for power and ground and it turns out that the wiring is intact - the cooling fan relay was broken in half though, which may have slightly hampered its functionality. Replacing the relay got the fan switching on and off as normal. The FSM says it switches on and off at 190 F, and it never stays on for more than a few minutes. Not having any Renix experience, I assume this is normal. I'm used to the HO system where the fan never comes on unless you're running hot, or turn the A/C on. The temp gauge reads about 210 consistently, and poking around with an IR thermometer gives readings of "about 200 or so" on the upper hose, so I think I may actually have this thing keeping a normal temperature... for now. I plugged in my MT2500 and found out that the computer thinks the temperature is 160F with the fan running (and thus never goes into closed loop mode), so there's still some issues to sort out. It also takes forever to warm up, but once warmed up seems to stay pretty stable. Yesterday was parking brake day. The truck hasn't had the parking brake mechanism installed since I've had it, and the original parking brake cable was present but rusty and broken. The parking brake pedal assembly came with the truck in a box, so I had everything but a new cable. I ordered a front parking brake cable, p/n 52003192 and fixed up the pedal mechanism with some new springs: Installing the new parking brake cable isn't hard - the carpet does need to come up on the driver side as the cable runs under the seat and out through a hole in the cab in roughly the middle. Once the carpet is up and the cable is unclipped at the pedal and at the equalizer, it just pulls out. Fortunately, most of the interior pieces surrounding the carpet are not currently installed, so the seat and seat belt just had to come out. I didn't take any pics, but I'm sure you can all imagine what a parking brake cable looks like. To my complete surprise, I had absolutely no problems with the aftermarket parking brake cable. It was the correct length and everything fit and looked just like the original should. It seems that I even remembered to put the bulb for the brake light in this gauge cluster when I put it together! At this point, I expected a fight with the rear brakes to get them to work again. However, after adjusting the front cable to a reasonable length (a little loose to not strain the mechanism too much) the parking brake holds like a hot damn! Suffice it to say I'm very surprised. I think the auto-adjusters in the rear brakes might also be working now, since the brake pedal started feeling a lot better after using the parking brake a few times. A release cable would be nice to have though... I expected to spend all day working on getting the parking brake working, but this only took a couple of hours, so I went ahead and put the dash back together (it was taken apart for other reasons) and installed my '86 AMC DNR cassette deck with the super rare green display (and aux input, of course) that I finished restoring a while back... thanks @87MJTIM! The tape deck even works, if a tiny bit fast. It's quickly becoming my favorite radio in my collection. Yes, that's the full brightness on the clock, and yes the bulb in it is good. I wonder if an LED bulb would make that thing readable... The fully electronic (and very, very complicated) tape mechanism on the RX-135 makes some amazing mechanical clunking sounds: That's it for now. I've decided I need to start paying this truck some attention, and this is just the beginning. Coming up soon is probably a front suspension rebuild, as it sorely needs it. I also want to swap some red doors and a red hood on it so that it won't lower nearby property values TOO much by parking it in the driveway.

Very impressive job patching up that lower dash panel!

I bought mine from Stockinteriors, and the color was Mist Grey if I recall correctly. Very, very similar in color to what the OE carpet was (when new). Takes a lot of fitting but if you put in the work you can make it look very nice.

Yep, we primarily use it for MJOTM and reposting the instagram pics. If anyone has ideas for good stuff to use it for let me know.

I will make the possibly bold assertion that there are absolutely no aftermarket sensors worth buying on the market. I have not had good results from a single one. The CKP is one of those things your engine can't run without. Don't cheap out on it.

Too late. They can go F themselves. Fixing the damage they did to their reputation ain't gonna be as easy as saying "Oops, we realized we did an unpopular thing. Love us again!"

Group 34 will fit in the stock location. You get a little "extra" all around, depending on the exact battery you use. The factory battery hold down even fits!

Most people find them on late '80s to early '90s models. Mostly the fancier trims but there's no way to say for sure.

You want a 28mm bar from a high trim XJ (the XJ Limited seems like the most likely source) and maybe some ZJs - best to measure the sway bar yourself if in doubt. Use poly bushings with it too

I've never had trouble getting the power window regs out either and I've taken lots of XJ doors apart, both manual and power. There's a certain way you have to do it but definitely enough room once you figure it out.

Being a Pioneer doesn't mean much. They went from pretty much base models to just a notch or so below an Eliminator. Just depends on what you ordered.

Wow, very good find. I have heard pretty bad things about modern MB Quart stuff. It's a shame, but it happens so often these days.

The only trick to this is just making sure you put everything back together the way it was. I agree with Dando - just take the cap off of the distributor rather than taking the wires off. Then just lift the distributor off, replace the little paper gasket (get a couple, they're dirt cheap and easy to lose or mess up) and replace the distributor in the same orientation it was in. That takes a little fiddling, but not too bad. Just make sure you kept track of where it was pointing before you take it off.