Minuit

Please, please, please do this. Especially since your MJ has a non-stock engine swap. We have no idea what's going on under your hood until you give us some more info. Especially since you have an engine swap we need all the details you can give us.

If I recall correctly, both the JCR build and whatever Bleepinjeep is doing to that rusty 86 got ripped apart last time it was posted on here. If I was the person doing those builds, I wouldn't want to post it on here either! I'm not defending those trucks, but we haven't exactly made ourselves friendly towards them.

You'll have better luck on the older models. I don't think I've ever seen them on a Cherokee. They weren't common to begin with, and finding a set that are still in good shape in 2018 isn't going to be too easy.

Throw my tools in a wheelbarrow. Figure out the rest as I go along. Seats are especially fun to deal with.

This is being auctioned off right where I'm at. I think I actually remember seeing this truck driving around for a while.

It seems the only TPS that will make it out of the box in working order (or if you get lucky, last more than 2 years or so) is Mopar.

I wouldn't be lifting anything, so the geometry before and after ought to be the same. Seems like you're right - about the only thing that's actually changing relative to the steering linkage is whether or not the new axle is straight. Although I doubt my 175k mile old beam is perfectly straight either...

Totally hypothetical here. Say I currently have a 2WD truck and want to make it 4WD. Obviously this will require installing a D30 in place of the old 2WD beam. If I am very careful to not disturb the tie rod ends and leave the steering linkage connected to the truck, would the truck still be in correct alignment after I swapped the axles?

99% sure you can just go buy those nylon push-nuts at a hardware store. I think I remember replacing some in my brackets. As someone who has sold several pairs of those speaker brackets, it's pretty clear there's a demand for them. Generally, you should do the opposite of what your average Jeep FB group denizen says to do.

They're garbage, lowest-bidder, slapped together junk. They aren't even worth the box they come in. I've had them bad right out of the box before.

!!! If the available engines weren't such complete garbage the 84-86 XJs would be my absolute favorites.

Good to see. Originals are getting hard to find. Would be neat to see a version for 5-1/4 or maybe 6-1/2" speakers.

This. Even if they made them I wouldn't give half a damn. Not to mention they'd be faded and cracking inside of 3 years tops. To give credit where credit is due, reverse engineering auto parts and actually having them fit is very difficult and expensive. If it was easy and cheap, aftermarket parts would actually be worth a damn. Molds are very expensive. Designing molds that work is difficult and expensive. No matter how many petitions we sign, I can just about guarantee the money just isn't there. Even if you say you'll buy 5 sets. Plus, I can think of about 20 different parts I'd rather see made than tailllights. How about body and HVAC gaskets so I don't have to cut them out of foam myself? How about that damn 10-pin connector in the headlight harness? How about those damn push-pins that hold the rear cab trim piece on?

My experience is that the cable just gets a little bit loose instead of just breaking. If I remember correctly there's a ziptie in there holding tension on the cable that can break and make the cable not pull the tilt latch back enough to let the seat flip forward.

The relay is working correctly. By "3 channels of output" they literally just mean there is 3 contacts on the load side of the relay. It's nothing fancy, and kind of a POS module by the looks of it. That's a single relay that can only control one thing at a time.

If you are willing to switch around covers and foam, you can make those seats into whatever you want. The seats in my '91 started off as those - even had the same tear in the vinyl! I then swapped over the covers and foam from 4dr XJ seats. It's not hard at all to take the seats apart, just takes a little patience and finesse. $75 is a little high but not crazy. See if you can talk him down a little bit.

If you do the continuity test I talked about in my first post and it checks out, then you should be able to make it work with the jumper wire the seller told you about. Seems like the input (it can be either 12V or ground, whatever you want to apply to your circuit) isn't making it to the COM terminal of the relay.

Also, forgot to mention - you should have 12V at one of the three contacts at all times (either NO or common, NC would defeat the purpose of even having the relay). Follow the PCB traces from the 12V input to the relay. Don't rule out that thing being dead right out of the box. Pretty common with Chinese electronics like that.

If I'm understanding this correctly: Relay is activating, but 12V is not flowing from the input through the relay contacts? If the relay is clicking when you push the buttons, the coil is being activated - so that should rule out the transmitter and receiver as well as everything in between the receiver and relay coil. You should have continuity between NC and COM when the relay isn't activated, and between NO and COM when it is. Can you post a close-up pic of the bottom of the PCB?

The stock replacement cats I'm seeing for a '91 MJ with 4.0L show a square flange on one end and no flange on the other.

Pete is right, the rocking chair pedestals are shorter to take up the height difference in the seat. The MJ seat brackets don't have any height to give up due to the MJ's heavily sloped floor - in the rear the pedestals are already pretty much as short as they can be. The XJ rocking chair seat pedestals have legs that are about as long on all 4 corners as the rear legs on the MJ pedestal.

Shortbed. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

SWBs and LWBs have the shocks mounted on the opposite side of the axle. I had those exact shocks on my 91 and moved them to my 89 because they lift the rear a little bit. No issues. They prevent the bed from sagging when loaded and don't affect the ride much.

If I ever get a chance I'll flip the arms around and see if there really is any difference. There had to have been some kind of reason why they put the oval bushing at the axle

The WJ has the oval at the axle so that's where I would put it. When I installed mine I put the oval at the frame and I still haven't fixed it. Hasn't seemed to have caused any problems