Minuit

Big sheet of Dynamat (or similar material) covering as much of the roof panel as possible. The roof is the only place I recommend going crazy with it. If you really wanted to do it right, you'd also add as thick a layer of sound absorbing foam as possible, but I didn't do that. The main benefit is that I literally can't hear raindrops hitting the roof anymore.

It sure sounds good, that's for sure.

The auto parts stores around me have some of the highest turnover of any business I've ever been around regularly... except the Autozone in my town. The same group of old guys have been working there since I was 10 it seems like. Usually at the other places the managers stay around for a while, but it seems like there's always a new guy working the counter who just started. Shame too, because for a while pretty much everyone in one of the O'reillys here knew me by name, or at least as that one guy with the weird Jeep trucks.

3 spoke is the way to go... it's just so thin without the leather wrapping.

That's where I keep my secret stash of MJ tail lights Once because I screwed up putting it in, once to sound deaden the roof, and again to pull wiring for an overhead console... just in case.

Or any large flat bladed screwdriver will work too.

Critical info right here.

Agreed on SMS headliners. Had mine since 2012 (it was one of the first things I bought for my truck!) and no signs of any sagging or any damage. It's been in and out of the truck SEVERAL times since then, so it's definitely been handled. Looks just like it did 6 years ago, except for a small nick under the sunvisor that's completely my fault. I talked to him not too long ago and he responded to my messages. As far as I know he's still making headliners, although I think his son was taking over the business.

In my head I know they must be fairly common, but it's been forever since I remember seeing one. Just another bland white or silver box that blends in. As a side note, I'm sad that silver is such a common boring appliance color these days. Damnit, my truck was silver before it was cool!

Yes. The extra wire will be tucked away behind the bumper area on the side where there isn't a horn. On my truck, I installed both horns from a 2001 XJ. I noticed that the wires on mine were juuuust long enough to work.

Question: does that bedliner lift up at highway speed? I have that exact Duraliner bedliner, and I've never managed to get it to actually stay down on the bed above 55 or so. My '89 actually has the paint scraped off from a couple of spots because of abrasion from it.

heh... "Firearm"

Yup. Or any 4dr XJ has two of them.

This happened to me a couple of months ago, except with less lug nuts. There was indeed a wicked vibration and a very noticeable sense of "something ain't quite right here"

There are two types of deflection you can think about here - elastic, and plastic. Elastic deformation is not permanent - remove the load and your structure will snap back to its original shape (not counting stuff like fatigue and creep). Plastic deformation is permanent damage, and we want to avoid it when designing a structure. Most materials will have some ability to deform elastically, but when you deform them past their elastic limit they will start to be plastically deformed. The amount of internal stress when plastic deformation (and thus, permanent damage) is noticeable is called the yield strength. That's why torque-to-yield bolts aren't reusable - in the act of tightening them, we have actually permanently stretched the bolt. The equation I used above was to determine what size of box section you needed to have less than a quarter inch of elastic deflection at the very end. What they're talking about in your article is a different question - in a nutshell, "how far can you stand down the length of this box section before it bends permanently?". If you plugged your numbers into that equation, you could find out whether or not your box section would yield. In this case, you'd want to avoid yield, so that would be valuable information too. You'd need my equations to know how much it would bend (and they only work in cases of elastic deformation).

I for one would be very interested in pics.

1) I think I had this question on a test or two! This is a classic cantilever beam problem. If the load is at the very end, max deflection = FL³/3EI where F equals applied load, L equals length, E is the modulus of elasticity, and I is the area moment of inertia. Technically a negative number because your load is pointing down. Plugging in 0.25" for deflection, I get a minimum Ixx of 18.4 in^4. 1/4" 4x6 stood up would be suitable for this. Even with 2x6, yield won't be a concern (deflection will be too much though). If it's somewhere in the middle, deflection = Fa²/6EI all times (a-3L) where a equals the distance from the supported end to the load, everything else is same as before. Max deflection will always be at the unsupported end so no need to solve for its location. Set it equal to 0.25 inches, solve for I. To find the moment of inertia, you can either solve a rather unwieldy equation on paper or just look it up for HSS here. Also gives you the section modulus for stress calculations (stress equals bending moment divided by section modulus - max stress is at the supported end.) For steel, a good round number for E is 207 gigpascals, or 30,000,000 psi. Just a general number that will give you a good idea. If you can find out what grade your steel is I might be able to look it up in my books and tell you what it really is but I think we may have gone too far with the math already :) edited because I had a math error originally

There is a thermocouple probe in the A/C evaporator that will turn the compressor off if the evaporator reaches a certain temperature to prevent it from freezing up. Aftermarket evaporators usually eliminate this. This is critical to the function of the system, as the only other cycling control is a hi-lo cutoff switch located in the receiver/drier. This will only disable the compressor if there is no refrigerant in the system or there is a dangerously high pressure in the system. Without the probe, the compressor is essentially uncontrolled. This is not the intended behavior of the system and can lead to evaporator freezing or worse. (you guys should probably start a new thread)

6lb 14oz 19" September 12th 3:30PM

That looks like a 92-95 harness. OBD1 diagnostic connector and the later model temp sender plugs give it away.

I wish there was a way to fit the rocker seats at the regular height like in the XJ. I've sat in a couple of XJs with this feature and it's neat and would improve driver comfort. Sadly, the way the XJ compensated for the added height of the rocker mechanism was to shorten the legs on the floor pedestals. The rear legs of the MJ floor pedestals are about as short as they can be already due to the slope of the floor on the MJ, so I don't see a way to make it work without some serious modification to things I'd rather not modify. Does anyone have an idea of how much the rocker mechanism would raise the seat? I know it would make it too high for most people, but I've never measured it myself or seen someone else measure it.

I bought a Crown cable on amazon for my '89 shortbed and it was a perfect fit. It included the plug, just had to fish it through and connect it at either end and it was ready to go.

You'll find that the mounting holes for the console brackets are already center-punched and just need to be drilled out. The factory just used #8 sheet metal screws to attach the console. The floor shifter is used as a mounting point for the console, but it's not really needed. There's also a mounting point where the 4x4 shifter is (or the blanking plate that covers the hole, if you're 2wd)

Yes, the one for the ECU is up front in the thermostat housing.