Minuit

You found one of the rare ones that have the Chrysler connector. Not much to write home about, though - Mono (yuck, even in 1987), AM only. A conversation piece at best, and they're hard to find anyway.

Yeah, my '89 has a completely different latch on the cable itself. Speedo head looks exactly the same though.

I honestly had no idea you could put the bumper on upside down But really though, welcome to CC. Good luck with your (un)build!

Lucky. The Chrysler dealership here is awful. So much so that I order stuff online even if I KNOW I can get it at the local dealer.

My '89 has a "lever" on the speedometer end of the cable, quite similar to some electrical connectors. It has the same natural color plastic, but the fastening looks completely different. I'm fairly sure that the speedometers themselves are identical. Can you post a pic of where the cable goes on your speedometer head? It should clip on the upper control arm bolt to prevent the cable from getting roasted:

For the window handles, what worked for me was to get under the handle where it clips onto the window regulator shaft with one of those "trim panel" tools and pry it off from the center. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35400-Door-Upholstery-Remover/dp/B0002BC0PA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1532529118&sr=8-4&keywords=lisle+trim+tool For the door lock rods, the only thing I can think of is "have smaller fingers" - I have tiny hands and those are still a pain in the @$$. I think you can buy them new in the "Help" section of auto parts stores.

Starting on August 1, 2018, all domestic orders of Enhanced Radios (which previously included free shipping) will be subject to an additional shipping charge of $13.60. This represents fully insured (I will eat insurance costs) shipping in a USPS medium flat rate box. This is a flat price to all locations within the contiguous United States and is not variable based on your location. International shipping, as well as shipping to Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico, will continue to be an extra charge as before. This does not affect repair orders, nor does it affect orders of adapters - on repairs and adapters, shipping was always an extra charge. All currently open orders and all orders placed before August 1, 2018 will not be subject to this added shipping charge. Furthermore, Soft-Touch Button Foam will return as an option, since it seems that some of you actually do want your buttons to feel softer. For all current customers who have purchased a radio before, it can still be retrofitted to the radio for an extra cost of $15. Starting on August 1, 2018, Soft-Touch Button Foam will return as an option, at a price of $25. At its old price, it was not cost effective to install on radios. As stated before, the old price will be honored on all older Enhanced Radios ordered before August 1, 2018.

Middle TN. York PA is a 1600 mile round trip for me, and while I have no doubt my MJ would make it I don't really have the time free, I'm sick, and my truck doesn't have AC at the moment One of these days I'll find a way to make it to one of these meetups.

Look at you guys having all the fun. I wish these things were closer

The park lock cable doesn't go thru the firewall at all. It loops around from the shifter to the steering column. Its purpose is to prevent the ignition from being turned off when the shifter is not in park. This connection is purely between the shifter mechanism on the floor and the steering column. The floor shifter cable exits the firewall at the base of the transmission tunnel on the driver side. The column shifter cable exits at the top driver side of the firewall.

There are several actuators, one for each "mode door". They're all mounted on the left side of the HVAC box, except for the recirculation door. As Don said it's more likely you have a vacuum issue, as the air will blow out of the upper defrost vent if no vacuum is available.

I notice it says "with American air conditioning" - what about factory installed air conditioning?

Tinted windows will help. Knowing the tendencies of our trucks to leak water onto the floorboards, I'd be very wary of putting things that absorb water on the floor. Duct insulation would keep some heat out, and foil-backed mass loaded vinyl would block both heat and sound. Of course, working air conditioning is better than any of the passive options.

He didn't say how much amp he has, but my first thought is a voltage drop.

I got REAL tired of them dripping water onto my carpet and whistling on my nice truck, so I put them on my not nice truck. Don't do it if you care about water leaks.

I'll try to remember. I don't drive the truck much these days so it will take some time to get many numbers up on there.

Irrelevant to the thread, but I have an '87 cluster in my '89 and it does have the potentiometer.

Now THAT's a name I hadn't heard in a very long time. I'm on there, and I tracked my mileage for a little while. Wow, I got some really bad MPG back then! Almost all city miles and on an engine that needed a tune up. For what it's worth, my truck gets about 17.5 to 18 highway and about 15 city these days.

Yeah, 2-pin Weatherpack connectors. The lights have the male connector though. (and those aren't Weatherpack connectors in his pic)

Yeah, you can't just unscrew it all the way. It'll hit a stop, and then you push it down to unscrew it the rest of the way. I guess it's to keep you from accidentally completely unscrewing it if the engine is hot?

Not yet ready for production, but fairly soon. I have a few orders to clear out, and then I will be focusing my efforts on that project. Once you have an amplified system, you can't go back :)

How do these fasten to the truck? I see clamps in Limey's post, are those for the cover? I'm very interested in one of these but I'm not interested in modifying my bed for the cover.

Glad to see one of the precious few true '92s going to a good home.

Before I found the full set of spare tire tools, I just used a large flat head screwdriver. The flathead end of the tire iron will work too (and is what I normally use to work the winch on my 91). Is the '86 spare tire winch somehow different?

It can be installed that way VERY easily if the person working on it either didn't know how it's supposed to go or wasn't paying attention, and it's no harder to install "wrong" than it is to install it "right". The LSV linkage needs to be unbolted from the diff, and the arm that comes directly from the LSV needs to be rotated 90 degrees CCW - that is the correct position. I know this because I hooked mine up as in your pic back in 2012, and about 3 years later someone saw a picture of it in my build thread and told me how it was supposed to be put on. As it is, it is sending minimal fluid to the rear brakes, and so your rear brakes are probably not doing any meaningful work at all. I noticed an immediate and drastic improvement to my brakes after installing it correctly, and even more improvement after adjusting it as described here: