Minuit

I wonder what magic pixie dust they put in the cap and rotor to make the electricity go faster? Don't waste your money.

Oh, that part? That's where my collection of NOS AMC radios goes. It's gonna be my retirement fund, I guarantee it!

I have what I'm pretty sure is a Spectra tank. It definitely has a sump on the bottom, but I couldn't tell you if it was different from the old tank. The metal seems fine to me. It may be thinner than an OEM tank but not enough for me to make note of it. The metal on the Spectra tank is definitely thicker than the old tank was on the bottom... but any metal at all is thicker than that My '89 has the original tank in it still. If it means that much to ya I can go measure the thicknesses at the seams tomorrow.

Have you verified that the rear drums are actually working? If the shoes are not properly adjusted, the pedal will feel like crap no matter how well the system is bled. I've worked on many, many rear-drum-brake vehicles, my MJs included, that had no other problems except the rear brakes being out of adjustment. Just last month, I worked on an acquaintance's Saturn with a very, very similar complaint. It turned out to have a broken adjuster cable in one of the rear brakes. Assuming the PO actually put the drums back together correctly (and this is far from certain), find somewhere where you won't bother anyone and do some alternating forward and reverse stops and see if the pedal starts feeling any better. You can also try working the parking brake. If that makes the pedal feel better suddenly, the problem definitely lies in the rear drum brakes. What went wrong when you tried to bleed the bypass?

Manual or automatic transmission? While we're at it, fill out your signature with year, engine, and transmission at the very least. We can't help if we have no idea what you're driving.

Wow... that's just asking to get smashed by something.

That is correct. If I could find out what the stock connector was, I'd try to source the female end of it and make an adapter first, but knowing Jeep, the stock connector is something weird and no longer available. I'd love to be proven wrong on that though. I can't actually figure that out for myself, because neither of my trucks have the stock connector anymore.

These are great. I have them in my 89 and I think they're actually a little brighter than the Euramtec ones. Bonus points for the splice haters among us - these lights use a 3-pin Molex connector that's still available, so you don't necessarily have to splice a pigtail in!

I'd prefer the logo on the front only.

I think my eardrums just offed themselves simply from the sight of that thing.

It certainly doesn't help that it's been copy-pasted ads and all from some other site, but this was anything but economically written. Not that I have a right to judge. As someone who used to read a LOT of car and tech blogs, most internet writers are nowhere near as good as they think they are. Probably because their writing experience consists of getting into slap fights on VWVortex.

I've seen and done a lot of crazy things in the name of details, but I have NEVER... EVER heard of someone re-bluing axles as part of a restoration like this. You're an absolute madman and I love it. The fact that I'll be providing the tunes for this build is just icing on the cake And as someone who's just cleared enough space in his garage to park the MJ in and walk around it, there is one simple truth: No matter how big it is, the garage is never big enough.

I keep track of my vehicle maintenance with a binder full of "worksheets" where I write down mileage and date of fluid changes, etc. I add a new sheet about once every two months and keep track of fluid level and condition, tire tread depth and so on. I can share the sheet template if anyone would be interested. I would never roll back my odometer to 0. I know you don't mean to cause any misdirection by it, but it would personally sketch me out if I were to do it. I'd probably source a replacement gauge with as close a mileage as possible and either live with that or have the mileage adjusted to be correct. It's not like those gauges are hard to find after all. But that's if having a correct odometer matters to you, which it does for me.

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I like that Puma dash. A lot.

Going back to this: I went and tested the belts in my '91 (read: stomped on the brakes really hard on a closed course) and they are definitely the "Type one" that AZJeff talked about. They won't lock no matter how hard I yank on them but lock immediately and consistently under even slightly hard braking. Obviously not a bad idea to test your own belts, but you shouldn't be concerned right away if they won't lock simply by pulling them.

I think the one thing we can all collectively agree on is that a relay harness of some kind is an absolute no-brainer. Brighter headlights AND no more melty headlight switches? Sounds like a good deal to me.

I hate those damn things with a passion. They did away with them later on and replaced them with standard schrader valves thankfully. I've still got my old compressor sitting around. I could yank those fittings off of it and send them to you if you'd be interested. I don't remember them ever leaking - one of the few components of the original system that didn't.

Pretty sure that thing's been for sale for as long as I've owned a Comanche, maybe longer.

PM sent.

Kind of a bump, but this almost got me today. I noticed that the battery would go dead after a few days and found a 250ma parasitic draw on the DOME fuse. I tested all of the easy stuff on that circuit but forgot about the glove box light. I was about ready to take the dash apart to test the other components (radio, clock, etc) but I read this thread first. Sure enough, the glove box bulb was piping hot even though I haven't opened the glove box in several days. Good job and thanks for posting your fix, because it saved me hours of frustration!

I'd love to have a sweatshirt or hoodie with this logo:

I think SP-15 is just Sanden's own brand of PAG oil. This is a newer compressor specifically for R-134a. As far as I can tell it's practically identical to the old R-12 compressor with different fittings on the back though. If this noise is just the normal Sanden noise, that's fine with me. I have heard other A/C guys call them noisy. I just want to make sure it's not about to explode! I'm pretty sure my 1996 Thunderbird still has its original FS10, and it's pretty much completely silent, but I don't really have a baseline for normal with one of these Sandens. FWIW - the old compressor leaked out of both the front seal and the seam where the back plate fastened to the main body. If you ran it long enough it would start to foul the belt with oil. It also sounded a lot like this new one (even had the same rumble inside the cab), but I always thought that was because it was old and worn out. Thanks for responding!