Minuit

And leak.

Last time I checked, the actual motor (p/n 56002858 for a 1991) was no longer available. I bet if the dealer can even get you one, it'll be a Crown Automotive knockoff. If their own picture is to be believed, it won't even have a plug on it.

Aftermarket parts in a nutshell. Unfortunately I don't know where to get a non-garbage new blower motor these days. The last time I needed to replace one, I went to the junkyard armed with a 12V tool battery and tested motors before I removed them. I eventually bought the one that moved the most air with the least noise.

That does look pretty good. How was the fitment? Any modifications needed to the panel?

Correct. The XJ Wagoneer has combined turn and brake lights just like the MJ. Someone must have thought it looked better that way I guess. For what it's worth I think the Wagoneer tail lights look better than the Cherokee tail lights.

HO too. It was eventually eliminated in 1997. In fact, a set of 97+ heater hoses are a common way to delete the valve.

The brake lights and the hazards use the same bulb filaments, and they can't be both blinking and solid at the same time. Ultimately one function has to trump the other, and on the MJ that's the brake lights. I've never really understood why they did it that way (it's not like they didn't know how to make separate turn signals) but it's the way it works.

Normal.

When this happens gradually, it's usually because of crud from 30 years of oil leaks getting inside the starter. If it happened suddenly I'd be looking at the connections first. Refresh the connections at the starter and battery and check voltage at the starter when cranking.

Good points. I might have overreacted by saying 250psi was too high, but that level of fluctuation is definitely not ok. We need more information. As much as you can tell us. Are these readings being taken on a vehicle that's been running for a long time? Is the electric fan running when the compressor kicks on? What do these "fluctuations" look like - is the gauge rapidly bouncing around between 165 and 250 or is it a more gradual movement? A video of the gauges with the system running would help. Some more thoughts: - Let the engine cool and get the truck out of direct sunlight if possible - in general, get the temperature of the system as close to ambient as possible. Take a static reading of the pressures with the truck off. For this, there is a single correct pressure that depends on the temperature. If it's any higher than that, you have contamination in the system and you have work to do. - Spray a mist of water on the condenser and see what the high side pressure does. - I HATE working on systems that I don't know all of the contents of. For all we know, whoever charged it last may not have vacuumed the system down and there could be a bunch of air (and therefore moisture) in the system. The only way to know for sure is to recover the system, vacuum it down to 30inHg, and start over. - What exactly did you put in? Was it a can of pure R-134a+dye, or did it have any oil or additives in it?

250 psi sounds WAY high for 75 degrees ambient, and it should not fluctuate like that when the compressor is running. 165 would be within my expectations at that temperature, but nowhere near 250. Pressures that high make me think you've got a restriction in the system. Do you know what was in the system before you charged it? What is your static pressure? - should be roughly the outside temperature in Fahrenheit and the same on both sides.

Yeah, I bet that A/C works real good when there isn't and never was any A/C equipment installed on the vehicle

Getting a laser printer has been one of the best decisions I've made in the last few years. Mine is a Brother MFC-9130CW. I use it for pretty much everything. The color printing is acceptable quality, and the scanning is excellent quality. I have it set up to print and scan over wi-fi using their software. It prints very quickly and doesn't make much noise at all, which are two things that have bothered me about every inkjet I've owned. More importantly, it has never once just decided not to work like nearly every inkjet printer I've had the displeasure of using.

$9000 should get you something special. This isn't really that, it's just in better than average shape for a base model 1990 MJ. A base model with no A/C at that. For myself and most of us to recommend you spend $9k on a Comanche in today's market, it's gonna have to be one of four things: A low mileage true survivor that's as it left the factory with almost all original parts and no aftermarket crap on it. A tastefully restored vehicle with exceptional quality work all around and all of the features people look for (A/C that works, a very well done paint job, full-time 4WD, bucket seats, power windows and locks, etc.) A questionable but flashy pavement princess. I personally wouldn't pay $9 for one of these, but these are normally what go to Barrett-Jackson. A purpose built wheeling truck. This isn't my cup of tea, but these are Jeeps after all. Things that stick out at me. Keep in mind that I'm a purist curmudgeon and your mileage may vary. - I don't know what those wheels are, but they aren't stock. They look kind of like the factory turbine wheels, but not quite. - Speakers mounted outside of the door panels. I bet this truck was a radio delete and they just cut holes in the door panels where the speakers go. You're gonna kick those speakers every time you get in or out of the truck. - Aftermarket radio sticking way out of the dash. The dash bezel was probably cut to mount it. IMO there's no way to make a new aftermarket radio look good in these trucks, but there are better ways to do it than that. - It doesn't have A/C. Once again, this was a base model truck. If this bothers you now, just wait until you actually have the truck and wish you would've spent nearly $10,000 on one with A/C that worked. - There's a chance that the instrument cluster was swapped in. You could order a SporTruck with full gauges, but it's not seen often. Almost nobody that swaps an instrument cluster makes sure the mileage is correct. - It has the typical aftermarket rear bumper that always gets put on these. A $9k truck should have an original bumper. It looks off and doesn't protect as much as the factory one does. The original was either damaged or it didn't come with a rear bumper. If it didn't come with one, it makes the already fishy option list of this truck look even fishier. As a side note, this is either the most highly optioned original SporTruck I've ever seen or it was a base model that someone added options to. That's very easy to do, and not usually a downside. It does cast some doubt on the mileage, though. Don't take this as me saying the mileage is 100% not correct, but it's so easy to alter the mileage on these that you should keep it in mind.

If you think that's bad, you should've seen my original filter. The gas tank was rusting from inside and the stuff that drained out of the filter was... not nice. It's been almost seven years and I still haven't washed the taste out of my mouth. Don't tip the filter backwards when you're taking it off, folks. My last filter had about 10k on it or so. I changed it last month when I fixed my gas gauge and what I drained out looked like black sand. There was some in the bottom of the tank too. Must have been from 4 years of filling up at a tiny old gas station that was right next to my apartment. Still ran fine though.

We used one of these for my senior design project in school. I strongly recommend using these, if for no other reason than to make it look professional when you're done. If I were doing it again I'd probably use nicer connectors than came with it - if I remember correctly, they're just standard 1/4" quick connect terminals. Some of the connectors didn't want to stay in the box. If I ever get off my a$$ and build a new front wiring harness for my trucks like I keep saying I will, I'll definitely be using something like this.

Before you do anything, make absolutely damn sure that you know exactly where the water is coming from. Spread some baby powder along possible leakage paths and have someone blast the truck with a hose from all directions, preferably with you inside watching. The front and rear windshields are sealed in with urethane like most other car windshields. The "gasket" around it is cosmetic. The only real fix is to remove the windshield and re-install it with new urethane. There is a non-zero chance of breaking the windshield doing this, and for that reason it might be hard to find a glass person brave enough to do it.

Damn. I can feel my arteries plugging up just at the sight of that.

Our trucks have problems keeping the water out. Any seal is a likely leak point. Both the front and rear windshields are common leaks, as are the wiring bulkhead, antenna grommet, and the HVAC bulkheads at the blower motor and where the heater and AC lines pass through.

You're right. I looked it up and that makes it a little less ridiculous. The coil looks very, very much like the aftermarket one I took off my truck a couple of months ago, just with an extra yellow sticker. I'd be very curious about its specs, and even more curious about who manufactures it. I'd say there's at least a 50% chance that it's just some random aftermarket coil with a fancy sticker on it.

Almost five years ago, I spent roughly $30 on a "tune-up kit" with a cap, rotor, and a set of spark plug wires that are still on my truck today. The cap and rotor at least claim to have brass contacts. That very same kit is still for sale on Rockauto for $24.79 before shipping. The #1 failure point of a cheap spark plug wire is the connectors, which on cheap wires will just break and leave the connector on instead of coming off cleanly. My "cheap $@!&" hasn't ever done that to me. Since installing that kit, I've unhooked the wires several times with absolutely no problems. Even if they did break? I paid thirty bucks. They don't owe me a damn thing at this point, and I have the equipment and supplies to put a new terminal on them myself. Besides, I don't go around unplugging my spark plug wires all day. If you've read any of my posts at all you know how worked up I get about cheap aftermarket parts. I'm all too aware of the cost of buying cheap $@!&. I've been burned by cheap garbage enough times to know better. But some things don't have to cost an arm and a leg. As to the 2.5L and its A/C compressor being in the way - that's an unfortunate problem with the 2.5L. I'll give you that. The "pixie dust" comment was in regards to the claims that these companies make that are often half-truths at best, and sometimes outright BS. Do I think that a "performance" cap, rotor, and wire set will make any difference whatsoever to the performance of OP's engine? Absolutely not! The only thing that those parts do is transfer a spark from the output of the ignition coil to the plugs. As far as I'm concerned, they either work properly or they don't, and the only way he'll notice any difference is if the old parts are bad to begin with. I see it the same way as I see extremely expensive speaker wires that are supposed to make a stereo system sound "warmer" or whatever adjective they're using that day. It may be high quality, but at the end of the day, it's wire. It either conducts or it doesn't. Does that "Screamin' Demon" coil output a higher voltage spark than stock? Maybe. Will it let you open up the spark plug gap? If it is higher voltage, sure. Is it too high of a voltage for the factory wires? (and don't worry, they can sell you the perfect solution!) I have to admit, I kind of laughed at this, but let's just say it is. Does any of this make a real, measurable difference? That's the real question, and I'd love to see some qualitative evidence that it really does. I put absolutely no faith in any manufacturer's marketing copy unless I can find real data. None of this has to do with the OP's actual question. He's clearly interested in a performance gain. I think he's barking up the wrong tree looking at the relatively well-designed ignition system for a performance gain. Eagle kindly did the Google work for me and showed that this "Firepower" ignition costs more than $200 for a cap, rotor, and wires. I spent $30 on stock replacement cap, rotor, and wires damn near five years ago and I've never had any sort of problem with any of it. I also spent $40 on a kit that included, among other things, a new Mopar ignition coil. That puts me at $70 for all new ignition parts, and they've been utterly reliable. If he's after performance, he should buy stock replacement parts and spend the rest of his money elsewhere. Before he spends any money on performance stuff, though, he should make sure his engine is running properly in the first place. Start off with a check for OBD codes, then move on to a compression test and maybe clean the throttle body and IAC motor. If he's feeling fancy, maybe hook a scanner to it and see what the fuel trim and O2 sensor situation looks like. The highest voltage ignition coil in the world isn't going to help if his engine has a dead TPS and 70psi of compression on all 6 cylinders. It won't anyway. There. I've said my piece.

Measure your ride height to know for sure. It looks like it has a lift in the front. Not sure on the rear.

Maybe BaT has changed since I last followed it, but I was kind of expecting the first MJ on there to be a stock survivor. Still, looks fairly solid. I don't love the wheels and I'm not sure why they didn't just swap in a full gauge cluster (it's not that hard to have the mileage corrected especially on a Renix cluster) but it will still be very interesting to see what it goes for. I really would have liked to see pics of the floor pans too.

Good stuff. Subscribed.

People with Renix era trucks will want the front end trim and grille if in good condition, especially if it's chrome.