Minuit

If that's the way this group is going to treat people who wander in and want to talk to us, then I want no part of it.

It takes a lot to "clog" the block. If your coolant looks like anything better than thick, gloopy, rusty Dexcool mud then I strongly doubt your block is clogged. Even then I think it's a stretch. The Renix cooling system can be a pain to bleed. Your pressure cap might not be holding pressure. There's a lot more things to check before you jump to your block being clogged up. In fact, if you're really boiling at 220 (there's another thing - you need to make sure your gauge is accurate) it's almost certain your system isn't holding pressure.

4.5 month A/C Update! The A/C works great. No performance-related complaints whatsoever. Never once has the system done the "warm-cold-warm-cold" thing. The compressor runs almost continuously on max and leaves the suction hose freezing cold, which indicates to me that this system has performance to spare. The compressor doesn't get excessively hot during operation and continues to spin very smoothly. As you'd expect, there is a small power loss with the compressor running, but nothing much. I hooked up the gauges and checked the running pressures for the first time since charging. It was about 75 at the time. These numbers are pretty much exactly what I'd expect. Air still gets cold too. As to the "compressor" noise, it hasn't gotten worse or better. Funny thing is, this vibration is noticeable literally nowhere but inside the cab and only at or near idle. This makes me think it's a vibration being transmitted through a line, instead of coming from the compressor itself. Edit from the future: I have determined that the noise is the compressor pumping pulses being transmitted through the evaporator into the cab. When "listening" to the expansion valve and evaporator lines with a screwdriver, the distinct pumping pulses of each cylinder on the compressor can be heard. To my ear, it sounds like an approximately 100 Hz sound, which would be about right for a 7-cylinder compressor at 850 or so rpm. It sounds nasty, but that means that the sound definitely isn't the compressor grinding itself into a fine mist of particles. I'll see what I can come up with to address the transmission of the vibration. I'm missing one thing to complete the job. The XJs that used this system from the factory had this sticker on the radiator support. I'd love to find a NOS label, or otherwise have it made. NOS labels supposedly exist but run at least $20...

I can think of two ways to make them seal while leaving them operable. I haven't tried either of these, so do with them what you will. - Use some type of pasty sealant at the step where the window channel ends. This would work right up until it wears away, you forget to reapply the sealant, and the windows leak all over your carpet, door panels, and speakers. - Replicate the metal track along the rest of the window somehow. I don't have a set of windows nearby right now to check, but this might just move the problem somewhere else depending on the shape of the gasket. Replacing the pivot pin if it's worn may help, but obviously won't fix the problem since they leaked when they were new. You'd be correcting a faulty design, not repairing them to original function.

The 2.8L always had a badge as did the 4.0 from what I've seen. I haven't seen a 2.5L badge after about 1987, and even then I don't think they always had a badge.

Keeper.

Yes. It's to aid heat transfer from the coolant to the core. Hard to say how much more efficiency it'd give without getting into math that I'd rather forget (and mostly have forgotten)

They're the rear cargo area lights out of the boxy S10 Blazers and whatever else they called them.

That looks to me like a 5mm T1.75 wire lead bulb, but it might be a 3mm T1 bulb. Both were extremely common in electronics of the time and are still readily available in 12V versions. My experience is that they last for a very long time, but they do burn out eventually.

Honest question, I've never tried - is it even possible to remove the dash pad of either the 84-96 or 97-01 dashes without destroying it?

I'd be curious just how much more rigid an MJ with solid floors is than one without.

As for the leaks, the fuse box bulkhead connection is a major leak point.

You can use five-wire relays any way you like, it's just that switching 12V between two devices is a fairly common use of them. In this case, the normally closed (i.e. the relay coil is not "on") contact of the relay serves to ground both sides of the compressor clutch and diode. I assume this is to shunt any flyback voltage to ground and protect the diode (which is also there as flyback protection). When coils and other inductive loads close, there can be quite high voltage surges that can cause damage to electronics. That's also why you'll often see diodes across the coil of relays. Same idea. When the relay is active, the clutch receives 12V and engages, turning the compressor.

It works! The DIN cable leads to a header on one of the circuit boards. The service manual has a pinout for this header, and so it's a relatively easy job to backprobe the connector to apply power for testing purposes. It runs on a standard 12V supply from the amplifier module and draws around 0.5A at idle. As a side note, it uses the same display and many other components as the RX-170, which in my opinion is one of the best radios of the entire 1984-1996 era. If you shine a light into the RX-170 (and maybe the later displays too) you can see the segment for the DNR function, which is used only on this model.

I can confirm that the pivoting vent windows are a pain in the @$$. I have air conditioning in my '91, so their only real use to me is as a novelty. But that novelty is not worth them leaking all over my carpet. I pulled mine from a '93 and the passenger side was fine, but the driver side dripped a little water every time there was anything more than light rain. The gaskets don't make a positive seal at the front corner of the window, and I've always wondered why they designed them that way. A friend in college had a '93 Toyota with a similar design of window, but they didn't leak on his truck.

SQUIGGLE SQUAD, ASSEMBLE! Yep, '91 only to my knowledge, but they came in a variety of colors. I've seen blue and red/black, and I think there may have been an all red version too. There's a few of them on the MJ registry under the 1991 year.

On the topic of weird stuff... These show up fairly rarely on here, usually accompanied by the amplifier module and the sentence "what the hell is this?" Answer: Mitsubishi designation CZ-150, it's half of the highest-level audio system in the 1988-1992 Eagle Premier. And now I have one. So what is it really? It's an AM-FM tuner, preamplifier, and cassette player. The radio tuner has some functions over the standard models such as National Semiconductor's DNR, the same noise reduction system used in the AMC RX-135. It also has scanning functionality as well as Dolby for the tape deck (which is exactly the same module used in the RX-170) Since it's not designed to work on its own, it doesn't even have the ability to control the volume by itself. All of the other functions, including volume, balance/fade, and equalization are handled by a second DIN-sized amplifier/equalizer unit. I don't have one right now, but I may be getting one in the future to play with. More importantly, it's exactly the same size and shape as the regular XJ and MJ radios. Here it is with an XJ bracket on it to prove it. Even better, I have the service manual! It's very thick, much thicker than any other radio service manual I've ever had. Much like the mainstream Jeep units, these were unusually well-built and fairly sophisticated for a car audio deck of their time. There are a lot of things going on in this unit, and a lot of parts inside. I'll make a scanned version of this service manual available freely at some point in the future. So what am I going to do with it? Fix it if it needs fixing, and put it in my truck of course. And I plan to document the entire process. I have a basic plan formulated in my head, but it'll take a while to put the pieces together in practice.

Check for moisture in the distributor cap.

Many of these cheap LED headlights have really terrible optics and just throw the light everywhere. Those are worth getting mad over. But there are plenty of LED headlights on the market that have safe and effective beam patterns. DOT approval doesn't automatically make them good, it just means they are approved for road use and probably means they aren't actively unsafe to everyone on the other side of the road if you bother to aim them properly, but far too many people don't. This is a good read if you haven't seen it. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

Here is what mine look like. These are XJ sliders swapped onto original MJ floor pedestals, but it should look the same either way. (front of seat) (back of seat) There are two sets of rivets I would call "retainers" - two on the end of each bottom rail to limit the seat's travel and help hold the rail onto the pedestal (I have replaced these with bolts), and four on each upper seat track to keep the rollers from falling out. These also hold on the brackets the seats bolt to. I did not remove the top four retainers to get the rollers out to swap my tracks, and you shouldn't have to to get your rollers back in. You should be able to do it by removing the nut+bolt at the end of the track, letting the seat slider "over travel" and slipping the roller in. It would be a lot easier to do this with the seats removed from the sliders, so the two rails aren't connected together.

It's been a little while since I've had the seat mechanisms that far apart. I want to say the retainer is on the "seat" side of the track rather than the "pedestal" side of the track.

Those are the rollers that go between the floor pedestal and the seat slider. You can fit them back in by sliding the seat part of the track to the extremes of its travel and slipping them in. They are normally retained by a rivet near each end of the track, but you can use a nut and bolt instead.

Alright, I'll post what I have. I don't have this info for all models and some is incomplete. The source is typically the original service manual for the radios. Tuner Sensitivity, lower is better. Unit: dB µV RX-170: 10 RX-161: 10 RX-135: 10 RX-141: 10 3238861: 14 AM / 15 FM Signal-Noise Ratio, higher is better. Unit: dB RX-170: 50 AM, 60 FM, 46 Tape RX-161: 45 AM, 50 FM, 46 Tape RX-135: 45 AM, 50 FM, 46 Tape RX-141: 45 AM, 50 FM, 46 Tape 3238861: 52 AM, 54 FM, 44 Tape Stereo Separation, higher is better. Unit: dB RX-170: 35 FM, 40 Tape RX-161: 30 FM, 40 Tape RX-135: 30 FM, 40 Tape RX-141: 30 FM, 40 Tape 3238861: 30 FM, 40 Tape Weight, lb RX-170: 4.6 lb RX-161: 4.4 lb RX-135: 4 lb RX-141: 4.4 lb 3238861: 4.8 lb (jesus) Cassette Rewind/FF Time (60 minute tape) RX-170: 90 sec. RX-161: 75 sec. RX-135: 100 sec. RX-141: 75 sec. 3238861: 75 sec. Cassette Wow and Flutter: 0.2% for all Cassette Cross-Talk: 44 dB for all Cassette Frequency Response: 50Hz to 12kHz for all

Maybe, but probably not really. The numbers aren't very surprising and are what you'd expect. The newer radios have slightly better specs pretty much across the board.