Minuit

I have a programmable cartridge for my MT2500 scanner that goes up to 2008 I believe. You'd need the OBD2 adapter for it and whatever "keys" go with the vehicle in question. It's been my experience that some GM vehicles don't require a key. I already had an MT2500 for the MJs. Otherwise I probably would use something newer. There's an excellent phone app called Torque that interfaces with a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle that is very capable. I believe it only works on Android phones though.

I dug out my maintenance papers and here's a list of every fluid that's in my '91. Just for completion's sake. Ditto that you should probably change everything and write when you did it and what you put in. Engine: Castrol High-Mileage Synthetic Blend 10W30 (it was on sale). I think I used a Bosch filter this time around. Auto Trans: Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc. It's important to note that it will take multiple changes to cycle the old fluid out. You get around half of it by draining the pan. Rear Differential: Store brand 75W90. A Dana 35 has a lot more things to worry about than what fluid you put in it. Add LSD additive if you have one, but the clutches are probably worn out on it anyway. Brake Fluid: DOT3 of whatever brand, it's all the same stuff. Trade out your bottles every now and then and don't leave the cap off for long, because brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Moisture in brake fluid is bad. Coolant: Store brand conventional green. Bought as concentrate and mixed 50/50 with distilled water. About a dollar a gallon at a grocery store. On a stock Jeep engine I don't see a whole lot of need for the newer fancy coolants. Green stuff has always worked for me. Power Steering: Store brand power steering fluid. Washer Fluid: The orange kind. Use a couple of brands and find whatever you like best... or whatever looks the tastiest.

I used to be a guy who obsessed over oil. These days I just run whatever reputable brand 10w30 full synthetic or synthetic blend comes on sale around the time I need to change the oil. I run either a Wix, Mopar, or Bosch oil filter depending on what kind of mood I'm in. I run about 3.5 to 5k intervals, since that's about as long as I can go without adding a quart and it seems about right for the 1960s tech of the engine. What really matters is that you do change the oil on time, don't run it out of oil, and have a little bit of mechanical sympathy. The 2.5L and 4.0L are durable engines that in my experience don't give a rat's @$$ what oil you put in it, as long as there's something in the crankcase and you're making decent oil pressure. Although depending on your luck, that last part might be optional. There are plenty of 2.5L and 4.0L engines running around on 13psi of hot idle oil pressure and not suffering too much. As for transmission fluid, I've always used Valvoline MaxLife Dex-Merc in my AW4. I'd strongly recommend an automatic transmission cooler of some type for all AW4 owners as the transmission tends to run hot even when not pulling heavy loads. That'll do much more to keep it alive than what brand of fluid you put in.

Check for a constant 12V input on one of the wires on its connector. If that's there, then the problem is most likely internal to the clock. Does it completely forget the time or does it run slow or fast?

I agree. You don't want to break a big piece of sludge free and end up having it clog up an oil passage in the engine. Get all of the big stuff out by hand and then use a cleaner in the oil for everything else. Of course, the best fix would be to take a time machine back to the 80s and change the oil on time, but unfortunately we can't do that. By the way, a u-joint and a deep well 7/16" socket (or a regular socket + extension) makes that back valve cover bolt easy pickings

To answer your question: the tweeter is simply connected to the same + and - wires that go to the door speaker. I wouldn't suggest it, but you can try doing that and see how it sounds to you. If you like the way they sound, great! Sometimes but not always, the + wire on the tweeter has a white stripe. Be warned though. If you're anything like me, car audio is even more of a rabbit hole than the trucks themselves. You'll find yourself going crazier and crazier to find something that makes you happy.

The factory wired the tweeters in parallel with the main speaker and relied on the 8 ohm impedance of the tweeters to keep them from being overpowering. That's terrible and you shouldn't do that, because you'll have the tweeters and the main speakers fighting over the high frequencies without a crossover. If you have aftermarket speakers with their own tweeters, I just about guarantee it'll sound at least somewhat tinny in the high ranges. You do not need or want multiple speakers on the same channel competing for the treble frequencies. As you add speakers to a channel, you make it exponentially harder to tune and make actually sound good. To make it worse, they're perpendicular to the main speaker. Say goodbye to any kind of imaging unless you're running a crossover. one more thing: the factory tweeters have capacitors to prevent them from playing low frequencies. That's the only reason the factory tweeter can go in parallel with the main speaker. Doing this with an aftermarket tweeter meant to go with a crossover will kill the tweeter. My advice, unless you feel like building tweeter enclosures in the sail panels, is to do what I did and use those brackets for a proper component set. If I were going for an all-out audio build, putting the tweeters in the sail panel is what I would do. I'm shooting myself in the foot on my truck because I refuse to have any aftermarket audio stuff in view, so I was limited to the less than optimal factory locations, but I would call the imaging in my truck "surprisingly good for having the tweeters at knee level". I suspect it'll sound even better when I get and tune a DSP for the front stage and modify my radio to have RCA pre-outputs.

Yes, as I said earlier. The clock moved to the radio for the '92 model year. Up to '91 and maybe some early 92s will have the plug, although it is different year to year. The 91 for instance has a unique clock with a different connector. Your clock will plug right in.

Yep, it plugs right in. The clock will look something like this when it's working:

I agree 100%. I feel like everyone who does this kind of business has to learn this lesson once. I got burned by something similar to this not long after I started selling radios, and ever since then I do everything on my desktop. All critical info gets triple checked and if there's even a shred of doubt I figure it out with the buyer. Especially if it's an international shipment. The only thing I use my phone for business wise is to read and reply to emails, and I don't even do that often because I type much, much faster on a desktop than a phone. Also - if I'm ever typing out an address on something that can cause formatting problems like FB messenger, I type every line out as a separate message. Might make it a little clearer to see what it's supposed to be.

Hello neighbor! I want to say I've seen this truck driving around before. Looks like it's pretty straight from your pics. Good to see more people from middle TN around here!

I have it on good authority from my mother, who was around the truck since it was brand new, that my original bench was never comfortable. She was much happier with the Eliminator seats I have now. On long trips with the bench, I couldn't make it an hour without some kind of pain. Now it's up there with the best car seats I've sat in.

If you want to swap to a bench, be warned that you're likely to lose some comfort. The bench seat is by this point usually saggy and didn't offer much of any support to begin with. I find the basic factory bucket seats to be quite comfortable compared to most car seats as long as the cushions aren't collapsed. The top-level "wingback" buckets are even better. If you're sure, you should have absolutely no problems finding someone to take your buckets off your hands, and maybe swap for a bench. Doesn't hurt that the covers look to be in excellent shape. I agree that the truck was most likely a special order. Back then, you could order options in pretty much any combination you wanted, and you've got a fairly unusual one.

I recently spent a fair bit of time touching plug wires with my engine running and never once did I feel even a tingle. If I ever got zapped by a plug wire it would be replaced immediately. Maybe I'm just a little weeny, but I don't mess around with that stuff.

300k is no big deal for a well maintained 4.0 engine. If it still runs to your satisfaction, has good compression, and makes some amount of oil pressure, run it and don't worry.

It says it works on vinyl too, but I don't know how well it works since I haven't tried it.

You may be able to find something close, but the SEM is worth it.

The old style belt tensioner isn't so bad once you learn how to reach all 17,000 bolts you need to mess with to adjust belt tension, and assuming you keep the adjustment bolt lubricated. The one on the lower rear of the P/S pump bracket (the one with a fuel line in the way) is a pain. I find it easier to get it from the bottom. OK, maybe it is a PITA after all... I do wish it had an auto-tensioner every time I need to mess with the belt though.

This is how the purist side of the club feels, myself included. It's not like we're going to reach through the monitor and strangle you if you put a 2" lift and all terrains on your truck, but there are a lot of us here who will look down on someone bouncing straight, clean trucks off of rocks. If your plans include irreversible modifications like fender trimming to run large tires, I would advise you to not buy a clean survivor. Also, if you live where the roads are salted in the winter, that rust-free truck will not be rust-free for long at all. If you plan on driving salted roads, I would suggest at a minimum a full application of fluid film or similar to the entire underside, with special attention paid to the rear wheel wells and inner bedsides. Better to not drive a rust-free classic truck in the winter, but that's just me.

I can't think of anyone better to be our benevolent dictator, Pete.

I was in your place once. My '91 was my first vehicle and I started on it before I got my license. The MJ is one of the best vehicle platforms to learn on. It's a blend of old and new technology (although an 87 has more old technology than my 91), and you'll learn most of what you need to become a well rounded mechanic. From the one pic you've provided, that truck looks worthy of your time and a good buy. Make sure to check the floors for rust. That doesn't look like any type of original paint, and on old trucks that always make me feel a little nervous, because the paint could be hiding anything. You may want to run a magnet along the bottom of the cab below the doors and above the rear fender flares. If the seller has a fit when you ask to do this, I'd be a little more suspicious. If it's a manual transmission, they have a nasty problem where fluid from the clutch system leaks directly on the fuse box. Inspect the fuse connections for corrosion and check the plastic frame for warps and cracks. If you see those, you might be in for a bad time.

The first places I would start looking are the wire harness junction behind the fuse box on the driver side and the antenna grommet under the passenger side kick panel trim. Also the HVAC connections on the passenger side. The fresh air intake on the passenger side can drip directly on to the carpet. The rest would tend to leak under the carpet. These are all common leak points. If the water comes in at the rear, the rear window is the main concern, but it's very possible there is more than one path and I would not immediately dismiss the front firewall as one of the possible leaks.

mjeff87 has it right. You need to fix that ASAP. Swapping fuseboxes is not fun. I've done a couple. If you can at all avoid it, do so. If your electronics still work and the connectors aren't heavily corroded, you're probably ok. But you need to fix the master cylinder and clean the brake fluid out of the fusebox now.

The fact that there isn't any pay-for-play corporate BS here is a big part of why I spend so much time here. I am more than happy to donate whatever it takes to make sure that crap stays far away from CC.

Oh, I have no doubt he will. I can see it now: "I reached out to a vintage Jeep club, and THIS is what happened" If we ever had any chance of not looking like a rude, insular, paranoid bunch of a$$holes, it's gone now. Shame. I always thought we were better than this. Kyle, I'd be more than happy to speak to you if you're still willing to reach out. Shoot me a PM on this forum or email me at Jeremy at radio-emporium.com.