Minuit

As a side note, for some radios, I have access to some more detailed information such as signal-to-noise ratios, AM-FM tuner sensitivity, and some other things depending on the model. Would that be of interest to anyone if I posted it up with the rest of the info, or would it just be clutter?

Since we've exhausted most of the "normal" Jeep and AMC radios (and certainly the common ones), we'll have to move on to some weirder stuff. I hope you guys are ready for something a little bit out of the ordinary, because I have exactly that in the pipeline. Check this space in a week or two for weird stuff. If anyone is curious, here are the ones I know I'm missing: - Korean-built copies of the AR-7650 and RX-135, sometimes found with the '88-'96 connector and "Jeep" stenciled on the front rather than the AMC triangle. I have examples of both, but neither are currently working. To add it to the list, I'd really prefer to have a working example to play with and a service manual. Cliffs: I don't really suggest using these. - The AMC AM-only radio, the AR-3900 and AR-3800. - The AMC AM-FM stereo radios with manual tuning, the AR-7550 (1985) and AR-something (1986-1987) - The '84 and '85 XJ DIN-style shaft radios, the RX-758 and RX-752 and maybe some others. I have an RX-758 belonging to a CC member in for repair right now and a service manual, so this one is probably next. - I intend to make separate entries for the 1985 versions of all AMC radios at some point, rather than wrapping them up into the entries for the '86-'87 versions. - Anything else I'm forgetting.

What kind of bearing is in the idler? Is this a normal stamped automotive idler pulley with a sealed roller bearing in it or is it something else? To my mind, the main considerations would be the bearing. If you can find out what bearing your pulley has you might be able to pull up a maximum speed rating for it. If not, there are a few formulas out there to calculate a speed given the size and type of bearing. A stock '91 4.0 harmonic balancer has a 167mm pulley diameter. The idler has a 90mm outer diameter. That means at the 4.0's 5300 rpm redline the stock idler pulley is turning just short of 9800 rpm. Now the pulley manufacturer won't expect you to run at redline for any sustained amount of time, but the pulley is good for it at least in short bursts. I didn't go measure my truck to make sure these numbers were right, but if they are right 9800 rpm isn't a crazy number. If I were in your position, I'd just make sure to use a pulley with a good quality bearing in it and not worry about it. I think you'll be ok.

There's a few ways to do it. The easiest is to hover over someone's name with your mouse and click on "Message". You can also go to their profile and click on "message"

For what it's worth, I glued mine and it lasted until I swapped to a floor shifter.

The factory system that was offered on XJs about this time was an absolute disaster. No MJ ever left the factory with ABS, and as a result absolutely none of the wiring or infrastructure the system would require is present on the MJ. Anything you add will require a lot of custom work. I'm usually an "answer the damn question" kind of guy, but you'd be blazing your own trail doing this. I'm not aware of anybody adding ABS to an MJ before.

Just look at that carpet. The carpet on my '91 isn't that clean and it's two years old. It must have had a loving owner to look that nice after 34 years and 164,000 miles.

Thanks for the kind words John and yes, I do take that as a compliment. If I didn't have my 89 in limbo, I'd be in the market I think. Gotta at least pay lip service to the old projects before starting a new one

Who the hell scraps something like that? If I would've known, I'd have asked you to grab the radio out of it.

I know that the engine sucks and would make my life miserable... but I still want one someday.

Wow, that thing really is the complete package. I don't know if it's one I'd want to drive, but it's certainly something alright.

This. Not long after I swapped to a tilt steering column, I lost my brake lights. Turns out I must not have plugged in the turn signal switch connector all the way, because it was halfway unplugged.

It's hard to put into words just how rare it is to come across one that's optioned that way, and even more rare for it to be in such good shape. I don't think you're gonna find anyone here that will tell you to do anything but keep it stock.

A lot can change between now and then, but consider me interested and considering it more by the day. I'd be considering it purely as a pleasure trip, but an irresponsible number of radios might accidentally and by pure coincidence follow me home if I do go. When you guys posted the last thread I knew right away I should've gone.

I for one would LOVE to come to this show. There is the small problem of it being a 12 hour each way drive though. I'll see if I can shuffle some plans around to make it up there when the time comes.

Beep boop beep boop. Hello Mr. Spam Robot!

Don't forget to keep a couple of stimpaks handy

If the spoiler was gone and it had OEM 5-spoke wheels, this thing would be perfect.

Ditto, for the radio.

Here's a quick graphical guide to what wire does what on the '88-'96 harness. These connector positions are correct for all 1988-1996 Jeep factory radios that use this connector.

Yep, I like them. Goes well with the old school look of the jeep.

That's exactly what mine looked like when it first came out of the box. I laid it out flat for a day or so and that helped a little. I think I totally wore out 2 or 3 razor blades doing all of the cutting.

Time to fill the list out a little bit, with some of the less popular old stuff. 3238861 / 8936000033 Type: AM/FM/Cassette Display: Vacuum fluorescent Years: 1983-1985 Manufacturer: Mitsubishi Power: 13Wx2 RMS at 8 ohms. Features: 5 station memory per band Compatible with four speakers Mechanical tape loading and ejection, using the same design as the RX-141 and RX-161. Pros: - A shaft radio with surprisingly good specs, equivalent to the RX-161. - The internal circuitry seems quite repairable, although it is very tight due to the small chassis. Cons: - Common-negative speaker wiring (negative wire shared between front and rear speakers of each channel) - Uses entirely different connectors than later radios. - Shaft mounting, so an adapter plate will need to be used to install it in a later dash. Not considered worthy of an actual model name for some reason, the 3238861 is what you get when you put an RX-161 into a hydraulic press and smash it until it's as small as it can possibly be. This is the radio used in the 1984 and 1985 Grand Wagoneer, and was optional on the AMC Eagle and various other AMC and Renault products. By this point, the twin shaft style of chassis was being stretched to its limits, and it shows. This isn't your daddy's mono AM shaft radio, and I suspect one in good working order will make you quite happy. AR-7600 8956001980 / 8956001843 / 8982200408 / 8936001430 / 8936001520 Type: AM/FM Display: Mechanical tuning dial Years: 1986-1987 Manufacturer: Mitsubishi Power: 13Wx1 RMS at 8 ohms. Features: 5 station memory Manual AM and FM tuning Tone control Pros: - Very good AM and FM reception - Uncomplicated, and easy to keep running Cons: - Mono sound only, and the speaker connector is only pinned up for two speakers - Grounded negative speaker terminal (+ signal and ground, rather than + and - signals). - Does not use the Jeep/Eagle factory connector - uses two separate plugs for power and speakers, so an adapter will need to be used to install this into a post-1987 vehicle. The AR-7600 is fairly common by the standards of AMC radios, but in 2019 there aren't many reasons other than nostalgia to install one in your vehicle. This radio was used as one of the base options in just about everything AMC was shoving DIN-sized radios into, and is quite easy to find on the used market. If you want the best possible FM reception, this seems like a good candidate. Without any antenna plugged in, I could still pick up radio stations from surprisingly far away easily using this radio. Plus, it's just fun to use. The radio presets are stored mechanically - pull the button out and push it back in to save the current station. One fringe benefit of mechanically tuned radios is that they can pick up any radio station from 530-1610 kHz and from 88-108 MHz, no matter what frequency. This may be of interest in Europe, as most European countries have more closely spaced radio stations than North America.

In my experience, 12 or 35 won't actually turn the check engine light on. At one point I modified the fan to be switched which caused a stored code 35, but it never turned the light on. I've also never had a CEL after a jump start or after reconnecting the battery. I suspect the code that's requesting the CEL is either 22 or 76, but I can't say for sure. I've had that code and a check engine light after starting the engine with the sensor unplugged. Is there damage to the wiring going to it? It's the sensor on the thermostat housing. How does the engine run? Side note: I have absolutely no clue what code 76 actually is. I recently replaced my fuel pump too, but I went down to the garage and checked just now. My truck only has codes 12 and 55. I'm not sure if or how long the system stores codes. I want to say it does, but I can't be sure. Have you tried clearing the ECU memory? Disconnect positive battery terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.Reconnect positive battery terminalTurn Ignition Switch to the ON position but do not start the engineTurn headlights onTurn headlights offTurn ignition off

12 Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 35Cooling fan relay.Check relay and circuit. (can be caused by modifications to the cooling fan circuit. I noticed yours runs during the entire video) 22Coolant sensor or circuit.Check temp sensor and wiring. 76Fuel pump bypass relay circuit.Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 33Air conditioning clutch relay.Wiring to A/C clutch fault. No fault if vehicle is not equipped with A/C. 55End of code.Trouble codes finished or none recorded.