kb3uet

I will check with him. I know we are fixin to start on his 54 pickup. I don't know if they are the same but it would be a cool dash in a hot rod if nothing else.

My buddy and I talked about going last year and didn't because of the weather. He has a 48 Willys restored he wanted to take. Might have to really consider this year. Plus York is only about 45 minutes away! I will definately put it on the calendar for this year.

Thanks for all the input, and hopefully this will be of good use later on down the road. The problem was the blue tail light wire going to the plug in the rear. About 1/2 inch before the plug there was a bad spot and when I unplugged the connector the wire broke. Soldered it back together and so far so good.

That seems like a hot spot. I will start there and keep everyone updated.

From what I can tell no one has ever messed with the wiring in the back. All the lights up front work. I was having an issue with the left turn signal, I had to tweak the contacts in the new socket and life is good with that.

So last night the wife and I were out with some friends, and they told me i had no tail lights. I checked and I have brake lights and turn signals and backup lights, but no running lights or tag lights. Dash lights are still working and even dim with the switch. Fuses look good (all of them, I checked all of them). I did put a backup lamp in the left side yesterday and just for giggles pulled the ground off and cleaned it up a little more than I did before (can't think a clean ground would be the issue but hey you never know). I'm going to get new bulbs here shortly cause the ones in it were sketchy at best, but worked. Checked everything with amber bulbs last night and it didn't make a difference on what worked and what didn't. Any help would be appreciated, I am going to check the plug under the bed here shortly. Could the multi switch, brake light switch, or headlight switch be the culprit as well? Thanks. 1990 MJ Sport Truck. 4.0L 5spd 2wd

They make big hammers and dolly blocks for a reason. Those corners are not that bad to fix just take some time and work the metal, it's metal, stretch shrink cut and weld, if need be (lol). They really are not that hard to do plenty of metal to work with to get it close so you can put just a little bit of mud in there and make it straight. This might actually be a decent project if you were interested in learning body work. With a little guidance it can be done! Plus the bumper will hide most of it just in case its not perfect.

I'm in western MD and have an aluminum topper for sale I took off my MJ when I got it.

Hell yeah! This is a big help in trying to locate lights. I guess when the weather warms up a bit I'll be making a trip to the local JY. Thanks.

Yes, I have checked the cable operated lever. The lever moves and the temperature changes from hot to cold and cold to hot no problems. It's just weird that all the vents will blow hot air except the vents on the floor. The ones supposed to be used for "HEAT" lol, in BI-LEVEL the dash vents are hot as hell but the floor vents are cold, if you switch from BI-LEVEL to HEAT the floor vents stay the same temperature. This is why me and my friends are baffled.

Sweet! I'll have to look that up. Thanks.

Since we are on interior pieces in this thread. Does anyone know who or where I can find the dome lights or B-Pillar lights as they are sometimes referred to?

Sounds like everyone has the same thoughts that I have been having, why one hot and the other cold. I'm thinking I'm either going to tape the vents shut on the floor, for temporary, and one day get motivated and pull the dash and look into the heater box. With no A/C the box shouldn't be that bad to deal with.

From my understanding, and I could be wrong that's why i'm here, if one those lines are broken I should not have control of where to put the air. If the line going to the canister is broken then the air should blow out the defrost not matter where I set the controls.