Minuit

Here are the things that are interchangeable with the 84-96 Cherokee: - Dash, and everything attached to it - Door trim panels (4dr only) - A-pillar trim panels - Full center console, but there will be a gap where the parking brake lever went. The mini console is the same as the Cherokee. - Bucket seats EXCEPT for the mounting pedestals are the same as a 2dr, 84-94 Cherokee - Sun visors. There is a year split here. I believe it's 84-89 and 90-96 are interchangeable within those years. - Seat belt receivers (bucket seats only) 84-94. Everything else is Comanche only. Colors will vary but the parts themselves will interchange. What color interior do you have (or what color do you want?)

This is the only thing I can think of, or maybe the blend door/HVAC ducting is broken in a very unusual way. There's no other way for hot air to come out of one set of vents and cold out the other. The air passes through the A/C evaporator (if equipped), then the blend door, then the heater core and THEN is distributed to whatever vents are open. I think OP's heater core isn't up to snuff (or has air in it), or there is damage to the HVAC box.

Last I heard was 66 dead so far.

#2 or #3.

I can edit the post itself, but not the title or tags.

I cannot add any tags to other people's threads, but I can edit other people's posts, including yours above Pete.

My advice: stop now, and get a proper cluster for the year. The 1992 cluster has an electronic speedometer. Your truck is set up for a mechanical speedometer. You're gonna have to do more than just swap some plugs around to make the newer cluster work, not to mention the difference in tachometers. A 1987-1990 full gauge cluster will plug in directly. Don't mess up your truck's wiring when there are clusters out there still.

I have the option to edit other people's posts. Haven't tried it to see if it actually works.

You got through this in just one lunch break?!?! I've gotta do a better job at rambling then! Yeah, what passes for junk here would make pretty much anyone up north cry. Until recently most of the jeeps in junkyards had better bodies than the ones I see driving up north. I'm starting to see more rusty ones now though.

I love it so much when people justify their stupid prices with "you don't see these very often anymore". Yeah, but that doesn't make your unrebuilt old axle with who knows how many miles on it worth a grand. PS - happy belated birthday Pete

Guess I never thought about that before.

All of this is true. The clocks are generally very reliable (not much inside to go wrong, I guess) but those switches can become a problem. I'd read the hell out of that writeup. As to the clock connector - the radios had clocks starting early on in the '92 model year. I believe they also made significant changes to the dash wiring for the '93 model year. Wonder if they decided to axe the clock connector around this time. Both of my MJs were wired up for the clock (the 89 has the Metri-Pack connector, the 91 has... whatever it has), but in 89 and 91 the radios did not have clocks yet.

You won't need to do this if you also get the floor duct in front of the console and do something to block off the passage for the duct under the console. I recommend doing that, because otherwise some of your heat will end up blowing through the console on the back cab wall instead of your feet.

The 91 is a nice bright green display too. Anything but the 88-90 clock is a good choice IMO. I'm kind of a sucker for a nice vacuum fluorescent display though. Here's the '91 (not entirely sure what kind of display it is, maybe an LED?): Here's the 88-90 (LCD, but with an incandescent backlight.) Note that this much easier to read than it is in real life: Here's the 84-87 (VFD). This clock was pulled from an '87. It has the Metri-Pack connector like the 88-90 clock but looks just like the 84-86 otherwise. It has very bright, sharp digits.

This is precisely why we say this... Swap in a headlight relay harness before it's too late!!!!!!! In this case, "too late" is when your truck catches on fire. The problem is not fixed until you do this. The factory wiring forces full headlight current through the switch, and this is the end result. I would also strongly suggest replacing the headlight switch connector in your case.

If someone wants a laugh, you should ask the seller to describe in detail how they did a "frame off" restoration on a Comanche.

The black connector is an Aptiv Metri-Pack 150 series connector. My 89 had that connector, but you might have to dig to find it. I prefer the older clocks. The bottom one if I remember correctly has an LCD with a bulb behind it. It's impossible to read. The older ones have very bright vacuum fluorescent displays.

I have bought SO many "small brackets" from the junkyard when the clerk has no idea what the part is. I used to tell them what the parts were but now I just keep my mouth shut

Also check the fusebox for any signs of damage and the area above it for any signs of wetness. It happens to be located directly below the clutch master cylinder. If that leaks, then you'll have corrosive brake fluid all over the plastic fusebox and the connectors inside. This caused severe electrical problems on my own manual '89.

I actually like the S10 Blazer lights better than the Euramtec lights. They both require about the same amount of trimming. 30 seconds with a Dremel and you're good to go.

Damn. I kind of want to know what happened to it, but on the other hand I don't really want to know what happened to it.

I need more broken electronics in my house PM sent.

If one of you parts hoarders has a 90-96 XJ overhead console computer (temp and compass displays only), I want it. Working or non-working, I don't care. Would actually slightly prefer non-working. I just need the computer.

It'll hold very specific shapes of drinks... until you decide to make a turn over 15mph.