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90MJ

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About 90MJ

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    Can Spell Comanche

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    NY

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  1. 90MJ

    Fuel sending unit

    I had the same issue recently. I modified a sender for a 87-90 XJ and it has been working well. Basically all i had to do was bend it slightly on the internal side of the tubes and modify the pump mount slightly and it went right in. Only complaint is the float doesn't sit in the slosh pan of the tank so the gauge goes up and down with acceleration/braking slightly. It bothers me but not as much as a non-running truck bothers me.
  2. If I pinch the vacuum line going from the valve cover to the lower port on the TBI it idles perfect. Can I just cap that off and install a breather on the valve cover? Update: I capped it and just drove to work. Idle is steady at about 850. Runs smoother than it ever has since I bought it. Screw it, if it works it works
  3. Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like I already have the brackets when comparing to the pic you posted.
  4. Yes still TBI. Is there an easy swap better setup than that?
  5. All the images I have seen on the internet of the bracket basically looks like just a triangle shaped piece of flat steel with 3 holes. What's so hard about finding the pulley? Will the pitman from the manual box swap to the power box? Steering box bolts up in place no problem? I wish I had a pic of the pump mounting bracket
  6. I have a 90 2.5L without power steering. I want to add power steering. Other than a pump, 2 hoses, steering gear, and different belt, what else is needed? Brackets? Basically the bearing in my idler pulley that is in the position where the pump would be went bad today (yay, another problem with this thing!). This got me thinking, since I need to replace the pulley and I want to add power steering, this is a good time to start this project. Feedback?
  7. Get 3157 bulb sockets from a later model XJ. Use a test light to determine wire function. Solder and heat shrink the connections. Install 3157 led bulbs with dielectric grease. Snap new socket into housing. Do the same for the tail lights. Never look back
  8. I have access to another front beam axle. I am contemplating if I could cut it and press/weld the tubes into a 44 center section for the front. I really want at minimum a pair of 44s under it if I go 4wd. I have stockpiles of 44 sh*t laying around from my Gladiator and will have even more once I swap the 3/4 ton axles into it this summer. Plus I already have lockers for it then. OR, try to find a TJ Rubicon front 44. I am the guy that will do conversions as overkill as possible even though a 44 front is excessive for what I would need. My theory is like the 'take a jacket' theory. If you don't need a jacket you could always take it off, but that one time you need it and don't have it, you'll wish you did. I use that mentality on everything I have ever built. I am new to the Comanche world again after a 20yr hiatus but not new to Jeeps and fabrication. If it wasn't freezing here realistically this post wouldn't even exist, as I would have crawled under the truck and figured all of it out myself. I don't like wrenching in the cold haha. I think a rubicon TJ 44 front would be the way to go though. They sell narrowed 60 rear housings online pretty inexpensive also. It would be cool to run a 44/60 combo thats 5 lug. At least that route I would feel comfortable if I did the AMC V8 swap eventually as well. The thought of breaking axles and things that are underbuilt would keep me up at night.
  9. My rear is a D35 with 3.55. Was hoping to upgrade in the future to a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44. I am torn whether I want to do a 4wd conversion or leave it 2wd and do an AMC v8 swap eventually. I'm really just weighing my options at this point and doing a v8 swap wouldn't happen anytime soon, at least as long as the 2.5 is still alive and kickin'. The 4wd swap seems more practical to me since this is my daily driver and I live in the northeast and rotted out but running XJ donors are plentiful around here cheap, but I don't want it lifted though, just keep it stock height and get the body cleaned up. I appreciate all the feedback from everyone so far.
  10. The plan is to eventually find a cheap XJ for the parts. They are a dime a dozen around here. Was hoping to not have to swap to auto. AX15s can he had for under 200 bucks all day also around here. I figure I could do the whole conversion with a $500 donor. Upgrading to a 4.0 in the process seems like it will be a longer project than I want. If I could bolt the transfer to the current transmission I could have the whole swap done in a weekend providing all the donated parts are in working order
  11. I was just skimming the comments quick at work but now that I am home I read them better. Signature is added
  12. Haven't figured out how to add a sig or pic yet. 90 MJ 2.5 AX4 D35 Shortbox Sportruck as bare bones as they come
  13. Is converting to 4wd as easy as installing a transfer, axle and driveshaft? Would the transfer bolt in place of the tailshaft on a 4spd by simply removing the tailshaft? Are any adapters required? Any special things I should know such as different year compatabilities or anything? Its a future project possibility but nothing set in stone yet. Just hoping to hear about other folks experiences
  14. I will check it out. Thanks! The lower one in the pic is the one i found leaking.
  15. Only thing i didn't do is spray the intake and vac lines, I'm out of brake cleaner. I DID however find an oil soaked vac line a few min ago that was really loose between the rearward top port on the valve cover going to the lower nipple on the intake side of the throttle body base. Replaced that and in reduced the idle to about 900-1000 now. I think i am just going to replace all of the vac lines. The PO let the valve cover leak way too long and everything is soaked under the hood. I replaced the valve cover gasket but can't seem to find the correct grommets for the top of it so it still steams oil mist out. I aspire to make this engine leak free. The firewall and everything looks mint when its cleanes off. Guess all that oil under the hood prevented rust over the years haha
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