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90MJ

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About 90MJ

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    Can Spell Comanche

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    NY

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  1. The doors I picked up to swap are all manual so it should be fairly easy as far as electronics, basically just speaker wires. I even got the key to the locks with them. My original doors are paper thin on the lower 4-5". There is no saving and swapping things. They need to be replaced. The panels are in excellent shape on the originals though. Worst case I paint the ugly gray panels on the new doors tan to match my interior but I would prefer to keep my original panels
  2. Since I already started painting panels today welding extensions is out of the question. Guess I will just cut them. As long as I can use them I am ok with it. The one donor fender didn't have a flare (the one in the pic). Mostly I just didn't want to buy flares lol Also.. will the old door panels swap to the newer doors? I don't plan on doing the interior. Mine is in really good shape and I like the older look. Realistically I wouldn't even be doing this swap if my doors weren't shot and I didn't get all of these parts dirt cheap
  3. Just beginning a 97+ door and front clip swap on my 90. I have read tons of write ups on here. The only thing I haven't seem to be able to find is if you can use the old fender flares with the shorter fenders. Do I HAVE to swap to the newer flares and bumper caps or can I use my original style? Everyone seems to use the newer style. The older style bumper caps and full length flares just look more truck-like to me. Plus the flares join the lower air dam on mine. Any advice about this before I start taking my front clip off would be appreciated.
  4. Update: Vacuum lines... replaced every one of them and left the stepper screwed all the way in. Idle is down to about 1000rpm however I have to pump the gas like a carb to start it cold. Fuel pump and filter are new and I am running about 16psi at the TBI. I am happy with it for now but it still is not correct. Planning on cleaning every ground and electrical connection and also the throttle body this weekend. It is a step in the right direction so far.
  5. Limited slip. Is it an open carrier or does it have a factory trac-lok?
  6. AMC 20 parts are far from obsolete. There is a ton of support for them (CJs,FSJs,AMC cars,etc). The ring gear is just a hair shy of 9" (8 7/8 IIRC) and overall they were not bad axles despite having a bad rep by people who abused them beyond their design. They DO have a tendency to bend tubes under hardcore abuse which can be remedied with either a truss, by sleeving, or both. Unless you are running at King of the Hammers it would probably be fine and will handle the power of a stock v8. Also being from a FSJ it SHOULD have 11x2 drum brakes. I ran my 67 FSJ for over a decade on 35s with 11x2 drum brakes both front and rear. If adjusted correctly a drum brake is a good setup that works well. Sure, discs stop better generally, but if drum brakes can stop a semi truck I am sure proportionally they'll stop your truck. The AMC 20 and Spicer 53 are the two most bashed FSJ axles by people. The internet is your friend. The parts and upgrades are out there. If it is a LSD version even better. If it was cheap enough and it were me, I would get the spacer/adapters, sleeve it, and enjoy having a cheap full size jeep axle under my MJ. If you don't want it and are in the northeast I will happily take that off your hands
  7. Maybe it would look horrible, but I just had a random thought about what a MJ would look like with an old Willys pickup bed and I am not sure if the thought intrigues me or repulses me. Has anyone actually attempted this in the past? Don't get me wrong, these trucks are perfect how they are but I have always liked the thiftside look on the old willys and early J-trucks. I think a stepside MJ would be pretty cool if done right and definitely would be different. My bed is pretty rusty so it got my gears turning. Just curious as to if it has ever been done or if anyone has ever put some sort of stepside bed on one of these that actually looked correct.
  8. Ac and power steering are out of the equation since the truck has neither. By halfassing I was referring to disconnecting it and leaving it disconnected as a permanent solution, not as a troubleshooting step
  9. 2nd update: Upon start up when cold I have to pump the throttle like it is carburated since eliminating the idle stepper motor. Once started it idles about 5-600 rpm for a minute or two and then goes to its normal 1500rpm idle, which is still better than a 3200rpm idle, but it just isn't right. With that said, I may reconnect the stepper this weekend and try to find the actual problem. It seems disconnecting it is just a halfassed bandaid to get me back and forth to work this week and not a permanent thing
  10. Update. Unplugged the stepper and turned it all the way in. Idle is now at 1500 with occasional fluctuation to about 1700. It is warming up to go to work at the moment and still not up to temp but at least it isn't racing as high. So now where do I go to get it into the 800 rpm range? We are expecting a heat wave this weekend in the mid 30s so I may wait til then to explore further. Currently its 12 and windy. I've had enough for this morning. Other than vac leaks is there anything else to check out?
  11. I am eliminating it either way at this point. Anyone have any advice on vac line rerouting and things I can eliminate while I am at it?
  12. I like the "unplug and forget about it" idea. It would be one less part to fail in the future. At that point I would fully remove it and make a bracket with an adjustable idle screw just to get it out of the way. Same with the vacuum lines and wiring. Once the weather gets nicer I plan on eliminating all of the unnecessary stuff under the hood. The truck has not had a consistant idle since I bought it back in Nov., usually between 900-1500 RPM depending on the day. I was dealing with that and not really worried about it, however 3200RPM at idle is far from ok
  13. So ultimately I don't even need the stupid thing? You are saying it is basically going to become an idle screw that I set and that's it? Sounds too easy. So what is the actual point of it? To increase idle at warm up or something?
  14. It has been insanely cold and windy here so I really have done nothing more that a quick glance under the hood at obvious things. I drove it to work today because my wife needed the car and i refuse to drive the Gladiator in the Winter months. All I can say is I drove 10 total miles and didn't touch the gas pedal once, just clutch and shift and it was all go. The stepper motor looks like it is out further than it should be. Either way I want to replace it just due to age (appears original and the truck is over 210k). When I get a day that doesn't feel like Siberia outside I am replacing every vacuum line. They are all oil soaked and soft and it is a matter if time before failure, plus the PO has them spliced and hacked everywhere. My biggest concern is if I swap in a new stepper, is it simply plug and play or not. I have never dealt with one before. If the motor blows up before the part arrives I am at the point I could care less. It will give me a justifiable reason to to swap a carburated V8 in. In the meantime I am hoping I can bolt a new stepper on and go. Is it that easy or is there more to it?
  15. Everything has been going good for a while and I knew it was too good to be true. The other day it intermittently would spike up to about a 2k idle speed when at stop lights but it was only here and there. Went out to warm it up before work yesterday and it raced a hair over 3k the entire time. After 10min of it not changing I shut it off and took the wife's car to work. I didn't start it up yet today but I anticipate the same result. I am thinking the idle stepper motor is screwing up. I don't know much about it though. Can I simply replace it with a parts store one and be driving it no problem or will I need to somehow calibrate it as well? I wouldn't sweat it so much if my scanner would connect to it when I plug it in to the OBD1 but it has no communication with my scanner and I don't know why. Feedback is appreciated!
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