Minuit

A few things you might add: The ECU is the black box on the far right next to the air intake. (for HOs only, the Renix trucks have it inside) The A/C expansion valve is the metal rectangle next to the heater core pipes. The MAP sensor is on the firewall to the right of the "hump"

We're spoiled these days with nicely laid out components on a single circuit board. This is a nightmare by modern standards: You had to be a real man to work on this stuff back in the day! Got a manufacturer or model number for that radio? There's a small chance I could get a schematic for it.

I had the 24mm bar.

That's the thing - I know the sway bar I have is 28mm in diameter. The reason I'm curious is because I noticed less change in the truck's body roll than I expected after installing it.

Does anyone know if these sway bars have a part number on them, or maybe how much the real thing weighs? I picked up a sway bar at the junkyard that's 28mm in diameter, but I'm not so sure it's the genuine article. It came off a ~93 XJ Sport, so not normally the trim people say they come on.

True, but this one is better.

I have the Milwaukee. Love it. Plus, the batteries make an excellent 12V source. Male quick disconnects fit right into the terminals. I use the batteries more than I use the ratchet.

I have that harness BIG LAMP BRILLIANCE INTENSIFIER OF AUTOCAR in my 91. It's cheap, and you really probably ought to at least swap out the relays or carry a spare, but it does the job for stock size bulbs. The wire is 16 gauge if I recall correctly, so high wattage bulbs are a no go with that particular harness. Also, DOT or ECE (ECE is better) lamps only. Don't be that guy who puts those crappy chinese headlights on, never aims them properly, and blinds everyone else on the road.

TCU I think.

Lucky!! The pickings have gotten VERY slim down here in TN. I'm lucky if each yard has one or two pre-96 XJs, and forget anything Renix era.

Words to live by.

Changes for 2018 New products - Introducing the AUX-C1 Auxiliary Input DIY Kit for RX-171, RX-172, and RX-173 tape deck models. Already have one of these radios, but rather add your aux input yourself? Comes with one auxiliary input cable with high-quality gold-plated wire terminals, one potentiometer, and a 9-page full-color instruction booklet taking you through exactly how to do the work. Warning: some soldering and desoldering skill may be required. For RX-173 models, soldering and desoldering is required. Price: $35 + shipping. - I have now acquired schematics and repair documentation for the AMC RX-135. - Auxiliary Input is now available on the AMC RX-135. This will require semi-permanently disabling AM reception. - AMC-era Enhanced Radios will now be periodically offered under the "Classic Series" branding. Classic Series Enhanced Radios feature a rear auxiliary input, mounting bracket, and owner's manual. AMC-era radios were previously restricted to custom orders only, but will now occasionally be sold pre-built with a defined design spec. Classic Series radios can be bundled with an AD-A1 adapter for installation in 1988+ vehicles for and additional $25. Color LED Illumination in the same colors offered in Chrysler radios is optional for an additional $15. Currently, only the RX-161 (with Dolby) (not its nearly identical but inferior 1985 cousin the RX-141) and RX-135 (with DNR) cassette decks will be offered as a Classic Series, with more likely to be rolled out throughout the year. Price: $125 + options. Revisions to existing products - All auxiliary cable shielding has been improved. Standard, Special, and Classic Series Enhanced Radios featuring these new cables will be designated "Mark II/C". - All AD-A1 and AD-C1 adapters now bear stickers indicating their part number and serial number. - All products without their own owner's manuals now come with a separate booklet with warranty information. - All booklets have been revised and are now easier to read. Where applicable, pictures are now full color. - A copy of the product's label will now be applied to the owner's manual or booklet because I bought a crap ton of stickers and I want to use them! - Radio chassis stickers are all new, and should no longer fall off at the drop of a pin. Here is an updated service chart.

You'd think a thermistor would be easy enough to get right. The one I bought was the most expensive one Rockauto sold. The higher end Standard brand maybe? Anyway, the gauge read about 10-20F higher than what the IR gun and MT2500 said. So next time I went to the junkyard I got a few of them and swapped them out until the gauge, IR gun, and ECU agreed. That being said I have extraordinarily terrible luck with aftermarket parts. I'm really not sure why. Broke When Delivered throttle position sensors dead out of the box, multiple GM EGR valves of different brands dead in a matter of weeks, crappy temp senders, weatherstripping that doesn't fit even though everyone else says it fits fine for them, etc. At this point the aftermarket parts industry must be playing a joke on me. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I have an old Mopar sender in mine and the temp gauge covers up the 2 at about 200 degrees. The aftermarket temp senders are hot garbage, try to find a Mopar one if it bothers you enough to replace it.

https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/14834-lower-door-weatherstrip/ I regret to say that I probably bought the last pair on eBay. Woops Wahoo, those door panels and seats look fantastic. Where did you find the material? Looks exactly like the OEM Luggage fabric.

Finished up installing a set of Morel component speakers in the 91. They sound awesome. Noticed that the boot on the drag link is popped and leaking grease... about time I redid the steering anyway. Looked at the 89 and thought about buying it a battery, and then went inside to warm up.

Without seeing your actual radio, my guess has to do with the solder joints. These old radios are prone to cracking solder joints over time. IF it is just solder joints, it's a fairly easy but tedious process to re-solder the problematic joints on the boards. I just got done with this on an RX-135 of my own, the one in the main post with the green screen. Everything powered up, but there was no sound unless you wiggled on the radio. After spending an hour or two resoldering joints it works perfectly now. (if you are interested in having it looked at I do repair radios - see my signature. I do have schematics and repair documentation for the RX-135)

Got a 1986 or 1987 Jeep or AMC that has somehow survived all these years without having the radio harness cut out of it? Want to put a 1988-1996 Jeep/Eagle radio in it? I've got just the thing for you. Introducing the AD-C1 Radio Harness Adapter. Seamlessly connect a 1988-1996 Jeep radio in your 1986 or 1987 AMC or Jeep without altering the factory wiring. Supports 4 speaker channels and power antenna.

Looks like someone took a dremel or similar to the radio hole to put in an aftermarket radio. Don has a factory radio in his truck so it would stick out like a sore thumb.

Those look just like the factory mats. The edges actually look a lot better made though. My mats had a rough life before I got them.

I wonder if that became such a problem at the factory that they revised the pieces for '91. Wonder how many MJs and XJs left the factory with the grille upside down?

Do this. The OBD1 system is pretty limited but sometimes it can point you in the right direction. The ECU is about the last thing I'd suspect. I generally don't hear about them failing often - almost always it's one sensor or another.

You need 10 posts to be able to use the classifieds. BTW - the radio you sent me is still going strong!

Jeep Comanche Superleggera

I was out of town for three weeks, but I'm back baby! I have a lot of catching up to do...