Minuit

Any ad that lists at $1 is an instant no-click for me. If they're too chicken to come up with a price when they make their ad, I'm not going to waste my time trying to beat one out of them.

Try unplugging the module and see if anything changes. Both of my trucks have original wiper motors and there is not very much difference between low and high speed at all. Is this a new motor or remanufactured? If reman, I wouldn't expect much.

Wait, Jeep made a truck?????

Maybe, but I don't see the usual signs of a "system" install. Dash bezel looks fine, and nobody cut up the door panels. If there was anything else in there it's been put back to stock pretty well.

This thing is so stock it even still has the factory AM-only radio. I have to admit even I would have changed that out. Oh, the grille is upside down. It's kind of oddly optioned. 4.0 4wd, buckets, gauges, floor shift w/ mini console, Pioneer package... but the very cheapest radio. Bet it was a special order.

Yep, keep them. They will protect from low speed collisions as said above. They also fill out the front clip and make it look meaner... IMO.

The sticker from the dealer that sold my 91 new is still on the tailgate. Honestly it might be on there better than the paint now. I think it's a cool piece of history but I wouldn't tolerate any kind of dealer advertisement on a vehicle I was buying from a dealership.

The leak from that area on the passenger side is usually the foam gaskets sealing the heater box to the firewall, but it could also be the windshield. On the driver side, 90% of the time it's the connector where the wire harness goes into the firewall. Clutch fluid also contributes to the rust on that side. Basically, check anywhere where any kind of fluid can get into the cab. If I were fixing that much rust I'd be looking for donor metal. The aftermarket floor pans will be thinner than OEM and probably won't cover as much as you need. Other than that, it's a matter of cutting out the rust, welding in new metal, then coating it properly and fixing the leaks so it won't happen again.

Snow is cool and all, but I'd rather not have to drive home 120 miles at 30mph in it like I did about this time 2 years ago. I remember saying to myself last year that I'd have an NP242 in the '91 before winter

Starting in 1991 they made the grille nonreversible

I remember that build thread. I think he did it the opposite way - transferred the old material to a new board. Edit: Yep. I remember the weirdest things sometimes.

"the red truck" ... well, it's more red than it is any other color. "the silver truck" Yeah, I'm boring. Before I got the 89 the 91 was just "the truck", but sometimes also "a$$hole" or "mother@#$%er". Never "piece of $#!&" because that's just mean.

Yep, I'd say that truck has earned at least a few keeps.

Call me a curmudgeon (because it's true) but I'm becoming increasingly annoyed when someone cuts apart a clean, rust-free, straight truck to do something like this. That being said, I do respect his skills. It doesn't begin to make up for slicing a straight Eliminator to bits. Eventually there won't be any more straight Eliminators to cut apart.

Sounds about right for the plastidipped angry headlights segment of the population.

The individual gauges can be replaced, but at that point... might as well just grab another cluster unless you have a supply of known good gauges for some reason or it's the rare '87 only blue full cluster with the late speedo connection. I had this problem on my '87 blue full cluster in my red truck - the temp and oil pressure gauges were reading way too low. I used gauges from an '88 3/4 cluster and it works fine now.

Ah damnit, I forgot to mention those. Mine still look good after more than a year! Just make sure you make your ship thick enough that you have to pound the caps in. If you hit a bump and hear a faint "dink-dink-dinkadinkadinka" sound coming from outside you didn't make your shim big enough

Ravines are the best. The truck looks fantastic.

How to detect a genuine Jeremy's Radio Emporium product. I have been made aware that there are a large number of Jeep radios and radio accessories being sold on eBay and elsewhere under a suspiciously similar listing and description style as what I use on my actual radios. So here goes - as of 12/4/17, if any of the below statements are NOT true of a radio you see for sale somewhere, it is not genuine. For a genuine product, ALL applicable statements will be true. - All eBay listings begin with "(85-87 or 88-96) Jeep (vehicle models) Stock Factory Radio With (features). AMC radios with bundled AD-A1 adapters will be listed as 85-96. - Radios are listed with serial number and multiple high resolution pictures on this "Vendor" thread, the JRE facebook page, and eBay. If a serial number is not listed in text somewhere, it is not genuine. - If any pictures are taken with the radio sitting on a ratty dark red chair, chances are it is genuine. - No cell phones or media devices will appear in any pictures. - All radios I sell on eBay have an auxiliary input. It will be mentioned in the title and occasionally in a subtitle. This auxiliary input will ALWAYS have a female cable end and will extend between 2 and 6 inches depending on model from the rear of the radio. - The female auxiliary connector will be an inline stereo 3.5mm connector with strain relief. I do not and will never include a reel cable or panel mount jack. On radios built November 2017 and after, any edge clamping on the cable will be relieved. The connector itself will read "JAPAN" indicating country of origin. There will be no heat shrink tube or tape applied anywhere on the input cable. As of 12/2017, the standard 3.5mm connector looks like this: - All listings on any platform will include pictures of the radio powered on in full light and low light. On Chrysler radios, the display will ALWAYS be fully illuminated. As of December 2017 no radios will be sold without fully functioning illumination. - No added text or signs unless the text reads "radio-emporium.com" will appear in any photographs. - All products will feature a sticker located on the product in some form. For radios, this sticker will be roughly 2" square and feature the JRE logo and various information. Blanks are always filled in with a black or colored marker and are always handwritten. Beginning 12/2017, all adapters will be serialized. - On Chrysler radios, the fader knob's "arrow" will point towards the passenger side of the vehicle as is correct. - On Chrysler radios, no description or instruction will ever recommend or mention using the aux input while playing FM radio. - A full warranty text will be included in all eBay listings.

Iridium flares are pretty cool too. Come to think about it I had an Android app about 3 phones ago that you could put your location into and it would give you exact times and directions for all sorts of different stuff.

I adjusted my LSV on the '91 this way last weekend. Mine wasn't as "bad" as Fred's, but turning the flat from 5:30 to about 7:30 noticeably improved braking feel. The pedal feels harder and more responsive, and inspires more confidence overall. I didn't have much time to test, but I suspect I could probably turn the valve a little more before premature rear lockup became a problem. In my tests I was not able to lock the rears with the valve at 7:30, but they are clearly being used. After a drive both drums were hot, and equally so. Like the others I am not going to be deleting my LSV. I would consider this worth testing out for sure.

That's "Mist Grey" color code 8019 I think. Bought it from Stockinteriors.

It's a 92-96 XJ/MJ/YJ AM-FM radio I added aux to. That's Pete's Liberty.

Introducing the AD-A1 adapter. Install an AMC radio in your Chrysler era vehicle with no modifications to the vehicle or radio. Splice-free design for high tensile strength, genuine OEM connectors for a perfect fit, and backed by the same great warranty as every other product made by JRE. Supports all 4 speaker channels and power antenna. You will not find a similar product offered by any manufacturer. Price: $30 alone, or $25 with the purchase of any AMC-era radio Applications: For installing a 1985-1987 AMC radio into: - 1988-1996 Jeep XJ Cherokee/Wagoneer - 1988-1992 Jeep MJ Comanche - 1988-1991 Jeep SJ Grand Wagoneer - 1988-1992 Eagle Premier - 1988-1995 Jeep YJ Wrangler Wire and connector color may vary. Expected lead time is currently 2 weeks.