Minuit

The gov't mandated a top speed of 85mph on speedometers for a few years after the national speed limit was passed. I think the actual requirement for an 85mph speedo was lifted in the early '80s. Not sure why everyone stuck with it for so long. That's also why it was so common to see 55 mph specially marked on speedometers for a long time. Also, if you retrofit a UK market speedo into a US cluster, you don't need to do any electrical work. There's an adapter you need to transfer over to the UK speedo, but nothing else. Totally worth it - if for no other reason than to have something different - especially if you manage to luck out and find one on eBay UK that's within 100 miles of your truck's actual mileage.

Looks like a good starter. Lot of extras with it too. He's asking a lot, but if people are willing to pay...

Then it'll be easy. The full gauge cluster from any 1991-1996 Cherokee or Comanche is a direct swap. You'll need the accompanying gauge sending units - one for oil pressure, and one for temperature. The correct full cluster looks like this, and has a white casing.

There are full 6-gauge clusters available that will be a direct swap into your truck with very little other work - just swapping a pair of sensors. If you tell us a little more about your truck and your plans we can be more helpful.

Added caster shims to correct it to 7.5 degrees of caster on both sides. It's never held the road better. Also pumped the gas out of it in preparation to fix the gas gauge... for real this time.

This. I've done it on both of my trucks now. The VIN plate is easily removed with a heat gun and will snap right into place on the replacement dash. Just heat up the area around the VIN plate and once the plastic is heated enough to be pliable, the VIN plate will pop off with the rivets still in it. No need to drill anything. DISCLAIMER: check your local laws to make sure doing this is actually legal. In my state it is, as long as there is no intention to defraud.

What kind of sub is this? Also, definitely check that your ground is actually ground. There should be very little resistance between the ground terminal of the sub and the negative battery terminal.

As the others say, a relay harness is a must. Every MJ should have one installed and it should be one of the first things any new MJ owner does. There's literally no reason not to add one. Several nice MJs have been burnt down because of melting headlight switches. I can't say for sure if I noticed a difference in brightness before and after, but that's not the main reason to add the harness IMO. And properly aiming your headlights is just as important, if not more important than the details of the equipment you have. Don't be that guy who blinds everyone going the other way. The proper aiming procedure depends on the type of headlights you use. There are a number of good H4 and LED headlight options on the market. My personal preference is Hella, but there are tons of the things out there.

Yes. Do it.

I would describe my experience as the exact opposite of "insanely smooth" at any speed. Above 55 it felt like I was driving a paint shaker. Sounded about like one too.

I know this probably isn't your problem, but a few years ago I bought a set of those and had two of four be severely out of round.

There was one, but the ones I've seen look a little different. I don't think they had the curve at the ends.

Hot damn, it's been 3 years already? This truck is looking better by the day. Congrats on MJOTM.

Another thing to check is the connector to the headlight switch. They like to melt. The proper fix for that is to replace the connector and install a headlight relay harness.

Ah yes... the troll option. Gotta admit, the idea of someone doing that sounds hilarious in the worst way possible. I don't have anything to say that anyone else hasn't said already. The 90 is the obvious choice to keep nice. The 92 sounds like a basketcase. If you're going to wheel any MJ, make it one that's in rough shape already.

Thanks guys I don't check this thread enough...

I've been using Rockauto since about 2011 and never once did I see an MJ tail light on there (and I'd like to believe I would've seen it if it was on there)

Top notch work as expected, I especially like it when people go to the effort to add connectors for things

Glad you agree.

I much prefer using front mud flaps and modifying them. Doesn't hurt that the factory front XJ flaps are still obtainable. But at least the brackets will be around for those who want them.

Yes. Someone probably dropped it when changing it, easy to do.

So how much longer will it be til you start making complete MJs from scratch Brandon?

A cracked vacuum line to the MAP sensor did a very similar thing on my '89. Immediately fixed by replacing that line.

Yes, as you'd do with any other vibration damper material. Never heard of the adhesive failing due to heat with Dynamat, anyway. Just make sure the surface you're applying it to is clean. It's been up there for a while and is still in place. No pics, but it's just a full sheet of Dynamat stuck to the roof.