Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About bad_idea

  • Rank
    Comanche Fan

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Pasquotank County, NC
  • Interests
    Metal Fab, Anything with an Engine.

Recent Profile Visitors

221 profile views
  1. I've seen a couple on Facebook Marketplace and CL lately in Hampton Roads area (Southeast VA).
  2. Calipers for my 90 XJ were dirt cheap. Might as well replace them. I really like the Harbor Freight pneumatic bleeder, makes easy work of filling a dry system.
  3. Wow. Clean. Mind telling the back story? Any rust in the undercarriage?
  4. Good work getting it all out. I have been down that road on a couple vehicles (removing super crusty brake lines). I have a trick for you that makes it easy. Cut the brake line flush/close to the flare nut, can use a pair of dikes. Then you can put a six point socket on the flare nut to take it out. Bonus - you can ratchet it out.
  5. Best bang for buck in descending order: WJ Brake Booster Rear disks - depending on axle you have, can pull disks setup from other models of jeeps. WJ Front Disks - bigger than stock, involved install. Comes with other benefits. Lot of work for what I consider minimal return (if you are only looking for better brakes) I swapped to the WJ booster and a 8.8 Explorer axle in my XJ ( I swapped axles for strength and the 8.8s come with disc brakes, added bonus). Was a night and day difference. Brakes feel like modern brakes as far as pedal feel. Perform much better too. Will be doing the same upgrades to my MJ, when I get there.
  6. Am I the only one that doesn't care what the Odometer says? So, I can swap in the UK market speedo into my Renix cluster and run a electric speedo? I assume I replace the cable with a couple wires to a VSS in the transfer case? I assume I would pull the VSS and wiring from any Cherokee from 91-95 or so? I'm not in a big rush on the speedo, still building the garage that I will do the motor swap in. Build the garage, move into the garage, catch up on projects on my other vehicles, catch up on the honey-do list, then I can start on the MJ. Ugh. So I will keep an eye out for a UK market speedo at a reasonable price if I can make it work with minimal headache.
  7. Their site doesn't mention country of origin. In my experience when a manufacturer doesn't mention COO, it's usually China. I'm sure it's a quality product, but usually USA manufacturers are proud to mention it.
  8. You have perked my interest. Does anyone have a link to it?
  9. Are both bulbs burned out? I've done dumber myself, sometimes it's the easy ones that get by us.
  10. Glad you got it sorted. That's a lot of breaks in the wire insulation through out the harness. Sounds like it may not be a bad idea to swap out the harness.
  11. Typically the all aluminum aftermarket radiators are cheaply made in China. Typically. It's usually the welds that are kind of crappy. If you can TIG aluminum or know someone that can, then they are a good deal. I have no experience with that brand, or any other. Just passing along what I have read online and word of mouth from others. Take my input for what you paid for it. Do you have a link?
  12. Looks like everyone answered your question. I swapped the cluster in my 90 XJ when I got it, happy with it. Very simple. Just need to swap out the cluster, water temp sensor, and oil pressure sensor. There are two water temp sensors (on my 90 XJ anyways, not sure about your 92) - one for the gauge and one for the fan. Also, let me suggest you put your vehicle info in your signature line. Saves you from typing it out every post.
  13. I'll do a compression test on it when i get a chance. I'm with you on not firing the parts cannon. I have the 2.5L, not the 4.0L. It looks like the 2.5L has the same CCV system as the 4.0L, is that correct? I have a 90 XJ with the 4.0L, so I am familiar with the Renix setup.
  14. LOTS! I just bought a 90 2.5L 5speed 2WD SWB Comanche. Paid $400 for it and hauled it home on the trailer. PO parked it 2 years ago when the radiator failed, overheated, and he had it towed to the house. Been sitting since. I threw a radiator in it and jumped it. Started right up and ran ok-ish. The rubber 90 on the front of the valve cover is cracked and spewing smoke at idle. I gave it a few minutes to clear up, but it never did. I drove it down the street and back. Parked it in the driveway and smoke was billowing out from under the hood. Popped the hood and there is oil all over the top of the engine. Looks like it was spewing out of the rubber 90 on the front of the valve cover. I assume it's excessive blow-by from worn rings. Are there any other options? I would love for it to be something cheap and easy. I'd like to get some miles out of this motor. I didn't check the CCV line at the back of the valve cover. It may be plugged, but I can't imagine that would account for this much oil/smoke. Could it? I am just scratching the surface on this truck. I will dive into it as time permits. Any pointers? I would LOVE if it could be something simple. Not rebuilding this engine, will yank it and do a motor swap. Hoping to put that off a year or two though.
  • Create New...