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bad_idea

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About bad_idea

  • Rank
    Comanche Fan

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pasquotank County, NC
  • Interests
    Metal Fab, Anything with an Engine.

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  1. bad_idea

    Fuel pump won't shut off

    That is weird. Did you get the issue sorted? I have never heard of a short to power. Short to ground all the time, never short to power. Then again, I am not a mechanic so I haven't seen ALOT of issues. In situations like this I look to prior 'repairs' first. I have a 79 Camaro that the dash lights came on with the ignition rather than the headlight switch when I bought it. That one took me a while to figure it out. Turned out the PO had installed an aftermarket radio. Chevy hooked the dash lights circuit into the factory radio. Radio lights came on with dash lights. When the PO installed the radio he cut the plug off for the radio and twisted the IGN power wire with the dash light wire. I separated the two wires and put a new fuse in the dash light circuit. I drove the car for years with the dash light issue, was never a concern. Only sorted the issue when I had the entire dash torn apart and decided to chase the issue. It's interesting that your issue popped up suddenly. Have you done any work to the jeep immediately prior to the issue? Perhaps you disturbed something that was already a little off? I am thinking perhaps PO rewired the fuel pump due to an issue and 'made it work'. A fuse or relay failed and PO's jackleg circuit design went haywire.
  2. bad_idea

    92 Turbo, Autocross MJ

    Super sketchy.
  3. bad_idea

    Stinky

    Any progress on this one? I like the jack stands there. Did you build them or buy them? Also, I am curious about that hidden winch bracket you mentioned. I plan to stuff a winch behind the bumper of my XJ and am interested in different mounting methods.
  4. bad_idea

    Son of Stink

    Awesome work. What is your goal/purpose for the vehicle? It looks like you are making a 'What jeep should have built' model. I mean to say the untrained eye would mistake it for a factory original vehicle. What do you plan on using it for? Putting around town? Show car?
  5. That thing is TOO clean. Wow. Looks great. I like the setup, especially the fan switch. Thanks for the part number.
  6. bad_idea

    Newbie lookin to upgrade

    If the parts MJ is too far gone to bring back, I say part it and build yours with it. The MJ parts truck will make the swap a bolt in affair with the D44. I assume you can not weld/fit, so I would suggest you go the MJ route if it does have a D44 in the rear. Quick math - $1500 for the MJ. That D44 goes for $300-500 from what I've seen, that's going to be the only part of value to your swap the XJ won't have. You should be able to sell the taillights for $150, tail gate for $100, bed for $100 or so depending on rust, bench for $50-100. Should be able to sell a couple more parts. Should get $75 in scrap for truck when you are done with it. Figure you can recoup around $600 (assuming you sell $125 worth of misc stuff). That reduces your total investment to $900, if you pay the $1500. Should be able to talk him down to $1200 at least. The misc parts you pull for your own collection (interior pieces, MJ specific hard to find little bits) can be priceless. $750 for a rusted out XJ. The rear axle is useless to you because it won't bolt in. To pay someone to weld the MJ suspension brackets on will cost you at least $300 if you can find a guy to do it on the side. Call a 4WD shop and their price will likely be ridiculous. Finding a MJ D44 is rare, so you will be riding on the D35 for a while. The D35 will hold up to mild use. As far as parting out the XJ, I wouldn't expect to recoup too much. You'll be using the parts most folks are looking for on the XJs. Might sell $200 in parts. Same $75 in scrap value. That puts you at a total investment of $475. BUT you don't have a worthwhile rear axle. Finding an MJ D44 or a modified 8.25 or 8.8 will be a PITA and will cost you $300-500 on a good day.
  7. bad_idea

    Two horns in MJ

    No flooding that caused issues to me. No roadway flooding. We received 1.5" rain total between Tuesday and Sunday. The largest quantity at one time was .5" over the course of an hour. We got less rain last week than many days in July. BUT, all of the rivers and streams rose quite a bit. The Perquiman's River just a few miles down the road rose at least 6". Not enough to hurt anything, but some folks yards may have flooded. I'm inland a bit, so no issue for me. I work in ship repair with the US Navy being our primary customer. 316 stainless is about as fancy as we get on stainless for use outside. I would say keep it simple and use 316. It's reasonably priced (for what it is) and can be polished to a mirror shine with some effort. Working it isn't terrible, so fabrication costs shouldn't be too bad. If you get into the more exotic metals then the fabrication costs will go up as you have to use special processes for welding them.
  8. bad_idea

    Two horns in MJ

    If you want it shiny, have the fab shop make it out of stainless. With some elbow grease and metal polish, stainless can be made to shine like a mirror. I have personally polished stainless to see my reflection in it clearly. I do not recommend punching holes in the roof, they always leak. You can rig something up similar to the roof racks that mount to the drip rails.
  9. bad_idea

    Two horns in MJ

    Cadillac horns. Go to the junk yard and look for the big bodied Caddys from the 80s/early 90s. Tucked inside the fenders at the front there are 4 horns, two on each side of the vehicle. They're easy to yank out. Pull the wiring harness for them as one piece, it is a green wire that hooks all four horns together. Splice the harness to your stock harness (can use a male spade connector on the Caddy harness to plug it into your stock harness). Each of the horns mounts with one bolt, find convenient spots for them, drill holes, clean paint off around mounting bolt (the horns ground through the mounting bolt). Sounds like a train horn with good volume. I swapped them into my XJ after I drowned the single stock horn. I also relocated the horns to beside the air box to get them out of the water. It is nice to have multiple horns in the event I drown one again, I will still have a functioning horn. Was a nuisance when I found out my single horn was dead in a situation when I needed it.
  10. bad_idea

    Suspension lift

    It's your truck, build it like you like. While it may not be common, I wouldn't say it is super rare and valuable. You're going to need to run a wheel with less backspacing to fit those tires. I run 33x12.5s on my XJ on 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. Stock backspacing is 5.25" or so. The reduced backspacing pushes the tires further out of the wheel well, getting them out of the suspension area. The tires hang out the wheel wells 3.5" in the front and a little less in the rear. The tires rub on the lower control arms at full lock. Back off the steering a few degrees and no more rub. Only causes an issue in parking lots. Easily solved by putting a few washers under the steering stops to reduce the turning radius. Still turns tighter than my F250, very minor reduction in turning radius. As far as lift height and clearance to lift - I'm on 5" w/ the fenders trimmed about 1.5" on my XJ. The front end is the same between the two, so you should expect similar results. I set my XJ up for off road use. I can stuff the tire into the wheel well but still need to extend the bumpstops to prevent the tires from contacting 'stuff' when fully stuffed. I have zero rubbing on the streets. I have only rubbed a couple times off road. One day I'll get around to extending the bumpstops, probably right after I destroy a fender. I would say 3" of lift will work if you do minimal trimming and extend the bump stops, you will have reduced suspension travel but should be enough for comfortable on road use. The 33s will rub the front and back of the front fenders when you turn. You can trim those areas and still use the stock fender flares. I would suggest you do the lift, mount the tires, do some minor trimming to clear the front tires when turned lock to lock. Then measure distance from top of axle tube to frame rail, lift front of truck and remove the front springs, set the axle at that measurement and then jack the axle up until the tires hit something. Subtract those two numbers and that will be how much suspension travel you will have. At that point, when the front tires are hitting stuff, measure for new bump stops in the front. Install some extended bump stops and measure the distance from the bottom of the bump stop to the stop of the spring bucket on the axle. Add another 1/2" or so to account for compression of the bump stops. Bolt hockey pucks (actual hockey pucks, not a slang term) to the top of the spring bucket on the axle. In the center of the spring bucket there is a dimple, drill a 5/16" hole in that dimple and tap it out to 3/8-16. Drill a 7/16 hole in the center of the hockey pucks. Buy some 3/8" bolts long enough to bolt the pucks down. That should take care of the front axle. The rear axle shouldn't be as bad. I did very minimal trimming in the rear. I have only had any rubbing in the rear when off road, running it hard.
  11. bad_idea

    IFS

    http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/project-trucks/1967-ford-f-100-project-speed-bump-part-2/ Something like above would be awesome. Do some measuring, maybe there is a stock k-member from some car that would fit with minor frame mods to the MJ. Maybe the Crown Vic front end could be made to fit. I'm not interested in doing that much work. Yet. **I realized I posted a link to an entire frame swap. Changed link to another site that shows the swap I had in mind. Basically hack off the stock crossmember and suspension mounts and bolt in the Crown Vic assembly.
  12. I'm with you now. I'm not concerned with retaining the load valve as I won't use the truck for carrying a load. I have an F250 for loads. The MJ is just for putting around town. Biggest load will be the trash cans when I haul the trash to the dump. Thanks for the info.
  13. Awesome build. I got to page 17 where you revisited the WJ booster install. I did the WJ booster on my 90 XJ and plan to do the swap on my 90 MJ. I understand the MJs have a different brake line setup with a load valve and other screwy bits. I plan to build mine as a lowered, v8 swapped hot rod - no heavy loads and no off road use. It looks like your setup is what I need to copy. But I am a little confused. Am I assuming correctly that the '00 XJ uses bubble flares to match the WJ booster?
  14. bad_idea

    what did you do to your MJ today?

    It's on the list of things to do. Somewhere near the bottom Comanche has a laundry list of issues to sort. I got the bench into a comfortable position that the wife and I both can drive the truck. Next is getting the truck drivable. I'll sort the bench when I pull it out to weld in the new driver's side floor pan. Currently I can Fred Flintstone it through the hole in the DS floorpan.
  15. While wandering the site an idea occurred to me. The registry section is a little boring. Mean no offense. It's a section dedicated to the facts. Facts aren't always fun. But I am thinking you could have some threads stickied at the top with facts about Comanches. Statistics on options. Interesting known model options. Maybe an article about the Archer SCCA race trucks with all of the details about those trucks. The rare packages like the Street Comanches. Things like that.
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