bad_idea

I'm headed out of town for 5 weeks in about two weeks. When I get back (early October) I'll see about tearing it down to assess the carnage. Like I said earlier, I'll throw $50-$100 at this engine. Much more than that and I'll put that money towards a SBC swap. I bought the truck with the intention of a V8 swap and slamming it - already have a lifted, capable XJ. Thanks for the help diagnosing it you all.

The smoke out of the valve cover looks white to me. After driving the Jeep about a mile I opened the radiator and found it was half a gallon low. Added water to top it back off and oil floated to the top. I think it is safe to say the head gasket is done. Can a toasted head gasket cause the smoke out of the valve cover? I am willing to throw $40 worth of head gasket and other gaskets at it with minimal R&R on the head/block. Not willing to re-ring the bottom end. Again, just looking to get another 5k-10k miles out of this engine if I can. Not too worried if I can't. Definitely not my daily driver, I have three vehicles ahead of this one before it is.

If I get lucky and it is just a valve sticking - could that explain the large amount of smoke coming from the crank case?

Hi All!I have a 90 MJ with 2.5L and a 5 speed. I paid $400 for it and drove it on the trailer. Previous owner says the truck has sat since 2016 when the radiator leaked out and overheated.I started tearing into it today. Swapped a good radiator into it. Runs a bit rough but runs, drove it up and down the road - has decent power. Blows smoke out of the valve cover. The CCV system is fully operational. Did a compression test - #1 - 120, #2 - 150, #3 - 165, #4 - 30. I did the compression test with the engine cold. I added a bit of oil to #4 cylinder and still got 30 PSI. I'm guessing something is catastrophically wrong with cylinder #4. What says you all?I would like to fix it if I can cheap. If not then I'll let the truck sit until I can find a decent SBC to swap into it.Thanks for the help.

I've seen a couple on Facebook Marketplace and CL lately in Hampton Roads area (Southeast VA).

Calipers for my 90 XJ were dirt cheap. Might as well replace them. I really like the Harbor Freight pneumatic bleeder, makes easy work of filling a dry system.

Wow. Clean. Mind telling the back story? Any rust in the undercarriage?

Good work getting it all out. I have been down that road on a couple vehicles (removing super crusty brake lines). I have a trick for you that makes it easy. Cut the brake line flush/close to the flare nut, can use a pair of dikes. Then you can put a six point socket on the flare nut to take it out. Bonus - you can ratchet it out.

Best bang for buck in descending order: WJ Brake Booster Rear disks - depending on axle you have, can pull disks setup from other models of jeeps. WJ Front Disks - bigger than stock, involved install. Comes with other benefits. Lot of work for what I consider minimal return (if you are only looking for better brakes) I swapped to the WJ booster and a 8.8 Explorer axle in my XJ ( I swapped axles for strength and the 8.8s come with disc brakes, added bonus). Was a night and day difference. Brakes feel like modern brakes as far as pedal feel. Perform much better too. Will be doing the same upgrades to my MJ, when I get there.

Am I the only one that doesn't care what the Odometer says? So, I can swap in the UK market speedo into my Renix cluster and run a electric speedo? I assume I replace the cable with a couple wires to a VSS in the transfer case? I assume I would pull the VSS and wiring from any Cherokee from 91-95 or so? I'm not in a big rush on the speedo, still building the garage that I will do the motor swap in. Build the garage, move into the garage, catch up on projects on my other vehicles, catch up on the honey-do list, then I can start on the MJ. Ugh. So I will keep an eye out for a UK market speedo at a reasonable price if I can make it work with minimal headache.

Their site doesn't mention country of origin. In my experience when a manufacturer doesn't mention COO, it's usually China. I'm sure it's a quality product, but usually USA manufacturers are proud to mention it.

You have perked my interest. Does anyone have a link to it?

Are both bulbs burned out? I've done dumber myself, sometimes it's the easy ones that get by us.

Glad you got it sorted. That's a lot of breaks in the wire insulation through out the harness. Sounds like it may not be a bad idea to swap out the harness.

Typically the all aluminum aftermarket radiators are cheaply made in China. Typically. It's usually the welds that are kind of crappy. If you can TIG aluminum or know someone that can, then they are a good deal. I have no experience with that brand, or any other. Just passing along what I have read online and word of mouth from others. Take my input for what you paid for it. Do you have a link?

Looks like everyone answered your question. I swapped the cluster in my 90 XJ when I got it, happy with it. Very simple. Just need to swap out the cluster, water temp sensor, and oil pressure sensor. There are two water temp sensors (on my 90 XJ anyways, not sure about your 92) - one for the gauge and one for the fan. Also, let me suggest you put your vehicle info in your signature line. Saves you from typing it out every post.

Awesome work. I like the build.

I'll do a compression test on it when i get a chance. I'm with you on not firing the parts cannon. I have the 2.5L, not the 4.0L. It looks like the 2.5L has the same CCV system as the 4.0L, is that correct? I have a 90 XJ with the 4.0L, so I am familiar with the Renix setup.

LOTS! I just bought a 90 2.5L 5speed 2WD SWB Comanche. Paid $400 for it and hauled it home on the trailer. PO parked it 2 years ago when the radiator failed, overheated, and he had it towed to the house. Been sitting since. I threw a radiator in it and jumped it. Started right up and ran ok-ish. The rubber 90 on the front of the valve cover is cracked and spewing smoke at idle. I gave it a few minutes to clear up, but it never did. I drove it down the street and back. Parked it in the driveway and smoke was billowing out from under the hood. Popped the hood and there is oil all over the top of the engine. Looks like it was spewing out of the rubber 90 on the front of the valve cover. I assume it's excessive blow-by from worn rings. Are there any other options? I would love for it to be something cheap and easy. I'd like to get some miles out of this motor. I didn't check the CCV line at the back of the valve cover. It may be plugged, but I can't imagine that would account for this much oil/smoke. Could it? I am just scratching the surface on this truck. I will dive into it as time permits. Any pointers? I would LOVE if it could be something simple. Not rebuilding this engine, will yank it and do a motor swap. Hoping to put that off a year or two though.

I'm mildly sad. I was looking forward to the public outcry when you hacked up the truck. I never meant to sway you one way or the other. Just wanted you to understand how much effort and how involved it is to run 33s on these trucks effectively.

You have my attention. Please continue.

You will still rub at 4.5" of lift. Front tires will rub at the front and rear of the wheel opening when turning. The necessary trimming can easily be hidden behind the stock flares. The rears should be fine. You should be able to drive it on the streets just fine like that. If you want to then start taking it off road, then you will need to do some major trimming or some longer bump stops. Stock tires are 28" tall or so. You are installing 33" tall tires. Thats a difference of 5" diameter, 2.5" of radius. The factory installed bump stops to prevent a 28" tall tire from hitting stuff. To accommodate 33's, you'll need to extend the bumpstops 2.5" to maintain the same vertical clearances. That doesn't do anything for the front and back of the tire clearance, that's where trimming comes in. The stock wheel openings are much larger than the stock wheels, so you do no need to cut 2.5" front and back on each wheel well. But you will need to cut about 1.25" front and back on the openings to stuff that 33 into the wheel opening. That kind of cutting can't be hidden behind the stock flares. So, in summary - You can run 33s on the street on 4.5" of lift with minimal trimming. To run that same setup off road you will need to make the bump stops MUCH longer to keep the tire from contacting the fenders. So much longer that the 4.5" of lift loses it's main advantage - additional suspension travel over stock. You will likely have to restrict suspension travel to a shorter range than stock. Will ride fine on the street and will be limited off road. No free lunch. Bigger than 31s and you have to cut the jeep up to make it perform well. If you don't want to hack the fenders up stick with 31s, the truck will perform better. With 33s it will be like these camels (Notice the ankles tied together): I was driving through the desert of Bahrain and stumbled upon this pen of camels. The camels all came up to the gate and stared at me when I pulled up. Still cracks me up.

If your seat bolts look anything like mine, rusty as all get out, then there is something funky with them. Use your multimeter to check for resistance from the ground lug of the battery to the ground lug of the amp. Could be getting a lot of resistance due to the rust.

I saw the pics in your other build thread. I had trouble making out details from the pictures. Did you build the carrier or buy it?

Truck looks good at least. I like the wheels. Hope you get it sorted. Keep us posted.