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OK, then its an electrical problem. I have only dealt with a '98. So a lot different wiring if yours is a Renix era. I think the HO (90-95) is a bit different. Cruiser's tips are the main source for Renix info. If you can find were to measure the ohms to the solenoids, then measure them. Usually the middle one goes bad. Mine was, and the Transgo instructions stated it usually is. On mine one of the speed sensors was bad. The early ones might only have one speed sensor. The TPS, ECM and brake light switch also have input to the trans. Also, make sure your battery is in good condition. If it is a solenoid, you have two PnPs in Indy. Its been a month or two since I've been to them. There were two '00 or '01 XJs at the one on Producers lane. I did pick the solenoids and speed sensors from the trans laying out. The latter, greenish blue solenoids are suppose to be better than the brownish tan ones. I do have some brownish tan ones as spares. I'd have to see if I have some of the latter ones I can spare. They guy who bought my other XJ didn't pick up a trans I have.

If the fluid level is correct then I'd unplug the TCU and drive it in manual mode. If the trans shifts manually, then its electronics. I usually measure the Ohms for the solenoids at the plug up by the trans fill tube. They should be 13 ohms +/-3 ohms. If you need help, I might be in Indy on Saturday evening.

This^ You can also search car-part.com for an MJ AX-15 crossmember. I did this and got mine for $60 shipped to my house. Also, if you have a BA10 trans, you will need the backing/inspection plate thatsits between the engine and bellhousing. Then obviously the trans and transfer case with all of the shift linkage for the T-case. The 4wd shifter as well. Not sure if the ZJ front driveshaft is the same as an XJ/MJ, but you will want that as well. XJ cross member work? I used on in my MJ, but the NV3550 is tucked up a bit high. Then again I might have used the BA one. I think the ZJ is an inch or so longer. I did a HnT on my XJ. That did come up in discussion, but should be checked.

What are you swapping in? Or are you replacing? Should be just bolt out, bolt in. I just replaced the one in my XJ, PS though. I was adjusting it, and then the front seal was leaking. replaced it with a Cardone. It did help a bunch with the XJ from wondering. Still, wonders a bit. Did you need adjustment instructions or other info?

First check fluid level. Then do as suggested, unplug the TCU. Not sure what year you have. Then shift manually as suggested. If it shifts OK manually, with the TCU unplugged, then its electronic. If reverse works, then its probably electronic. Then I'd check the solenoids, three of them. I don't have the pin or plug call outs. But should be able to check them from the TCU plug. Also, check the speed sensors if you can. The Solenoids should be 13 ohms +/- 3 ohms.

What Eagle said. Try and replace your pressure cap or radiator cap every 5 years. I had this on a 78 AMC Gremlin. Lost coolant. Replaced the thermostat. Nothing. Then read 'Automotive Repairs for Dummies' by Denna Sclar. Replaced the thermostat, coolant kept at the required level.

I've kind of noticed a jerkiness with a heavy load. So, there is sort of an impact on parts with a manual. Not an expert with towing though. The Ford 8.8 does come in 3:73. Probably limited slip available. Also, 4:10. Also, an auto doesn't have a direct linkage, the torque converter is a hydraulic coupling, so it cushions the start up. It didn't have much problems with one of my XJs twoing some 2400 lbs cars on a dolly. Well, looking in the rearview mirror and seeing a car on your bumper.

If you look at the specs, the manual trans is limited to 2500 lbs, the auto to 5,000 lbs. I am not sure as to why you are slipping in 5 th gear. I would agree with the others, larger brakes should be on the list. I think others do not have a problem with higher loads with a manual, but you have to be smooth with shifting. Wondering if it is a preassure plate problem, and the extra load shows it. With an auto, you should have an auxiliary cooler.

I think the main difference between headers listed for the Renix era vs HO is that the Renix has a bung for the EGR system. I think the two listed for them are the Clifford and the Pacesetter. I have/had both. The Clifford you have to drill through a wall in the tubing to 'activate' it. I though Borla or Banks might have made one for the Renix. The larger tubes cover the ports of the years to my knowledge.

I'd also check the idler pulley as for the bearings being good. I did throw a belt a few weeks back. It was mainly that the PS Pump pulley was bent. I did run over a year like that. I stopped at the Trash dump and heard a racket. Someone else commented on it. I turned off the motor. Looked under the hood. Saw some fluid on the ground, it was oil. I didn't drive far and then had no power steering and overheated. Anyways, the belt came off. I limped home, letting the engine cool off. Replaced the water pump, coolant, belt and the PS pulley. Then noticed the idler pulley was a bit off. It runs fine now. Got lucky on the motor.

The 90-99.5 XJ hubs (2.133)are about the same height as the WJs (2.118), if you wanted to retain 5 X 4.5 BC. I think the WJ is about 5 inches wider. I am in the process of doing the WJ brake swap. Hope to get me knuckles welded with the spacer. FIY, someone on the Jeep Form has done a 17 inch rim brake upgrade with '11-15 Durango calipers and Ford Mustang GT rotors, and using '84-89 Jeep XJ/MJ 4WD knuckles with 00'-01 XJ hubs. So far on mine, I have the WJ knuckles, the JKS spacers, Timken '00-01 XJ bearing hubs, lower WJ ball joints (Mevotech TTX). Alloy USA upper ball joints, Akebono calipers and brakets, and '07-08 Dodge Nitro (Jeep Liberty ??) rotors. I don't have to trim down the OD of the hub bearing or redrill the bolt holes.

NAPA had/has a sale going on. I wanted their Platinum series for synthetic. 41515 (same size as the 1515). They don't have one for the 1773 size.

I looked at rebuilding a set of springs years ago. There was anti-friction tape for springs. Might look at it. Also, there is 'teflon' paint at Auto parts stores. I did sand blast those sets of springs. Not sure it is a good idea though. I do have some machinery, lathes, mills. Some who rebuild them use an electrolysis process to remove the rust, paint etc. Not as complicated as it sounds. The part come out clean and bare metal.

OK, yeah the 2wd would not have the outer shafts. The WJ knuckles are 1/4 less on height than the XJs. I was looking at converting a set of XJ knuckles, but I think the WJs will be less work. There are three 'widths' or heights of XJ hubs. The early 1.8??. The HO 2.133 and the later or TJs (?) 1.918 or so. The WJs are 2.118. So, there is not much difference between them and the HO 90-99.5. I'd be interested in your combo of parts for the Tie rod etc. I was going to use or shorten the WJs steering set up. I think it could be done, but for the money making up the same setup from DOM , TRE insert ends and the Chevy/Ford/Dodge TREs might be the same amount of money. Also, read somewhere that the WJs slit in the tubing causes it to crack with heavy use. I am probably going to use the present XJ steering setup, then convert latter. I think I have a worn gear box. I have Canyon rims and a set of 16" rims. So hopefully the Akebonos have enough clearance.

I do have a '95 GC in my '88 MJ. It is just placed in there and not wired up. It does fit. I think I had to get the rubber piece for the fire wall from an XJ. From memory it does give about an 1" to 1-1/2' bit more room. I could look at it again if needed. I am not sure how the steering shaft worked out. I think I got it in there. Oops. OP was XJ and the next post said ZJ.

It will be interesting if the JKS spacers are not needed. I don't see that happening from my measurements. Or then if they are not needed at all. From my understanding, they space the outer shaft to align the u-joint with the axis of the ball joints. Some say it is not needed if you use the WJ hubs. I don't think so. The outer shaft mounts the same to the XJs or WJs. The depth or protrusion on the bearing surface from the knuckle surface is the same. I am gather parts for this swap on a '98 XJ. I do get the Mevotech lower WJ ball joints. They are made in China. They do look very good as pictured. I just replaced my ball joints with Alloy USA set. They XJ lowers don't fit firm in the WJ knuckles. I also went with a pair of 00'-'01 XJ Timken Hubs. They are roughly .230 less width than the WJ hubs. The bearing looks to be the same size. I am also planning to use '07-'08 Dodge Nitro Rotors. I bough some Centric (mid grade). They look good. I did do some stack ups and I might need to put in a 1/16th spacer to center the calipers with this setup. I went with NAPA Eclipse Akebono type and brackets. I just need to have the spacers welded on.

Owners or vehicle ??

I'd put in here, flat land or hills? Also, auto or manual? I did tow with my one of my Cherokees, but not that weight. And it was a '98. So, the dual diaphragm brake booster. It did very well, but the cars were only 2,200 lbs or so. I also towed some machinery. Still, about 1000 lbs. A trans cooler would help if an auto.

Basically, what Eagle wrote. Says '90 for your Eliminator, HP. The latter axles were LP, that the hub bearings and rotor were changed. If you swap them as a set, it would match up and work. The calipers are the same. I did swap on '98 rotors and hub bearing assemblies from a '98 HP to a '00 LP. I am presently gathering parts for the WJ big brake swap. So, I bought a set of '00 hub assemblies. Way things go.

The dowels are usually not a problem. I had to grind some on a '95 head to get it to position right on my '03 block. I think I am the only one who has had this problem. The pins were on my block.

Depends. The '88 head will fit. What are you putting it in? If say back into a '00, then as others suggest, get a newer head. The older heads 87 to 95' do not have the dowel holes for the locator pins. You would have to eye ball the centering of the head.

Yes Waggy front. PS drop. The Isuzu 44 has the shock mounts on the rear. I might keep them there and mess around. See what I like. Its a light truck so probably over kill, might mess up more than it helps. OK Decoder ring : PnP - Pick and Pull PA - Pennsylvania IN - Indiana

Any advice as to moving the tank to the other side? I want to run my exhaust straight back.

I did have some drilled on a Ford Contour. They did crack after some time. They might add some performance but I think there are other/better solutions. If I was 'racing' then I might go with them. Larger brakes or as was mentions rear disc. Also, do a search for various performance pads for Jeeps. Some rave about the 'Black Magic' brand. A bit pricey, but try them in the future.

I see 4:10 going for more than that. Other ratios are cheaper. People want the D30 4:10 and the JYs know it. I can get other axels for cheaper and non XJs in 4:10 or other rations a lot cheaper. PnPs charge for an axle, whatever it is. I picked up an FS GC D44 for about $130 at a PnP a few years back. I think they go for $400 to $600. Then again, I bought a D44 rear from an Isuzu Rodeo for $130 from a JY. I try to swing by Marshalls in mid OH. Just about PnP prices. I use Car-Parts.Inc. to scout for parts and prices.