75sv1
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Everything posted by 75sv1
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904 auto trans Dodge D100 slant 6
75sv1 replied to dragordie's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
When I did some design work on a transmission bellhousing, there were SAE standards. So, a #1, #2, #3 etc. The trans specs from say ZF and other transmission makers seemed to follow them. One Automaker had their own pattern. -
99+ intake swap on 4.0 H.O
75sv1 replied to misfitmechanic's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Nice video. A lot of info. Still, it is a 4.6 stroker, and highly tuned from there. I will say, I did do the TB blade thinning on my 2000 XJ, stock motor. It seems to help a bit on inclines. I didn't have to downshift to 3rd as much as before. I will say, that I did not get as perceived as much as my '98. I am expecting its the exhaust ports. Could be other stuff. I am running an aftermarket JBA 2000+ ceramic coated header on it. I'd say, I didn't notice any real gain from that. Again, I guess the exhaust ports. I wish they showed their exhuast port a bit more. They go with an O shaped. The 87-99 is a D port. The 2000-2006 is a square port. -
99+ intake swap on 4.0 H.O
75sv1 replied to misfitmechanic's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I didn't read the whole thread on 12 HP. I remember Hornbrod post a Dyno graph on a Stroker motor with 12 hp increase with a 99+ intake manifold. I've also read the Jordace88 thread. He was on NAXJA for a few months. Posted a 27 hp increase. But if you read the thread, he did a PSI increase to the fuel pump. I'll also note, there is a thread on NAXJA by Bajabronco with his dyno results. Later he upgraded to an adjustable fuel pressure and added 12 hp. OK blah, blah, blah. I have swapped out to 99+ intakes on two '98 XJs. One was mostly stock. The other some improvements. Bored TB 60mm and 62mm, Doug Thorley header, 2.5 exhaust, Ford and then Bosch 12 hole injectors. Some improvements. I will note that I am able to take some inclines better. That can also be done with regrearing. Now if you want to argue about dyno results and butt dyno, I will say for all the dynos the company I work for has, they still do road testing. Now, as to shifting the rmp, torque etc. I say you need to look at the cam specs. The latter ones have less lift and are a split lift cam. Presently, I have mostly assembled a stroker with parts from Bishop Buel racing. Also, I am gearing up to do a mini-stroker, 232 crank. I am looking to get Schneider cams to grind some cams on stock 99+ camshafts. Also, looking to possibly make some dual row roller cams for the 99+ motors. I am also doing Chevy valves with 30 degree intake valve seats. -
I don't know about putting on TC cases. I will be in the same boat, as soon as I rebuild the 242 I have. I did use some bolts with the heads cut off to 'guide' a NV3550 to the motor. Worked real well. Might work for a TC case.
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More useful info:
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I'd look at this thread: Also, look at Limey's Thread. I'd get a brass/copper heater core. I'd do '97+ parts. I'd proably look around and see what it cost for someone to vaccum your system and put in the refrigerant 134. I think it takes PAG 100. I did my 2000 XJ last year. Also, 'redid my '98 XJ. I did buy a 'rebuilt' AC Compressor off of EBay. Buy the compressor with the clutch pulley already installed.
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What's the color of the cap? Also, aluminum or brass posts? I think my last one was a Duralast gray one. I was having issues starting. The cap was cracked. Maybe due to wheeling and water. I reused a black brass post cap and rotor. NAPA I think. Someone told me he had issues with aftermarket gray colored caps. ???
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I could only find a TJ steering shaft on the Flaming Rivers site. I do have a Boreguson to install at some point. The steering on my '00 is fairly tight. Maybe the MJ or my '01, when I get it built and running.
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I don't think it will solve the problem. Also, that's a different speed sensor. Although, I am no 'expert' on the AW4 or the earlier ones. The latter ones 98+ have two on the side. I think the earlier ones have one. Not sure if this is what I am talking about. The '98+ is different.
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I'd check your battery voltage. I'd check the ohms on the Solenoids. I have installed the Transgo kits. Both the basic and the advanced. Still, I could not give advice if they made a difference. I had other issues. Mine was the speed sensor on a '98. It has two. Yours should have one. I think there are 5 things that control the AW4. Solenoids, speed sensor, TPS, Range selector, Trans computer, Engine computer (EMS??), brake light switch.
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I usually only post my highway mileage. Also, is yours manual or auto? It makes a different of at least +2-3 mpg with a manual. Also, tire size. I'd also see what the tire psi is. They deflate in the cold. I'd say I get 14 mpg in mixed driving and 18 mpg with my 2000 XJ on 31's and an auto. I'd get 23 mpg with my stock '88 MJ and a manual trans. Also, what temps if the engine running at? I do get less MPG in the winter and colder months.
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Valve ticking on new engine
75sv1 replied to BizarroStormy's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Uh, that was there so the cam would break in properly. Valve lapping compound 'NO"! Also, the 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes is what is recommended by Comp Cams and others. I read about it long ago about 1988. Also, I discussed this with Russ Pottenger ,Bishop Buell Racing, along with other break in procedure. Also, I would not go to synthetics till 10K miles. Also, with flat tappet cams a higher amount of ZDP is recommended. Also, read or confirmed that with the instructions that cam with the Competition Cam for the stroker I am building. There is a lot of prep and proper oiling in building a motor. -
While your in there ( Heater core )
75sv1 replied to Sly_Jeeper's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
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While your in there ( Heater core )
75sv1 replied to Sly_Jeeper's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Let's see, the heater core held up about 30 years. Don't know how the cooling system was treated during that time. So, I'd reinstall a copper-brass heater core. Update the A/C. I'd treat the rust with POR-15 and their rust treater. Possibly, Lizard sin for acoustics. Raptor lining etc. would be good too. The plastic bag is for acoustics or heat. I'd look at the recent thread for heater box regen. -
HVAC box refurb questions/advice
75sv1 replied to A-man930's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I couldn't find Limey's Build Thread. The newer AC uses a filter in the tube to regulate the PAG oil. Not sure what A-man's evap is from or modified. here's alink for a possible upgrade. ?? Jeep Cherokee '97-'06 - HeaterTreater -
XJ ROCK-LINK (ironrockoffroad.com) Iron Rock 'Upgrade' kit. Sort of the same as for components as the RC the OP posted. So, if you have the springs and shocks, it would be a good option.
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Cylinder head thermostat housing boss broken
75sv1 replied to fz1p5c's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I might try modifying option #1. I would use a Keensert or such. I could also see making an insert with a flange that would be counter sunk about a washers width. Then epoxy into place. Possibly combining with squaring up the back. Add washer and a nut. -
I'd ask 'How far do you travel out West to wheel?'. Then does that get you to another State in the East? I wouldn't rule out WV. ATV & Off-roading - Almost Heaven - West Virginia : Almost Heaven – West Virginia (wvtourism.com) Also, would depend where in OH you are moving to. Say Cincinnati, then KY and IN has some 4W parks.
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I can't speak directly as to their quality, except on a set of older rear leaf springs. I think they have improved those with anti-friction pads on the newer ones. On the Long Arm, the guy wheeling in front of me last spring had an RC Long Arm kit for sale. He replaced it with an IRO. The only reason he had was that the IRO and some others, the center section can be dropped with out taken off the suspension parts. I went with Ironman myself. Mainly that it had plates underneath. Others add plates to protect the TC etc. IRO has a VG reputation. I have used some of their parts. Others I looked at and considered were: Stinky Fab, Cav Fab, possibly Dirt Bound.
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I'd like a bed and passenger compartment like a Chevy Avalanche. Probably a ton of work. But that is what the MJ is for.
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Looked at EBay $3K(142K lifted)to $30K (50K miles).
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I'd counter more people look for XJs, for wheeling. So, supply vs demand. I haven't kept track of XJ nor MJ prices in the past few years. Also, most go quick. Some don't. A guy at work is selling an XJ. Good to VG and a 3 inch lift. Plus a tow bar. Only bad I saw was the passenger rocker was rusted out. Motor purred, interior VG. We convinced him to put $4,800 on it. I think he tried to sell it a few years back, with a White XJ that's a bit beat for less. No takers. ???
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These guys did: Convicted murderers, sex traffickers received COVID stimulus checks while in prison, court docs show | Fox News Also, where did the money go to 'upgrade' schools for Covid? Yeah. Where did it go to save small businesses? I tired to stay out of this. Also, how many flu cases (deaths) were claimed as Covid? I am aware of one.
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Axle Swap and Gearing Question
75sv1 replied to ktmall07's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I see the rear for that Ratio only for the Dana 35. The front seems hard to find.
