89 MJ

You mean you don’t want pink? Lol

It is possible that this started life as one and then the rear part was damaged and then this happened.

this one is not nearly as clean looking as this one:

To my knowledge, nothing changed between the bench seat brackets. I also haven’t heard of anyone moving the seat ahead, but I also haven’t really watched for that because I have the opposite problem. Are you sure you’re getting the full range of motion from the tracks? Sometimes it requires one person on each side of the seat in my truck to get it to move forward or backwards. It might be worth looking into cleaning the old grease out of the tracks and putting new lubricant in them.

Even conventional non-high mileage oil will swell seals more than synthetic oils. You could run 10W-40, but I don’t think it’s necessary. I run conventional 10W-30 with a zinc additive in all of my old stuff. Granted, the Comanche doesn’t get run at all in the cold, but my Eagle and tractors do and it’s been fine in all of those. It’s one of those things, if you put enough miles on it in a year to where you’ll be needing an oil change anyways, you might as well switch to 10W-40 or something. If the truck only gets a couple thousand miles per year, I wouldn’t bother. I also wouldn’t bother if the truck doesn’t get run all winter. Everyone has their own opinions on oil, so be prepared for that.

Looks like Crown and a few other manufacturers make a whole new shaft (most likely out of junk parts because of the price). Borgeson makes one that's made in the USA with a 5 year warranty for $313: https://www.borgeson.com/1984-1996-Cherokee-and-Wagoneer-XJ.html. That said, the u-joint stuff should be fairly universal. Just would need to know the spline counts and diameter and/or the size of the DD shaft.

I'd like to see that. I agree that the red, white, and blue would be the way to go with it. I wonder how it would look if you painted an entire rectangle white, then did the red and blue over the top. The white might help with coverage and I think leaving a little white perimeter around the whole thing might make it pop a little bit more. Something like this logo.

I’m jealous. Love 58-60 Rambler Americans.

Converting from manual mirrors to power? Or converting from manual 84-96 mirrors to manual 97+ mirrors?

Can confirm. GM also used an NP241, which was the NP241C. But they also used an NP261HD and NP261XHD in 2500 and larger trucks because GM in the early 2000s was weird I guess. Dodges were D and Fords were F.

Here's a neat website talking about some of the different transfer cases, along with the applications for them: http://www.n0kfb.org/homepage/amc/tech/transfer_case/swap/index.htm The website is about swapping the transfer case in an Eagle, but it does a really good job with explaining the different transfer cases. I wish it made note of spline count because NP119, 129,219, 229, 228, and 128s are all 23 spline to the best of my knowledge. Here's the part I found fairly relevant to this conversation. The rear half of the case can be swapped or the tail housings can be swapped with drilling and tapping new holes. Some folks have suggested that you can avoid this problem all together with a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter, but I have no firsthand knowledge as to whether this works. Of these options, the first is the easiest for the do-it yourselfer, but it does require that you take apart and disable your old 119, 129, or 128 case. I’d rather keep mine whole as a spare. So, if you have adapted your new case with the proper yokes and relocated the tailshaft housing all that’s left to do is re-install. Reinstallation is simply the reverse of removal. No really it is, it helps again to have a friend who can help you get the case lined up. Some of the early 119 and 219 cases use 10w30 motor oil for lube, some others use automatic transmission fluid (dexron III). Again, as mentioned previously, the 207 and 231 will require additional mod’s to either the driveshaft or the output shaft to mate up with the Eagle stock hardware.

I I think the camper going over the cab would be more usable than having the spare on the roof. It would not be fun to get the spare down from there. Could you mount a spare tire on the back of the camper?

@Minuit talks about it some in this thread:

That seems fairly cheap.

It has to look good so you’re inspired to work on it.

I’m a fan of having multiple projects going at the same time. Especially if they’re at varying stages of completion. It lets me work on whatever I feel like at any given time.

Looks like new. Probably better than new.

I’m looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it

This is on track to be my favorite 97+ swap yet. I like the flares and the color.

I like both vehicles! 99-06 GM pickups are some of my favorite vehicles built.

I used the Rubicon Express one in my Eagle with the 231 because it was the cheapest option out there. It never said this in the instructions, but you’re supposed to do a rear CV driveshaft. I didn’t do that, so I used these u bolts instead for the u joints.

You got that done quickly! I like it. Perfect timing as well.

Looks like a pretty solid rig

I’m going to guess that the loose one is the lockdown cable for the transmission, if it’s an automatic. If it shifts fine, I’d leave it. Tightening or loosening the cable will change the shift points.

@jeeptruck636, any updates?