89 MJ

The Mustang II front suspension is just what most hot rod aftermarket suspensions are based off of. Definitely a far cry from the twin I-beams

Gotta give credit where credit is due though. Because of the Pinto and Mustang II, we’ve got one of the best front suspension systems for old cars now.

Ah yes, a Bronco Twice

I believe it should be measure the distance between mounts at ride height, at full droop, and then at full compression.

What’s wrong with your fenders? They aren’t known for rusting out, so I’d try to find a set of good used ones if I were you.

I got one for a 94 Ford Ranger. Here’s your previous post on it:

Almost a shame to part that one out. Looks like a decent one

^this. Becoming familiar with your vehicle will allow you to plan for common problems and help identify issues when they inevitably arise. I also agree that newer cars are not that much better than old stuff.

Sometimes upholstery shops can glue it. I’m not sure if this would be one of those times or not though.

The one I got for my truck was for a 94 Ranger. Not a perfect fit, but it didn’t leak.

I was wondering about this build the other day. @cquinnball, how is progress?

I think calling the shop and having them fix it is the way to go. If it were mine, I’d be concerned about the noise because it isn’t supposed to be there. That doesn’t mean it’s a major issue, but it’s not correct, therefore I’d make sure it gets fixed. Putting the CAD back is just a bandaid. It’s not actually fixing the problem.

I could be wrong, but isn't the small rod for the load sensing valve supposed to be vertical? Also, it looks like the bracket for one of the front brake lines is missing the bolt. Those are some fancy looking shocks!

Looks great

Maybe it’s just me, but I tried twice and I can’t see the images on my phone or my computer.

You took the words right out of my mouth. I was going to suggest that these mid 80s AMC senders must just be very sensitive.

Oh this is going to be cool. A double overdrive would be super nice.

A shower might be a neat idea. For the dogs if nothing else. Here’s the first one on Amazon I found after googling. https://www.amazon.com/Pressurized-Shower-Off-Road-Vehicles-Pick-Up/dp/B0D48R181Q/ref=asc_df_B0D48R181Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=706076424878&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2452993607359357323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030237&hvtargid=pla-2339007315071&psc=1&mcid=076601603cd03547b0959c7618f52384

Sounds like you need to get out and use it more. Then you’ll find more to do I’m sure.

This is from the AMC Eagles Den and I figured it might be entertaining here too. Anyone have any tools to add to it? DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand, or other nearby body parts. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable or valuable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbors to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. Secondary usage: used to call 911 when car has fallen on you. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog **** off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TAP: See Bolt Extractor above. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry-bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light. It is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over tightened 58 years ago by someone at ERCO, and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short. HAMMER: Multipurpose, if the smaller one does not work, use larger model. Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. PIPE AND/OR CHEATER BAR: Used to provide leverage on stuck or stubborn parts, since you should have had the strength to do it but recently have only been doing 12 oz curls. WATER PUMP PLIERS: Larger, with more adjustment points than ordinary pliers, it is used to round off bolt heads too large for ordinary pliers. Also doubles as a device to check one's palm pain tolerance when the jaws slip off the rounded off bolt head causing the handles to pinch the fleshy part of your palm below the first finger. ANGLE GRINDER: Used for grinding off flesh of knuckles and finger tips. ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Commonly used to round off bolt/nut heads and slam your fingers into the sharpest nearby object. SNAP RING PLIERS: Used to expand and then shoot your only and very necessary snap ring into another dimension (distant relative to wire wheel.) Oxy-Acetylene Torch: Also known as the Acetylene Wrench....When the progression of hammers fails once you get to the "Thor", try the acetylene wrench also known as "Metric". SAFETY GLASSES: Meant to protect your eyes, but only serve to become fogged-up and distort any amount of vision provided by the aforementioned trouble-light. 4 - 6' STEEL PIPE: Used to snap breaker bars in half to reduce their length. Also good for breaking sockets and rounding off nuts and bolt heads. TOOL BOX: Place where the tools you do not need are stored. KITCHEN DRAWER/WIFE'S PURSE/KID'S BEDROOMS: Places where the tools you need are stored. GASKET ADHESIVE: Substance guaranteed to stick to everything but the parts you are trying to get it to stick to. Works best to seal the tube it comes in after one use. WORK BENCH: A portal to an alternate universe. Parts placed there will be transported to this universe and only be returned after you return from the parts store with the new replacement part. UNDENIABLE TRUTHS: No matter which fastener you leave until last -- it will be the hardest one to remove. You will have one left over fastener. TOOL AISLE: Tool used by merchants to assist you in buying tools you might need someday. PEN: Used to sign checks and credit card slips at the parts store. ELECTRICAL TAPE: Used in conjunction with fast food napkin to bandage wounds incurred using above mentioned tools. FULLY EQUIPPED MECHANIC'S WORKSHOP: Something you don't have, and will be required to visit with projects you can't complete. LAWN MOWER/SNOW BLOWER: Used to find tools and parts. STANDARD TOOL SET: One flat head screw driver. One claw hammer. One rusty pliers. One half a saw blade. PROFESSIONAL TOOL SET: One Vise Grip pliers One nail One Phillips screwdriver One old roll of duct tape and a roll of (rusty) tie wire, aka balin' war LOCKING PLIERS (COMMONLY CALLED "VISE GRIPS"): Originally designed to operate Hood Release Cables on Eagles, they have been adapted to a wide variety of uses.

If you're trying to do it yourself, your local classifieds and junkyards will be the way to go. My truck has had a 3" lift for 5 years I think and it is all used parts and a bastard pack in the rear. Here's a thread of junkyard parts you could use to make your lift:

My 89 was built in January of 89 and there is no duct tape on the wiring.

I second Firestone Destination AT tires. I've run them in snow, rain, sand, mud/dirt, and a little bit of rocks between my Comanche and my Eagle. I thought they did very well in all situations. Even in the snow and rain, I never feel like I need four wheel drive. I have the original Destination ATs, but I will consider the AT2s for my next sets on each rig.

It would be plenty reliable, in my opinion. Just make sure you go through Cruiser’s tips. My MJ was my first vehicle and when I’m home, it shares daily duties with my AMC Eagle. My truck was a complete restoration too. You should be able to find a truck in your budget. If I were you, I’d try to buy the nicest truck you can afford. Instead of buying a $3,000 truck that needs rust repair and paint, you may want to consider buying an $8,000-$10,000 truck from down south or out west that needs less work. I also think that the 2.5L is just as good of an engine as the 4.0 and there’s no reason to steer clear of one of those. You may want to check this thread out:

A little roller 302 with a stick would be a fun little rig.