89 MJ

This forum is really one of a kind. I’m hoping you stick around. You seem to do very thorough research before asking a question and the headlight relay harness was very well done.

I looked it up quickly, and if it’s a coil, you’d need the whole rail. Could do the Viper coil mod though. Not sure on all of the codes. Did you check the plug and plug wire? Are you sure that injector is firing?

Ok. Have you gone through Cruiser’s Tips? Particularly the ones about cleaning grounds. How does it run once you get it started? Does it have a high idle or a miss or anything on startup? Or is it smooth running right away? Renix takes a little bit of cranking to get started compared to carbureted vehicles or newer vehicles. Once Cruiser’s tips are done, these threads might be worth reading.

Depending on how much they roughed the surface up, I wonder if you’d be better off DAing the whole thing down with 180 followed by 320, then priming and painting it. I’m not talking about making it too nice, but rather making it all one color. That truck looks straight enough and solid enough that it deserves paint.

Passenger side front fender on the 83 has been flared to match the width of the bed. Maybe this truck will end up with a razor grille

Gauge cluster and steering column are installed. Custom shifter linkage for the column shift

I’d wet sand it with 800 grit. Then up to 1500 when you’re down to blue to get rid of the sand scratches.

Thank you so much!

PM coming your way!

More parts on the way. This time it’s a partial set of sill And here is why I needed them. Super corroded to the point of having holes. Actually, only needed the one for the drivers door, but spares don’t hurt.

Not this year. Maybe someday in the future.

Yes it is. There’s not a lot of trucks I would say this about, but I think that one’s probably worth the money.

Post the VIN in the registry and you’ll get a mostly correct one

That sounds much better for a car guy haha

This. It might be worth pricing out building the D35 compared to buying a different axle, welding perches on it, and putting a locker or limited slip in it.

As in it cranks slower or it cranks for a longer period of time? If it’s cranking slower, it’s probably because of the cold and the battery aging.

This is a good point. I believe it was you who said that 35s under an 8.8 give as much clearance as 31s under a D35. It’s a good option when upgraded, but on a budget, I’d recommend swapping.

Looks like you did it right. That’s a good looking truck!

That’s a large house. Good timing on their part.

Looks a little chilly for that, but it works

Short answer: 4.88s are probably about right. Long answer: I'm guessing you have the D35 in your truck still. If it does have the D35, you're on borrowed time with 33s. I'd look at swapping in a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 out of an XJ or out of a Liberty, an MJ or XJ D44, a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer Sport Trac (the regular Explorer ones are narrower than the stock MJ rear), or a D44 out of something like a Rodeo or Passport, as outlined here. The way you are going to use the truck and the terrain around should be taken into consideration too. Here is a Tire Size vs Gear Ratio chart that might help you too.

BFG KO2s or Falken Rubitrek A/T01 would be my recommendation. The Falkens are fairly cheap too at $180/tire on Tire Rack. My brother has run a set on his J10 for about a year now and they perform really well in all conditions and are quiet. Here’s the best picture of them that I have.

I saw that too. Looks like they used the XJ roof too. I wished they did this with the MJs. The cabs are pretty cramped.

Well I’m sure that’s annoying. I never put anything between the tank and the straps, but that’s because it makes them rust faster up north.

Sounds like cruise control to me