89 MJ

For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not.

They are the caps that hold the crankshaft into the block

November 2024 - She's For The Streets Owned by @Car Enthusiast Build Thread- Year/Model 1988 Shortbox base model Drivetrain 4.0 with 186K miles, BA10, and a Dana 30 rear end Stock as a rock Cooling Nothing wild, just the stock radiator Electrical/Ignition Butchered up wiring harness from the previous owner. I have a big 5 wiring kit and NickInTime display to put in it Suspension/Steering Explorer springs in the front and XJ shackles in the rear dropping it 4/3" respectively. Slapped in some QA1 single adjustable shocks on it (TS709, and TS706). The fronts are dangerously close to bottoming out, so I might have to send them back for a shorter piston version Interior Seats and a console from a 2001 XJ replaced my old worn out bench seat Brakes- Stock Lighting- Upgraded sealed beams headlights with wiring harnesses added on Exterior- Only thing I have done was replaced the old flag style side mirrors on it for the bigger versions Wheel & Tires- Mickey Thompson ET Streets 255/60/15s with some tire lettering and I painted the M/T logo red, on a set of powder coated turbines Misc- No real plans for this one, just have fun as a street truck. I might 4link the rear and bag it later on down the road. I would love to put an OGR body kit on it along with a roll pan to really lean into the street truck look! I just really want to drive this one around. Best MJ story- Grew up and my Dad had an 86 2.8 longbed MJ. It was a dog, but I loved it. So that led me to finally getting one. I was looking and found this one in Louisiana (three states away) right when the pandemic hit back in 2020. I drove down there and picked it up and during the height of the lockdowns around here and driving it back on the freeways, it was a ghost town. Just me and my wife following in the van. Initially bought it for the step daughter to drive but she was blind and wanted to drive my Cherokee instead. Her loss! When she moved out and got to keep the MJ! CC is Awesome! Why? I am on a number of automotive forums and communities from old Fbodies, to Corvettes and CC is honestly the best out of them. The level of involvement and what the members will dedicate to keeping these old trucks moving beats anyone else. From people producing hard to find parts to Cruiser keeping the old ones still going. I really like this truck, it seems like a really great street truck. Congrats, Car Enthusiast!

I was going to suggest it was heat soak since it seems to do it more when warm. The fuel is boiling in the rail and it should have a heat shield. I can’t remember if HOs have a return style fuel system or not.

Does it seem to do it more when it’s up to temp or when it’s shut off? Or is it regardless of the truck’s temperature?

Oh yeah, one of my favorite projects on here.

That looks like it worked pretty darn well. Real good water pressure. Any changes that you want to make now that you’ve slept in it with the WilderNest down? Or was the room good enough?

Any updates on the Syclone, limey?

You need to make sure that the front suspension has no weight on it. So you would jack the truck up, then put jack stands under the frame rails so the wheels are off of the ground, but there is also no weight on the suspension. This will give you enough room to get the pan off and clear the axle with it.

I use this one: It’s available at pretty much every auto parts store. I use half a bottle per oil change. You could also use Valvoline VR1 racing oil as that also has the zddp that you need and is conventional oil. The zinc is used for flat tapper cams like these engines have otherwise you run the risk of wiping a cam lobe or wrecking the lifter. There are plenty of people who don’t use it and don’t have issues. It is most crucial on engine break in. Supposedly the zinc will also clog your catalytic converter quicker. Please don’t just take my word for it. I encourage you to do your own research and decide the route that you want to go.

You mean you don’t want pink? Lol

It is possible that this started life as one and then the rear part was damaged and then this happened.

this one is not nearly as clean looking as this one:

To my knowledge, nothing changed between the bench seat brackets. I also haven’t heard of anyone moving the seat ahead, but I also haven’t really watched for that because I have the opposite problem. Are you sure you’re getting the full range of motion from the tracks? Sometimes it requires one person on each side of the seat in my truck to get it to move forward or backwards. It might be worth looking into cleaning the old grease out of the tracks and putting new lubricant in them.

Even conventional non-high mileage oil will swell seals more than synthetic oils. You could run 10W-40, but I don’t think it’s necessary. I run conventional 10W-30 with a zinc additive in all of my old stuff. Granted, the Comanche doesn’t get run at all in the cold, but my Eagle and tractors do and it’s been fine in all of those. It’s one of those things, if you put enough miles on it in a year to where you’ll be needing an oil change anyways, you might as well switch to 10W-40 or something. If the truck only gets a couple thousand miles per year, I wouldn’t bother. I also wouldn’t bother if the truck doesn’t get run all winter. Everyone has their own opinions on oil, so be prepared for that.

Looks like Crown and a few other manufacturers make a whole new shaft (most likely out of junk parts because of the price). Borgeson makes one that's made in the USA with a 5 year warranty for $313: https://www.borgeson.com/1984-1996-Cherokee-and-Wagoneer-XJ.html. That said, the u-joint stuff should be fairly universal. Just would need to know the spline counts and diameter and/or the size of the DD shaft.

I'd like to see that. I agree that the red, white, and blue would be the way to go with it. I wonder how it would look if you painted an entire rectangle white, then did the red and blue over the top. The white might help with coverage and I think leaving a little white perimeter around the whole thing might make it pop a little bit more. Something like this logo.

I’m jealous. Love 58-60 Rambler Americans.

Converting from manual mirrors to power? Or converting from manual 84-96 mirrors to manual 97+ mirrors?

Can confirm. GM also used an NP241, which was the NP241C. But they also used an NP261HD and NP261XHD in 2500 and larger trucks because GM in the early 2000s was weird I guess. Dodges were D and Fords were F.

Here's a neat website talking about some of the different transfer cases, along with the applications for them: http://www.n0kfb.org/homepage/amc/tech/transfer_case/swap/index.htm The website is about swapping the transfer case in an Eagle, but it does a really good job with explaining the different transfer cases. I wish it made note of spline count because NP119, 129,219, 229, 228, and 128s are all 23 spline to the best of my knowledge. Here's the part I found fairly relevant to this conversation. The rear half of the case can be swapped or the tail housings can be swapped with drilling and tapping new holes. Some folks have suggested that you can avoid this problem all together with a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter, but I have no firsthand knowledge as to whether this works. Of these options, the first is the easiest for the do-it yourselfer, but it does require that you take apart and disable your old 119, 129, or 128 case. I’d rather keep mine whole as a spare. So, if you have adapted your new case with the proper yokes and relocated the tailshaft housing all that’s left to do is re-install. Reinstallation is simply the reverse of removal. No really it is, it helps again to have a friend who can help you get the case lined up. Some of the early 119 and 219 cases use 10w30 motor oil for lube, some others use automatic transmission fluid (dexron III). Again, as mentioned previously, the 207 and 231 will require additional mod’s to either the driveshaft or the output shaft to mate up with the Eagle stock hardware.

I I think the camper going over the cab would be more usable than having the spare on the roof. It would not be fun to get the spare down from there. Could you mount a spare tire on the back of the camper?

@Minuit talks about it some in this thread:

That seems fairly cheap.

It has to look good so you’re inspired to work on it.