89 MJ

Might be worth checking in to see how much more it would cost to bump up the insurance to where they want it. Better to have it over insured.

Something like this. Doesn't need to be this exact product, but it would say medium cut on the bottle somewhere. I'd use that with a microfiber towel.

This is what I was getting at earlier with my comments about the temperature. Also why I asked for the video. He said it’s cranking slowly (might’ve been in the other thread though), making it seem like a battery/battery cable/starter issue. I agree that this issue doesn’t sound like a cold issue anymore though. My Eagle has a 590CCA battery and it would start the same at -10F and 70F. It sounds a lot more like an ignition issue if the issue is worse with higher humidity.

How's progress, Tim?

I don't think that regearing is terribly difficult, it just takes some time. It is also way easier with the axle out of the vehicle, in my opinion.

It seems odd to me that it started on the second try when it was 53 degrees, but no start at all at 47 degrees. I think the video and battery testing will help a lot.

No idea if you’ve got a long bed or a short bed, but here’s a picture of my short bed tank. The one farthest from the camera would be the passenger side rear of the tank and the one closest to the camera is the driver side front. I don’t think you’ll be able to get to the front one without pulling the tank, but it might be worth a shot.

This thread and then the build thread in it have a little bit of information on the Super 35.

Correct. When you break a rear axle shaft, it probably won't be in your driveway. It will probably be at a terrible time. You'll have to pull your shafts to install the LSD anyways, so you might as well do it all at the same time.

Definitely do the CAD delete. What he meant was the upper control arm mount on the passenger side on Jeeps with CAD axles. On CAD axles, the mount is a cast iron piece that also has the CAD housing. You have a whole lot of upgrades to do then. That Peugeot is living on borrowed time. If you have plans to run 35s, I'd run 4.88 gears. If you think it will stay on 33s long term, 4.56s would likely be sufficient.

Glad to see this thread getting updated

I bet it is! That's a shame that they aren't in production right now. Hopefully that gets resolved quickly, I saw he posted about a new 3D printer on FB not too long ago.

The next thing worth discussing is tire size plans. And this will depend on your engine, your driving style, and your driving environment. Your budget for parts and fabrication skill is another factor. Your quickest option and you option requiring the least amount of fab work will be to put axle shafts in your D35 along with a locker of your choice. That may or may not be your cheapest option too, depending on what gears you want to run and the condition of the other axle if you were to swap it out instead.

If you could, maybe try to grab a video of it when you’re starting it tomorrow.

What are your plans with the truck? If it’s a daily driver and occasional off road rig, a Super 35 and a D30 will be sufficient. If it’s mostly a trail rig, go for tons. My axles of choice would be a D30 front and a Chrysler 8.25 rear out of either an XJ or a Liberty.

Did you check the voltage while cranking?

Stumbling and shutting off after 5 minutes sounds weird. Very possibly could be a connection issue, like grounds, or a bad battery issue. Like Eagle_SX4 said, get the battery, starter, and alternator tested at a parts store. Could also be a fuel issue, but that would be a problem when it’s warm too.

That one is a front receiver. @krustyballer16 makes new hitches

Hopefully this thread has what you need

Might want to post this over in tech where more eyes will see it with a link to this thread

Looks like a fun trip

That Cub Cadet looks like a blast. It seems like a crapshoot, but maybe Bosch is the way to go based on this thread: You can also use a wideband and a REM to get it in closed loop.

Doesn’t look like you can get a new one.