89 MJ

Thank you so much!

PM coming your way!

More parts on the way. This time it’s a partial set of sill And here is why I needed them. Super corroded to the point of having holes. Actually, only needed the one for the drivers door, but spares don’t hurt.

Not this year. Maybe someday in the future.

Yes it is. There’s not a lot of trucks I would say this about, but I think that one’s probably worth the money.

Post the VIN in the registry and you’ll get a mostly correct one

That sounds much better for a car guy haha

This. It might be worth pricing out building the D35 compared to buying a different axle, welding perches on it, and putting a locker or limited slip in it.

As in it cranks slower or it cranks for a longer period of time? If it’s cranking slower, it’s probably because of the cold and the battery aging.

This is a good point. I believe it was you who said that 35s under an 8.8 give as much clearance as 31s under a D35. It’s a good option when upgraded, but on a budget, I’d recommend swapping.

Looks like you did it right. That’s a good looking truck!

That’s a large house. Good timing on their part.

Looks a little chilly for that, but it works

Short answer: 4.88s are probably about right. Long answer: I'm guessing you have the D35 in your truck still. If it does have the D35, you're on borrowed time with 33s. I'd look at swapping in a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 out of an XJ or out of a Liberty, an MJ or XJ D44, a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer Sport Trac (the regular Explorer ones are narrower than the stock MJ rear), or a D44 out of something like a Rodeo or Passport, as outlined here. The way you are going to use the truck and the terrain around should be taken into consideration too. Here is a Tire Size vs Gear Ratio chart that might help you too.

BFG KO2s or Falken Rubitrek A/T01 would be my recommendation. The Falkens are fairly cheap too at $180/tire on Tire Rack. My brother has run a set on his J10 for about a year now and they perform really well in all conditions and are quiet. Here’s the best picture of them that I have.

I saw that too. Looks like they used the XJ roof too. I wished they did this with the MJs. The cabs are pretty cramped.

Well I’m sure that’s annoying. I never put anything between the tank and the straps, but that’s because it makes them rust faster up north.

Sounds like cruise control to me

That sounds right to me.

Looks good!

If I were you, I would probably look for a tilt and delay column. That one will probably be the easiest to find parts for.

Here’s my plan for my vehicles, if I ever get around to it. You can get faceless Bluetooth radios like boats have and mount them somewhere inconspicuous. My MJ one might end up behind the seat and my Eagle one will probably end up behind the passenger kick panel. I’ve got OEM radios in both, but they don’t work and most of my local radio stations both in AZ and WI suck, so I listen to my phone anyways. Something like this, but I’m not spending $300 on it. https://www.amazon.com/Memphis-Audio-Headless-Smartphone-Bluetooth/dp/B09GCTY6KD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Uncs_AUnIw-qluo4REHYqbKfnj--QxFABNoTpUqESCERTsSNOuVpb4IXIDR7QJ9gvpENEMdb7rZNnbQr_OlLhS4PDj0kSDviNnZEcvkGSWflwCR-Ocf_C1FrJIED8uexmJDR4JOzpdEQXUqR9geL9r528_1_ud17rehsQwoFu7xF4CLW6V9xXB7ZFdM1UDZHOHa9Eekc4VRC8Zu1MCfL6w.ldC5vtncNJ1WQdE2nAyyHUsoeKjYaki4AIZ56fTCzts&dib_tag=se&keywords=hidden+car+stereo+system&qid=1732501129&sr=8-4

@boxyjeep makes new ones for 6.5” speakers https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-comanche-6-5-rear-speaker-brackets

They are pretty slick! You do have to be careful though. There is a fine line between burning the plastic and melting the solder nicely that you have to try to balance between. But if you can build a harness, you’re more than capable of not wrecking the connectors haha.

Holy cow, this is a very thorough write up. Looks like you did good work. I didn’t see it mentioned (but it’s possible and likely that I missed it), but I just wanted to add that you can get heat shrink versions of these: I recommend them because it makes your life a heck of a lot easier than using these connectors and then needing to put heat shrink over them. And then as an alternative to solder, the solder stick type connectors seem to work pretty well. They can’t be used in all cases where solder is needed, like a 2 into 1 type situation, but they do work for a 1 to 1 type scenario.