89 MJ

My parents have these tires in a metric 35" tall size on their JK. They love them. Good traction in the wet or dry (can't vouch for how they do in the snow because it gets parked for the winter). Most importantly, they are not loud on the highway. They are a very good all terrain for street use and mild trails.

Yes. Make sure your heat shield between the injectors and intake/exhaust manifolds is there. Mine was in rough shape, so I tossed it and have regretted it since. Before replacing it, you should test it first. But it can go bad over time. Here's the testing procedure:

Looking better already

JMO, did you see any fuel economy gains?

Probably would need to have a trusted friend or family member to sell them for you. And then call you for any negotiations.

That trans crossmember looks like it hangs down a long ways. Might also want to update your signature haha

The steering stabilizer at best will only mask issues. Eventually, it will come back when the stabilizer wears out.

I’ve done that with white lithium grease when my car got a new oil pump. White lithium grease was also used as assembly lube for the rocker arms and pushrods on its previous engine. Not the right way, but effective.

Both the BFG Radial T/A and Cooper Cobras are raised white letter tires that a lot of people run on older cars. I haven’t heard anything bad about either.

I’m confident you could fix it. Glad you were alright.

Ugh... no way. Everyone good?

That’s what I was guessing. There shouldn’t be any reason to replace the springs anyways. The only reason I could see the shock causing DW would be if it were seized or completely and making the suspension do weird stuff. but it doesn’t sound like that’s the case. It’s an unlikely issue, but it’s still a possibility. Out of everything suggested, it’s probably the least likely. If it is an issue, they’d probably take care of it at an alignment shop.

Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to get the tires road force balanced. When you said your mechanic put in new suspension, does that mean shocks? Or is new suspension springs, shocks, and all rubber parts? There are almost countless causes for death wobble. The condition of all rubber puts in the front suspension should be inspected and replaced if needed. The track bar bolt on the front axle side is also prone to getting worn out to be an oval shape, causing death wobble. You should also get it aligned if it hasn't been aligned in a long time. Not having enough caster can cause issues too. @boxyjeep is somewhere in Cali, so he might have some shop recommendations. I would encourage you to learn how to do a lot of this stuff on your own. These are fairly simple rigs. Obviously there are some things that you can't do, like the tire balance and alignment, but working on other suspension stuff can be done fairly easily.

That I don’t know, might want to make a post in tech asking

I want to say that the AMC ones are not interchangeable with the later Bendix ones. So you’d need a matched pair of make and female ends.

My truck has the sensor in the lower rad hose as well. I’m fairly certain my truck has the original rad in it and came with factory AC too.

This 30lb bucket should do Seriously though, I’d probably get two of the smaller tubes from a parts store and hope that took care of it.

I saw somewhere on the internet that it was a very last minute wrap. @OffGridResearch could probably explain

Looks like it’s 18,600 that are registered, as of 2021. Plus I’m sure there are a lot of unregistered projects. In any case, not a ton.

It might be cheaper and easier to just swap axles. Any 4cyl, 5 speed XJ or MJ will have 4.10s (most likely). If you could find a D44 or 29 spline Chrysler 8.25, that would be a stronger axle too.

I’d run 4.10s. That will be slightly shorter gearing than stock. Cruiser always said that these AMC inline engines were designed to run 24 mph per every 1000 rpms in drive (1:1 ratio). You don’t need to be afraid of turning it some higher rpms.

Might as well add the torque wrench if you’re doing the rear main. You’ll need it for torquing the main caps anyways.

Looks like a pretty good one! I guess you’re just supposed to have 2 MJs.

It seems weird to me that the speedo is off, but the odo is close to correct. Like Eagle_SX4 said, the mile per hour shown will be off by a percentage. (Speed shown) = (actual speed) * (percentage inaccurate), if your speedo read 110% of your actual speed, and you were actually doing 50, your speed shown would be 55, 60 would show 66, etc.

The same gauge as the ballast resistor wires, or heavier.