DesertRat1991

Did you torque them before, or after, you had the truck down on the ground supporting its own weight? I'd say try loosening and retorquing. Also remeber the rear shacke bolts should be loose enough to allow the shackle to swing as the spring flexes.

Oh wow! I need all of these! Thanks!

Welcome! Clever solution. How is the gas tank and filler neck set up?

Traveling at night has advantages. Less traffic, less cops, higher speeds and it's harder for the cops to spot your radar detector. You do have a radar detector, don't you..?

Would I pay that much? No. Would I pay that much if I was a celebrity plastic surgeon whose time was worth $5000/hr and I just wanted a turn key, vintage auto that someone else has already sorted out? Maybe. Is your Dad a celebrity plastic surgeon?

Mods -- I actually don't know the model year of this truck. The door tag was missing. Please move to the correct forum. Thanks. Final resting place: NC junk yard State inspection tag expired: Oct. 2005

Looks like the front brackets are missing, but the rear brackets are all there. Buy It Now: $250 https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Comanche-Chief-mud-flaps-OEM-extremely-RARE-w-brackets-/125152506478?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Good choice. Also easy enough to paint black should you want to in the future. Silver would have been all wrong.

+1, Having my first child also made getting pinned under car parts less interesting to me. I can recommend the Strongway tyranny jack from Northern Tool. I didn't have to separate the transfer case from the AX-15 when I replaced the slave cylinder. It handled both units still full of fluid. The platform has tilt and roll articulation which is nice. Very sturdy and safe. Buy it, use it, sell it.

Yes

The Walker stuff does fit nice but it ain't worth waiting months for. There is nothing special or proprietary about what they deliver. If my choices were to traverse a snowy mountain pass or hit up the local Mexican muffler shop for a custom job, I'd be scrounging up my pesos.

That pic is a great example of how quickly being a good Samaritan can go completely sideways. These days it's pretty rare that I will touch a total stranger's rig. Times have changed. Tip: Before you touch a stranger's vehicle, CYA. Take photos. Even better, take 15 seconds to record the following on camera: "Do you need assistance? Do you understand that recovery operations are inherently dangerous? Do you agree that I won't be held liable for damage to your property?" Any problems with that, just walk away and let them call a tow truck company who will have them sign a paper that says pretty much the same thing anyway.

It'll be tough to do a GOOD job with the bumper still on the truck. If you want the job to last it should really be stripped to bare metal and powder coated. If you paint it yourself, you would still benefit from laying down a coat of self-etching primer down on CLEAN metal first.

The ARB fits without modification to the fenders, flares or front air dam. It doesn't have recovery points but it is possible to run OEM style tow hook brackets along with the ARB mounting brackets. You just need to drill out to the tow hook brackets to accept 1/2" hardware. The hooks remain accessible with the bumper mounted. I believe Warrior Products also makes a bumper that will fit without fender cutting. You can actually see the intact fender sticking out below the bumper in this photo: They make a winch ready version with d-rings. The funny thing is that the winch version was like $800 a few years ago. I just checked pricing, now it's as expensive as an ARB! https://warriorproducts.com/jeep-xj-front-rock-crawler-bumper-w-brushguard-d-ring-mounts-gen-1-56051.html

Very glad to hear this! Thanks!

Agreed. That's why I think this VIO number would be most useful in a comparison between models of similar vintage. There's no point in trying to count the number of unregistered rigs awaiting restoration. All enthusiast communities suffer from that same affliction so that figure washes out. I'd love to see the VIO figures for the XJ or even the Dakota.

Just a thought, there may not be any glue at all. The plastics may be ultrasonically welded together. That would make sense for something that needs to be leak proof and was never intended to be serviced or disassembled. RIP to all the decent housings that are going to get wrecked attempting this swap. I've been looking for a set of junkers to experiment with but they aren't all that cheap either.

I'm glad to see these hit the market. It's been a while since I looked at tail light prices but the cheapest one I see on ebay (that isn't broken) is going for $190. So a new lens is about half the cost of a used tail light. Meh. Not a doorbuster deal but competitive enough to consider if you need a replacement. I'm also interested to see where this half-a-tail light strategy is going. Maybe profits from the first run will help cover the tooling costs for the tail light housing. But who knows.

Wait, whaat?? Too cool!

+1 I still don't know what issue the OP is having. Not sure why someone would sand their pads. The pad surface wears down naturally everytime you step on the pedal. That's kind of what they're for.

Happy Birthday! She's coming along great!

Go with 4.28 or 4.56

Wow..!

This is the DashMat from Covercraft. It fits well, stays in place and keeps the sun off the dash. No complaints.

Hyundai Azera - budget friendly, yet surprisingly well appointed interior in the Limited trim version. You could probably find something 2014 or earluer under 10k Subaru Forester - more space, awd, good mpg.