Tex06

Not true. Depending on the manufacturer depends on if and how much sulphur/phosphorus is used (which is what attacks "yellow metals" such as brass, copper, and bronze). There are brands of GL-5 that meet the wear spec without the use of sulphur, Pennzoil is one of them. I believe the spec you want is GL-5/MT-1, with MT-1 distinguishing that it is yellow metal safe. I've run this for nearly 7 years with no ill effects as have many many others. For information on this, look at the independent testing done and recorded on bobistheoilguy.com where they break down gear oils that are yellow metal safe. Even the absolute worst GL-5 would take years to eat the synchros to a point that it would affect shiftability. I look at it akin to "Water corrodes aluminum and iron, yet look at how many uncoated aluminum transmission cases and cast iron rear ends there are in the world". Full disclosure: I'm a Materials Engineer and deal with corrosion in my day to day. Edit: Pennzoil SynchroMesh is what I'm running. They may not make it anymore with a GL certification from what I'm seeing online, it's now just listed as an MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid).

Good work on the transmission. 1st time I did my AX-15 I put the reverse gear in backwards I've seen the Chevelle, is your 'Vette yellow or white? There's one of each early C3 around that area, I forget how to differentiate pre-'73 Vette's from each other.

X2 for redline, it's great stuff I use in my high end vehicles(the MJ doesn't fall in that category, lol). I use Pennzoil GL-5 in my AX-15 now. I ***DO NOT*** recommend running a motor oil in the AX-15. I did for about 3000 miles and recorded much higher transmission temps while doing so as compared to the GL-3 (or whatever was in there previously) and the Pennzoil GL-5 immediately after. Higher temps mean more friction, more friction means more wear happening. My $0.02

This is part of why I got a camper shell that locks.

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Ok, that tracks. Cool little backwoods type repair....you know what they say: "If it's stupid but works, it ain't stupid". I'll have to file that one back in the cool tips and tricks folder in my head.

Typlically when the sag is noticeably different on one side from the other or when you have broken leafs.

For the sealant? I was thinking about wiping the seal with it to lube it up (Dry lube, it's basically graphite on the paper) prior to installing it.

This. Also, it is possible that the front axle has been swapped......these trucks do get modified quite a bit.

Awesome.

Get the VIN at least?

In for this one. Did my own rear seal about 3 years ago....but I have an H.O. motor.

At the time, it was the wife's truck still and she said the same thing that "people were just crazy about it" and they wanted.....well considerably more than I was willing to pay. More than I had paid for my '92 just before the flood. I hope you got a good deal on it and look forward to seeing it out on the road! I need to get around to pulling my dash.....

I'm of no help b/c I don't have a CAD axle but I'm curious as well....

Yikes. Someone whut dun and gone bubba'd that one up good. The repair itself shouldn't be too bad. I'd get a donor jeep of whatever year you want to use the doors from and cut out the pillar about 12 inches above and below the damaged area on the MJ. Then cut out the bad area on the MJ. If I remember correctly, there's a reinforcement behind the body work that the striker goes through....yours is probably shot but you can make a new one or salvage the one from the donor jeep. It's not important how it looks as it will be hidden behind the bodywork, but it needs to be in the correct location (I think jeep uses a "floating nut"....basically a nut that is trapped but can move a bit to allow for adjustment of the striker for the door) or at least close to the correct location. After that, it's just fitting a body panel. Cut and fit, then tack in with a MIG welder if ya got one. If not, you can braze it in place with a torch. Just takes a bit more patience that way. Basically, it's very repairable. Just takes a bit of time. If you use a shop, you can help them out by finding the donor and cutting out the panels they will need. Remember, it's always better to cut out a piece too big and trim later than a piece too small and try to add on.

Holy crap, it didn't get crushed! I talked to the owners of this MJ no less than 3 or 4 times in 2017 and 2018 trying to get this thing. I'm glad it's being saved....and also glad I didn't come grab that tailgate in the night like I wanted to I'm no longer in BR but I find my way up there on the weekends often. If you need a hand, tools, etc let me know! I've got everything to regear your rear axle too

Pull it for a 3800. +1.0L and a very tuneable/reliable motor, plus indistinguishable from the 2.8 block. Keep the 2.8L block for posterity.

Dropped to $25k https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/conowingo-1991-jeep-comanche/7306473825.html

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has "been there, done that". I got lucky and found a stick long enough to fish the keys from the ignition when I locked them in. My '86 K30 on the other hand.....hell I've been thru that rear window a whole bunch!

Why's that? Raptor isn't terribly UV stable from the one time I used it. Good product, and great for a cheap bedliner but for appearances I don't know if I would use it on a whole vehicle. A bondo-eater will remove it easily enough if it's anything like Raptorliner. I haven't removed Monstaliner yet but Raptor does come off with some 40 grit and my big DA (gear-driven).

I like that a lot. 6.5" lift....did you have to use spacers/adapters for the lug pattern?

Very interesting discussion, but I am lost as to what the issue is here? Is it that your triple fan setup is crap? I've got a 137A ZJ alternator in my '92....only because I've got a big ol' amp and 2 10" subs behind the seat. Did I actually NEED it? Prolly not. But I don't ever have issues with my charging circuit, even at idle. My plan is to put in a winch up front and hopefully this should be able to keep up with that over intermittent use.

And this is for a 16" rim if you're using a later model rim....a LOT more options

As of today this is what BFG has for the K02 in a 15" rim: