Tex06

Oof. Best of luck to the OP. I think I'd go for a Detroit TrueTrac for his application, they're under $500 and an easy drop-in.

This G80 isn't the same as the GM "Gov-bomb" G-80 by chance is it? Limited slip

Yup. It's all GM inside and a lot of the pieces interchange. I have a '92 and I used an '80s GM turn signal stalk for my cruise swap. Where in Atlanta are ya? I just moved back to the area

Appreciate it. I can easily lock up all 4 with the camper shell on the back so I'm pretty happy for now.

Hmmmm....I don't have those in my truck. Just replaced my weatherstripping last month and it's all good though.

I pulled everything from a WJ and a ZJ a few years back to "fix" my brakes. Never got around to installing it though b/c after I went thru and rebuilt my stock setup, it was way more than adequate. My rear slave cylinders were trashed, one was completely frozen, the check valve on my stock booster was shot, and my pads & rotors up front were beyond worn from doing 100% of the braking. All in all, I think I spent $200 from Rock Auto with new slaves, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums, plus spent $0.48 on a new check valve. I've still got the booster if you're interested, I don't see me ever installing it. Can get pics after the holidays.

May be able to get the drums turned if you call around. They will actually take and grind the interior smooth (as long as it's within spec...the minimum thickness is cast into the side of the drum). A little cheaper than new.

Where is your aftermarket fuse box? is this in addition to the stock one or is it a replacement for stock?

My $0.02, it comes for free so take it as such: The AW4 has an overdrive ratio of .75 or .79 depending on what year it was pulled from. If you're happy with everything else about how the jeep drives, and just want to eliminate hunting at 65mph, the 4.10 gears should do you fine on 32" tires. The AX-15 has a .79 OD ratio so the 2 may have the same gearing at your "problem" speed, number of gears doesn't matter then. Full disclosure, I run an AX-15 on 32" tires and have 3.07 gears in my Comanche. My last XJ had an AW4 and 33" mud tires on 3.55 axles and ran 65 mph (GPS calculated) without hunting but it was in the North Georgia Mountains so it down shifted when climbing and hit OD on the flats consistently.

Just rebuilt my drums and holy cow does it make a difference. I had a wheel cylinder that was completely frozen up and shoes were shot on the other side. I even think my proportional valve still works as it should.

Let me know how this goes, I was looking at doing the same for a while but didn't get much headway.

Oof. New drivers can kill the best of clutches... getting a "stiffer" one will just make it harder for them to drive and teach them worse habits.

Have any under bed tire carriers? I still haven't found one 😅

Heat gun and a razor blade. Or an electric drill with a wire wheel, but that's gonna throw trash so be careful where it's going.

Good news is, drilling out the 3-4 rivets really wasn't all that bad. And putting new rivets in was even easier (thank you harbor freight and your big rivet gun)!

Clean up the grounds and connections. That helped with mine (I went LED anyways, but it still helped).

OOF. Good luck. With mine, it was the gear that drove the bead chain that had worn down (my windows would "skip" and chatter when I turned the handle).

They're actually pretty common in the performance world as are differential coolers. Typically Jeeps don't need such things because the low RPMs that both the tranny and the rear end see. Trans-Cool NV4500/NV5600 Manual Transmission Cooler (genosgarage.com)

Probably better in another thread but I saw case temps above 140F when I was running motor oil in mine. Redline dropped it to around 118F (back to back weeks in New Orleans summertime heat, same commute to work each day). As for the OP's original problem, this sounds very similar to what I had happen except my '92 would cut in and out sometimes while driving (causing the whole truck to buck) or sometimes would go completely dead as he described. Turned out to be a bad solder joint in the main harness that was the common 5VDC for the TPS and MAF. When the engine was up to temp and the computer would go into closed loop it would lose signal from both sensor simultaneously (if I unplugged one, it would actually run better b/c the solder connection was high enough resistance that it could supply both sensors, but was enough of a connection that it could supply just one). I ended up using a power probe to check the voltage at both while they were hooked up and was only seeing 2.7VDC when it should have been 5V. Once I figured that out, it was a 20 minute fix to open up the wiring harness and resolder the connection. I've got a writeup on it somewhere, this was 4 or 5 years ago at this point.

Thanks for following up too! We appreciate when folks come back and close the loop on an issue they had!

Possible the P.O. had an issue with it and swapped it for a fuse....and then set this on top of the fuse block only to fall down on you later?

I can't speak on the transfer case for this but I know a lot of folks recommend synthetic motor oil in the AX-15. I did this 2x and both times I recorded case temperatures 20-40 deg F higher than with gear oil. As a hydraulics engineer who deals with fluids and lubricants daily....motor oil isn't great for lubricating gears or being under high pressure. It also tends to breakdown faster due to the additives in it (hence why most manufacturers recommend an oil change every 6 months, regardless of mileage). Dextron III/IV is cheap, that's what I use in mine. Make sure it's topped up and flush every 30k miles if you're concerned. Most additives are just a heavier weight synthetic oil with "proprietary ingredients" added which adds negligible protection at best, can cause extra damage at worse. I've seen where the additive in the main oil (all oil products are some type of "base oil" with additives to make it Shell, Chevron, Pennzoil, etc.) will react with whatever the additive in the "additive product" is and produce gunk or sludge which blocks ports and passages. Not as big a deal in a transfer case as an auto tranny or a motor with an oil pump, but I'm not a big fan of throwing money away on something of questionable value.

Damn, not bad for the little GM V6. My Fiero had a 2.8L in it and I would regularly pull 28-30 mpg out of it.

I'm gonna guess junk yard on that one, unless someone here knows of a Dorman part#.

I'd call that progress!