Tex06

At the time, it was the wife's truck still and she said the same thing that "people were just crazy about it" and they wanted.....well considerably more than I was willing to pay. More than I had paid for my '92 just before the flood. I hope you got a good deal on it and look forward to seeing it out on the road! I need to get around to pulling my dash.....

I'm of no help b/c I don't have a CAD axle but I'm curious as well....

Yikes. Someone whut dun and gone bubba'd that one up good. The repair itself shouldn't be too bad. I'd get a donor jeep of whatever year you want to use the doors from and cut out the pillar about 12 inches above and below the damaged area on the MJ. Then cut out the bad area on the MJ. If I remember correctly, there's a reinforcement behind the body work that the striker goes through....yours is probably shot but you can make a new one or salvage the one from the donor jeep. It's not important how it looks as it will be hidden behind the bodywork, but it needs to be in the correct location (I think jeep uses a "floating nut"....basically a nut that is trapped but can move a bit to allow for adjustment of the striker for the door) or at least close to the correct location. After that, it's just fitting a body panel. Cut and fit, then tack in with a MIG welder if ya got one. If not, you can braze it in place with a torch. Just takes a bit more patience that way. Basically, it's very repairable. Just takes a bit of time. If you use a shop, you can help them out by finding the donor and cutting out the panels they will need. Remember, it's always better to cut out a piece too big and trim later than a piece too small and try to add on.

Holy crap, it didn't get crushed! I talked to the owners of this MJ no less than 3 or 4 times in 2017 and 2018 trying to get this thing. I'm glad it's being saved....and also glad I didn't come grab that tailgate in the night like I wanted to I'm no longer in BR but I find my way up there on the weekends often. If you need a hand, tools, etc let me know! I've got everything to regear your rear axle too

Pull it for a 3800. +1.0L and a very tuneable/reliable motor, plus indistinguishable from the 2.8 block. Keep the 2.8L block for posterity.

Dropped to $25k https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/conowingo-1991-jeep-comanche/7306473825.html

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has "been there, done that". I got lucky and found a stick long enough to fish the keys from the ignition when I locked them in. My '86 K30 on the other hand.....hell I've been thru that rear window a whole bunch!

Why's that? Raptor isn't terribly UV stable from the one time I used it. Good product, and great for a cheap bedliner but for appearances I don't know if I would use it on a whole vehicle. A bondo-eater will remove it easily enough if it's anything like Raptorliner. I haven't removed Monstaliner yet but Raptor does come off with some 40 grit and my big DA (gear-driven).

I like that a lot. 6.5" lift....did you have to use spacers/adapters for the lug pattern?

Very interesting discussion, but I am lost as to what the issue is here? Is it that your triple fan setup is crap? I've got a 137A ZJ alternator in my '92....only because I've got a big ol' amp and 2 10" subs behind the seat. Did I actually NEED it? Prolly not. But I don't ever have issues with my charging circuit, even at idle. My plan is to put in a winch up front and hopefully this should be able to keep up with that over intermittent use.

And this is for a 16" rim if you're using a later model rim....a LOT more options

As of today this is what BFG has for the K02 in a 15" rim:

This should be it if you want new: https://www.amazon.com/Painless-30001-ATO-Fuse-Center/dp/B00062Z5YI/ref=asc_df_B00062Z5YI/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735837516&psc=1

I've got 265/75 R16s on a set of TJ Rubicon take offs on a 4-4.5" lift (not sure exactly what it used to be but it's about 4" now). Rubs at full lock to the right if I remember correctly. I took them off for the 31x10.5 on 15s because I was constantly rubbing going in/out of parking lots. Edit: I did have to run a spacer/adapter to correct the bolt pattern. I ran the thinnest one I could find, I think it was 1.25" IIRC.

You'll definitely have to make sure you don't get it all over everything. Silicone doesn't harden so it works very well in vibration-prone environments. The Oracle stuff is silicone based, not sure what exactly differentiates it from regular black RTV, but it comes with the same precautions (protect any surfaces to be coated later on).

Or use a clear silicone sealant. Water-proof, clear, and holds up up UV very well.

Yup. Put an aluminum can in the bed and drive on the highway, you'll see it travel "up" the bed jump into the air once it gets to the cab and then hit the tailgate....well until you go fast enough to where it goes over the tailgate. As far as keeping your tailgate, this is a great idea if you don't have a camper shell to keep it in place. I remove my tailgate at least once or twice a week to load/unload stuff (been moving a lot of appliances for the new house lately) and prevent it from getting damaged.

What year XJ is that console out of?

Might not. I've a 92 so H.O., not Renix.

And now you're one of the leading posters on the forum!!!

100% rubber bushings if you want comfort. Heims will transmit any shock/vibration straight into the rest of the vehicle. Replace everything though...all that rubber is 30+ years old at this point and is likely hardened or completely shot. For the Bilsteins, I'd highly suggest getting your jeep weighed when loaded down and then calling either Bilstein directly or if you can look up a custom suspension shop and see if they can help you out. A lot of times just giving a phone call and talking with them will help you figure out if those shocks will work for what you want. Just because they're "YJ Bilsteins" doesn't mean they are working as intended or that they'll work for your needs. You don't have to go full custom but a lot of shock manufacturers either sell revalving kits or will rebuild an existing shock to meet your needs.

Yeah, that can be a problem sometimes!

MJs actually would benefit from it quite a bit, the unibody construction made for a very stiff setup (good thing) and they were fairly successful as racers back in their day. If my old body on frame nova benefits from it, the unibody MJ/XJ would definitely see some improvement. Not many folks running a lowered MJ (and 2WD obviously) which would necessitate/justify the running of a Watts Link. For a 4WD, lifted vehicle this would be terrible as you would get rid of most any "flex" in the suspension for clearing obstacles.

100% agree. Part of the reason I don't go bigger on my ujoints unless I'm repeatedly breaking them...I want that to be my failure point if I have the option.