Tex06

The 7% is just from an engineering/gearset POV (I deal with gear design in my day to day). The clearance is a definite nice upgrade but the gearset engagement only makes a very slight difference. Currie's most robust front axle is actually a LP design, a Ford 9" design (yours for only $17k and change!) and many of their axle combos are high pinion both front and rear (a high pinion rear uses the "coast" side of the gear to drive like a LP front would). I don't know why people still use crush sleeves when better options exist, Ratech's smart sleeve is an awesome replacement I've used in all my GM axles, and a number of companies sell crush sleeve eliminator kits for the LP D30. Other than the clearance, I've yet to see a mathmatically better reason for a HP over a LP. Esp considering the price difference in a lot of places. Just my $.02

Haven't done the math in a while but it's like a 7% difference in strength between HP and LP on the gearset alone. You're much more likely to break an axle shaft or knuckle before the LP/HP is a factor. Unless you're running the axle to it's limits, there's no real difference (which is why Chrysler and other makes have used LP front axles on and off throughout the years). D30 is a great axle for trails and daily driver (which it sounds like you're gonna be doing). I'd throw the LP D30 under the truck, replace the seals & fluid, and run it. If it gives you issues, you can always rebuild your HP out of the vehicle and at your own leisure and it'll bolt right back in.

Awesome, love it when people post a good fix to their problems and not just the problem itself! Is this Papa Mel from 3rd Coast Comanches by chance?

If someone was racing their MJ, a panhard would help but a watts linkage is a much better choice as it doesn't pull to one side with the loading/unloading of the rear suspension. For a 4x4 though, any type of bar/linkage will limit suspension travel and many types are susceptible to binding at the extreme ends of travel....something leafs are not prone to. Leaf spring rear suspensions are typically "good enough" suspensions, they do not excel at anything other than being cheap but do a good enough job to work for 99% of the situations a vehicle is likely to encounter.

Wait, I've got a maple jeep?

Rebuilt motor mean all new seals, you'll be good to go. If you wanna save a little $$$, use regular oil and change every 3k. If you want to save a little time, use full synthetic and go 5-7k between changes.

Copper plugs, spending more is just throwing $$$ out the window, imo. I run the cheapest stuff around for oil (usually Wal-Mart's SuperTech) and a FoMoCo FL-1A filter. If you're changing it every 3k miles, the oil doesn't really matter (gets plenty hot here in S. Louisiana). If you like to go longer between changes, go full synthetic. Buy a good filter. On an older motor, as stated above, swapping from dino oil to synthetic can "cause" leaks due to the detergents in the oil. Not super common, but I blame that for finding out my original cork oil pan gasket had a leak (early in my ownership of my MJ I thought that synthetic would be "better". Ended up only doing the one oil change with synthetic, noticed my Jeep started marking it's territory in my driveway....the roommate and owner of the house was PI$$ED. Replaced with gasket the blue Fel-Pro, bought some more cheap oil because I didn't have $40 for another oil change, and never looked back).

I didn't. I researched and bought the Kobalt 24V even though I'm committed with all my woodworking tools are Porter Cable 20V Li-Ion. No regrets so far with the Kobalt setup.

I used a little heat on the manifold and some Pblaster on the fitting. Be gentle

In keeping with @Pete M's theme: What impact do y'all use? I have the 24V Kobalt 1/2" impact and although kinda big it works well so far. Reviews on it are great and it was only $139 on sale around Xmas. Kobalt Impact Wrench

Primer: None Bodyfiller: Also None Paint: Rustoleum Matte Green Clear: Also also, none How my truck was painted: Surface was cleaned and scuffed with scotchbrite. Windows and handles were masked off, grille and lights were removed. Spray away! (P.O. did it and now I'll be removing all his handiwork)

Thanks for following up....I feel like this is the most overlooked part of a "What is this problem?" post.

No light required over the plate? I've been pulled over more than once for that with my ex-military truck.

@schardein, this is some of the best info I've seen on these trucks in an easy to read format. Thanks!

Join the forum www.steelsoliders.com We welcome Jeep folks regularly!

I believe @Pete M might have another assembly too if the weld job doesn't work as planned.

I saw this years ago and bought a 5 gallon pressure/vacuum chamber to do this with. Just never got around to actually doing it, lol. Edit, I even have a couple/3 taillights I picked from the jy to use as my molds. Anybody got a free weekend?

They're generally free if you visit your local pull-a-part. I always grab a few extras and toss em in my tool bag.

Gotta learn that Laissez-faire lifestyle!

Winch (Y/N): Y Homemade/Kit/Prefabricated: Prefab Manufacturer: JCR Offroad Model: Vanguard Link (if applicable): https://www.quadratec.com/p/jcr-offroad/vanguard-front-winch-bumper-bolt-grill-guard-cherokee-xj What you like/dislike or would change if you could do it over again, price, and any general comments.: Damn thing is pricey! jcr-xjfv-tw-pc-vanguard-front-winch-prerunner-bumper-xj-blk-1.webp

I guess house shoes or slippers aren't a thing up north? Not that I do it, unless you count flip flops as slippers. I kick my boots off as soon as I'm home from work and either go barefoot or flippity-floppity.

There's a great couple of pictures of the DBF bumper in my thread above, FYI

If this fixes it get a digital flasher from the parts store. Then you can run LEDs if ya like without issues in the future. Your flashers may be wearing out...I'd also swap in a digital one so you don't have this issue.

I already have people asking me about my "Gladiator Truck" and when I ask if they mean the Comanche they say, "Oh is that what they called Gladiators back then?" Nice work though. Looks pretty good and a great use for a set of otherwise trashed taillights.