Tex06

I've got mine out right now.... would any measurements help?

X2 on the Saginaw/GM guys having a good tear down and rebuild instructions. Somewhere on the internet I found a great pdf with detailed instructions when I did mine. Search for Saginaw steering columns

Found the culprit. It was the clutch spring, the remains of which were lodged in the oil passage that goes to the pinion bearing. Glad I found it, had that come loose it would have wrecked havoc on my newly setup gears and locker. 20220525_174825.mp4

For comparison this is the good side: And other side of the bearing cap: This does explain the massive amount of metal attached to the magnet that someone installed in the bottom of the case.

Regearing my D44 rear end.... already did the D30 up front and just looking for deeper gears. Was not expecting to see this when I opened up the case. The damaged side was loose when I went to pull the carrier after I pulled the bearing caps. Drivers side was very tight as you would expect. This is only my 2nd Dana axle and 5th or so axle rebuild. Anybody with experience please chime in as to what you think could have happened. Passenger side carrier bearing casting area and cap: Something definitely chewed up a bit of my casting. Looks to me like it was possibly a clutch pack spring? Carrier as pulled: some scratches seen but nothing that screamed at me as outside of normal. missing clutch spring: clutch spring in place on opposite side:

Appreciate it! Found them on their website. Ahhh. This would make sense. I'll need these too then if I go higher.

My comanche has gotten full blast hose pressure with a Nozzle (not a pressure washer) and engine degreaser many times over the years. Undo the battery, let dry for a few hours in the sun, then hook back up.

I got these all in a package deal with the bar pin eliminators. Problem is it was years ago and I have no idea what that are. Any ideas? The gal was an XJ builder.

I was going to suggest this but without removing the crank. It's not going to make the leak any worse.

If you have that leak I would fix before chasing the RMS. Mine also leaked down exactly below the RMS when I laid under the truck, not off the starter itself. I'll see if I have any of the pictures I took...

Great looking truck!

Mesquite tree, huh? Sounds like where I grew up.

Rear bumper could be a Westin installed by the dealer.

A big plus to the renix system is the ability to hook up a REM from nickintime and see what's going on. Us with the HO setup are left with cranking the key and counting flashes 🤣 Biggest difference I've felt was the 99+ intake on my motor. Pulls more smoothly thru the entire rpm range.

X2 on pulling the driveshaft and driving.

Is there any oil on the starter? I had a bad leak from the rear of the motor kept up after an RMS replacement. Turned out to be the o rings in my oil filter adapter housing (there's 3 of them). Oil would blow back from the engine fan onto the bell housing and drip down the rear of the motor like an RMS seal.

I would visit a junkyard and pull one. No idea what that would be called.

Nice! Is that a century as well?

And of course, the final product:

Bought an MJ specific camper shell a few years back that had frankly seen better days. Did a repaint with Monstaliner in their White and damn.... does it look good.

If this doesn't do it, I've got oil rated RTV that will definitely seal it....I just don't want to go that far yet.

Regeared my D30 a couple weeks ago and finally got it installed. After 650 miles, I drained and pulled the cover. Good: Axle has been quiet and seems to roll smoothly. No complaints there and the vibrations from the previous axle are gone. Cons: Pattern isn't where I thought it was set when I last checked it. It seems to have moved out ever so slightly. Also had some brass bits in the oil but this is the break in period so I'm not too concerned yet. All in all I'm happy thus far. Draining: Inside the cover Oil

Fixed my oil filter adapter leak. Hoping this was it and not the Rear Main Seal (replaced that about 6 years ago. Shown here is the oil filter adapter from below. You can see the leak where it meets the engine block. What the adapter looks like pulled. The oring shown was leaking and flat, the threaded tube in the middle is actually the bolt that holds it on (5/8" head, tight as heck too.) Banjo bolt removed from rest of housing. Bolt head is under my pinky, you can see the smallest oring here. Opposite side of adapter housing. You can see here where an oring goes.... this was the only one I didn't have. Had to go buy a kit from Northern Tool with an R-26 oring for this spot ($20, SAE generic oring kit). Kit I got from NAPA ($5) that had 2 of the 3 needed orings in it. The big one for adapter to engine block, and the smallest one that goes around the banjo bolt. Hope this helps someone else solve the problem. I had trouble finding any part numbers so I wanted to share what I did.

No, no, no.....I like this title. When you finally end with an LS we can talk about changing it

That's the biggest problem with having a blast cabinet. I also tore mine down and rebuilt a few years back.....but never found hoses that fit so I still don't have A/C. *sigh* I had a crack in my plastic housing, a little fiberglass and black paint and she was right as rain again!