Tex06

Where are you located? I'm pulling a ~4" lift off of my truck at the moment (core 4x4 short arms, drop brackets which help with ride, shocks that are about a year old, some OME springs that have been on for 4 months, and some unknown rear springs). I'll sell em for a steal of a deal if you're near New Orleans.

Look for a set of JIS screwdrivers. I keep them just for difficult to remove Phillips and my Honda motorcycles. Slightly different head profile on the driver thar doesn't "cam out" when over torqued makes a big difference when removing damaged fasteners.

Got a steal of a deal I couldn't pass up. Brand new Clayton long arm kit for $700. I was skeptical of what difference it would make in the ride, and Holy cow did it make a big difference. Side note: I'll have a short arm setup with a drop bracket up for sale soon 😅

700r4 and 4L60 are the same transmission, GM changed their nomenclature in the early 90s on how they name them. Most parts interchange. 4L60e is a different animal though due to the electronic controller. Also I know in Fieros of the same vintage ('86-'88) you can swap the GM 2.8L to the 3.4L and keep the 2.8L ecu to run the bigger motor. You don't get all the power from it but it will run well, so that may be an option.

X3 on this. Look under your jeep, find everything with a rubber end (bushing) and replace it. Then do the same for everything with a grease zerk that's left (ball joint/rod-end). That's basically your kit.

This came across my Google News feed. Very much hoping for a US version. https://www.thedrive.com/news/the-cassette-deck-on-pioneers-new-retro-head-unit-is-actually-a-usb-port

Are you back pinning the connections while running or unplugging and measuring? Also, did you try and wiggle the harness near the coolant sensor you changed to see if there was any change in voltage?

I'm not sure why I'm surprised at this 😂

Just grab the front half of an XJ lift. That's usually pretty easy to find if someone is modifying their rear suspension in the Cherokee world.

No you've got a different setup. My point was it could be another shared power line to two sensors. I've never really messed with Renix, but I'm pretty proficient at electrical troubleshooting. I've got the full set of electrical manuals for all motors (1992 year) so that's where I would start. Does anyone know how much the 2.5 engine management system changed from AMC to Chrysler?

That's renix. I have an H.O. so there is no timer.

Not 100% sure but this definitely sounds like an electrical issue and I've gotten pretty good at those 😁 Fix is page 5 of this thread. I was a little inactive for a while and it kinda got hijacked but the info is in there.

I basically had a bad solder joint that fed both my tps and map in my main wiring harness. Was able to track it down using a wiring diagram after seeing my TPS +5V was dipping to 1.7-2.7V while the engine was running (and only while plugged it....unplugged there was no electrical load on the solder joint so I measured 5VDC every time I unplugged the connector. When you changed the coolant sensor, you probably moved/jostled/pushed on that wiring harness if it's like the 4.0 in any way. Feel free to call me, I have every manual made for the 91 & 92 model year Jeeps bc of this issue.... not sure how much the 2.5L changed after the switch to Chrysler but I've got ADHD and a decent internet connection if the manuals don't cut it.

Replaced mine 11 years ago. The gasket material I used was rubber-fiber if I remember correctly. Not exactly UV stable but, it lasted longer than OEM did (they tore last year when I took my door apart for paint). When you can't find an exact replacement, you make due. I'll be making my next set from rubber sheeting as my paint job is rough and I need additional flexibility to properly seal.

Bought a Snap-on MT2500 🤣🤣🤣

FINALLY! AFTER 10 YEARS..... NO MORE "MAINT REQD" LIGHT!!!!!

If these don't fix it, I have an idea what it could be. It's a PITA to diagnose but if you have a multi-meter I can show you what my 4.0 with these symptoms was.

Autozone also sells gasket material by the roll. I had some leftover from another project and I fabri-cobbled my own.

Terry, I purchased the components from a '96 for my '92 (condensor, drier, etc). The hoses were difficult to source (one in particular, I forget but it was one of the 2 that go to the compressor). If your components are in good shape, the drop in 12 replacement refrigerants work well and are very reasonable in price.

Not being familiar with Nissan as much as Jeep (I'm assuming a hardbody and being an engineer/welder) I'd expect the frame to be the Metric equivalent of roughly 12 gauge sheet steel (slightly thinner than 1/8"), possibly 10 ga. Going overkill on the thickness for the frame repair patch usually results in too much heat needed to make a good weld so either its a cold joint on the repair patch or you get burn thru on the factory side. Either way, you end up with a weak spot for future failure. Our Jeeps are something like 18ga going off memory and AI searches (both highly questionable at best 😂). But it's 2-3 layers thick depending on where in the frame you are.

I have an old pioneer cd player in mine with a USB and an aux port in it. Just bought this and after 11 years of ownership I have Bluetooth!

I've got a set that need a little love. Shoot me a message if you're interested

X2 on needing pictures. Do you have access to a brake for sheet metal?

Wondering the same. Ordered a bunch of stuff from him (got it all so far) but yeah the wait times were long.

Here's a couple pics of the failed MAP. It's Echlin, NAPA's premium brand.