Tex06

Any update on this?

Yes. However the newer jeep will advertise a 1 piece rubber Weatherstripping that they will use in place of the trim. Fit may vary a bit (it's what I have on mine).

My shocks are too long for my current springs. Bought a set of custom springs and they didn't lift as high as they should have. New springs are on order but still need to fix this lower shock mount.

Oh yeah. Swing by Dirty Sanchez Offroad tomorrow, there will be 2 pretty nice ones there.

I've got a 4" setup that I'm selling.... you won't find a better spring setup. Alcan 8 pack rear leafs (less than 200 miles on them) OME 4" front coils (about 1000 miles on them) Also have a Core 4x4 adjustable short arm kit and a set of drop brackets to go with it all. Both sets of springs still have tags attached. Shoot me a message if you're interested.

Much appreciated my dude. Working in 95F degree heat my brain went to mush and I couldn't find any of that info. Thanks!

All weights and model numbers of springs were given to Alcan before the order was placed. I weighed my truck and gave him the 4 corner weights I normally drive with (camper on and off) and what my "loaded" weight would be when I'm wheeling. So I don't think I'm losing all that much from the shell. Front spring info: 11-¾" from top of axle tube to bottom of frame on Old Man Emu coils. This tracks with my buddy's MJ which has Metacloak 3.5" lift dual rates and he measures 11" in the same space. Here's the model of my coils:

I was hoping I wouldn't have to post this but the search function isn't turning up any useful leads and I'm hot and tired under my truck. Finally got my Alcan 8 leaf rear springs installed. Ride is fantastic. However, I talked with Lew and I had ordered 6" lift springs. This was 6+months ago but I thought he told me that I would get 6" running stock Spring Under Axle. This is how she sits: New Alcan rears, new OME 4" front coils, bed empty except the topper (more on that in a second), and it looks pretty level. What I need is the stock measurement from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame, like so: I'm currently right at 12" after I put longer shackles on... with the stock length ones I was at 11.25". My shocks I ordered from Rocky Road Outfitters for a 6" lift are nearly fully compressed: So, yeah basically trying to figure out (roughly) what a 6" lift looks like. I've got a set of 6" metacloak dualrate coils I'd like to put up front but not trying to Carolina squat my truck 🤣 TLDR: Need a few stock trucks to measure their axle tube to frame distance.

Any chance you have your old ubolt plates and would be willing to part with them?

FWIW, my '92 was valued at $19k by State Farm 2 years ago. Was sideswiped by some jackwagon passing people on the shoulder. They came back to me at first with a $3k value and I told them to find me one in similar shape for that price. We negotiated after I turned in a bunch of comps....I may still have all those screenshots if you need them.

Yeah but they're not cheap. Just got in a delivery for 4 bolts and 4nuts for my front suspension and it was $22 shipped. Sometimes ebay, etc has a quick link for a bag of 100 for cheap.

My next question was where did you buy the replacements? I do love me some stainless hardware 😁

Where are you located? I'm pulling a ~4" lift off of my truck at the moment (core 4x4 short arms, drop brackets which help with ride, shocks that are about a year old, some OME springs that have been on for 4 months, and some unknown rear springs). I'll sell em for a steal of a deal if you're near New Orleans.

Look for a set of JIS screwdrivers. I keep them just for difficult to remove Phillips and my Honda motorcycles. Slightly different head profile on the driver thar doesn't "cam out" when over torqued makes a big difference when removing damaged fasteners.

Got a steal of a deal I couldn't pass up. Brand new Clayton long arm kit for $700. I was skeptical of what difference it would make in the ride, and Holy cow did it make a big difference. Side note: I'll have a short arm setup with a drop bracket up for sale soon 😅

700r4 and 4L60 are the same transmission, GM changed their nomenclature in the early 90s on how they name them. Most parts interchange. 4L60e is a different animal though due to the electronic controller. Also I know in Fieros of the same vintage ('86-'88) you can swap the GM 2.8L to the 3.4L and keep the 2.8L ecu to run the bigger motor. You don't get all the power from it but it will run well, so that may be an option.

X3 on this. Look under your jeep, find everything with a rubber end (bushing) and replace it. Then do the same for everything with a grease zerk that's left (ball joint/rod-end). That's basically your kit.

This came across my Google News feed. Very much hoping for a US version. https://www.thedrive.com/news/the-cassette-deck-on-pioneers-new-retro-head-unit-is-actually-a-usb-port

Are you back pinning the connections while running or unplugging and measuring? Also, did you try and wiggle the harness near the coolant sensor you changed to see if there was any change in voltage?

I'm not sure why I'm surprised at this 😂

Just grab the front half of an XJ lift. That's usually pretty easy to find if someone is modifying their rear suspension in the Cherokee world.

No you've got a different setup. My point was it could be another shared power line to two sensors. I've never really messed with Renix, but I'm pretty proficient at electrical troubleshooting. I've got the full set of electrical manuals for all motors (1992 year) so that's where I would start. Does anyone know how much the 2.5 engine management system changed from AMC to Chrysler?

That's renix. I have an H.O. so there is no timer.

Not 100% sure but this definitely sounds like an electrical issue and I've gotten pretty good at those 😁 Fix is page 5 of this thread. I was a little inactive for a while and it kinda got hijacked but the info is in there.

I basically had a bad solder joint that fed both my tps and map in my main wiring harness. Was able to track it down using a wiring diagram after seeing my TPS +5V was dipping to 1.7-2.7V while the engine was running (and only while plugged it....unplugged there was no electrical load on the solder joint so I measured 5VDC every time I unplugged the connector. When you changed the coolant sensor, you probably moved/jostled/pushed on that wiring harness if it's like the 4.0 in any way. Feel free to call me, I have every manual made for the 91 & 92 model year Jeeps bc of this issue.... not sure how much the 2.5L changed after the switch to Chrysler but I've got ADHD and a decent internet connection if the manuals don't cut it.