Tex06

SOLUTION!!!! Finally got cold enough to where I was able to get extended time in the no start condition. Took a troubleshooting tip I found online and grabbed a hairdryer and started heating components I thought were the issue. Idea being, the heat would let the truck start and help me ID the problem. Did this a couple of times, took at least 20 min each time and seemed to be a different component. Well once, I laid my heat gun on the valve cover and almost immediately the fuel pump primed. It had been pointed at the MAP sensor. I tried to replicate this again the next time it failed to start and the truck didn't start at all. Thinking it was another fluke I started tracing out grounds from the relay. I found out if I grounded any of the relays on pin 85 (specifically the fuel pump or ASD), the fuel pump would run, but continuously and the ASD relay would click. At this point I'm testing grounds, checking voltages everywhere I can, and I remember the MAP sensor, so I unplug it and instantly the fuel pump primed. I crank the truck and she starts right up (running rough bc no MAP input). Plug back in, no fuel pressure on the rail, cranks, no start. Verified this twice. Dig thru the parts bin, found an NOS GM MAP sensor I had stashed away, so I verify *again*, not running with current sensor, unplug, and plug into new sensor. Fires right up (not running great, vac line is still on old sensor). Get the new one swapped in, truck fires right up and is idling noticeably another than it has been (had an intermittent stumble at idle if it started when cold). Old MAP was 8 years old from NAPA, swapped in when I had another electrical gremlin. Wrote them a review on it. TLDR: bad MAP sensor was draining power from computer and not allowing truck to start when it was cold outside.

Did you get the answers you needed?

Only 1 is cracked Have the brackets but you'd need to replace the studs on a lot of it.... but the price is right.

Not many for sale around here, especially with working AC. I'm curious what it actually goes for.

I bought an XJ model from Covercraft. It makes a noticeable difference in the interior temp vs the cheap foil one I had before. Fits exactly right too but they're not cheap. South Louisiana sun doesn't play.

Auto or manual trans?

I've got a set that are in ok condition. Both have a single crack that could be repaired (or used as-is). I'd be willing to let ya have 'em for shipping. Sadly the inner mounting brackets didn't hold up. I have them, but you would need to drill out a lot of the studs that broke off when disassembling.

I pulled 3 or 4 from a junkyard for $1-2 each and used what fit best. I believe I ended up with a 2 port GM ball that I mounted in the front by my battery.

$12,500 for an 88. https://www.facebook.com/share/XQALZpB4nS6QqVYB/?mibextid=kL3p88

A difference how? I can definitely see that they're on 😂

Here to say JB weld is a good all around epoxy, especially on glass-reinforced or mineral- filled plastics. To test if the box was abs, you can clean a spot with alcohol real well then wipe with a paper towel damp with acetone or MEK. ABS will smear black on the paper towel and you can use ABS adhesive to repair it (found in the plumbing aisle for black pipe). Not a foolproof test but does help positively ID ABS.

Tried again today, rings and goes to a voice-mail that isn't setup. Don't know of any local to me and I'm looking to specifically do a 9 or 10 leaf. Most places can't do that.

I know it's an old thread but has anyone been able to get a hold of Deaver lately? I was working with Jeff on a set of custom rears and about 3 weeks ago was the last time I was able to get anyone on the phone.

JXP, did you ever find one that you would recommend?

Well damn. I'm gonna miss his 1st reply to every "help me" post. "Did you check your grounds?" 😆 A very valuable member of our small community and will be sorely missed.

Thanks guys! This group really is the best.

I looked into this at one point (same issue, crack at the bottom). I ended up repairing with fiberglass as I had a hole roughly the size of a half dollar that I couldn't find the missing piece for. Has held up well for the past 8 years.

I might take a magnet and add my name to it if that's alright with you Pete. See if that qualifies me to get the plate.

I installed a universal pump and used my stock sending unit. It's nice and quiet other than on first turn of the key when it primes. Was pretty simple to do as well

That's much lower than I get with 4x4, 31" tires, and pulling a load. Check Fuelly.com for comparable but I'd definitely test the O2 sensor, inspect the spark plugs, have you ever changed the distributor and spark plug wires? 13 is very low unless you're pushing 80+ mph everywhere you go or just putting around town with no interstate time.

I used the Summit Racing brand ones. They're not too bad and only $25 or so each plus tax.

And has a little frowny face ☹️

It's 25+ in LA. I definitely qualify, i just want to get around signing an affidavit that I'll never ever modify my jeep. Membership in an "antique car club" let's me do that.

This was my thought as well. I can also do the year of manufacture tags but antique Louisiana plates are hard to come by.

It's either a "proof of membership to an antique car club" or a notarized affidavit saying I won't modify my antique. I choose the former if possible. I'm thinking a little card that says member on it is all they're looking for.