Bull

The meter was reading inaccurately and fluctuating all over from 8-12 volts while the charging system and battery checks out at a constant 13 volts charge and 14.5 under full load. As you can see by the picture the voltmeter is now not reading at all.

Howdy, I am in need of a voltmeter for a 1987 Jeep Comanche. A nice working original or close to original voltmeter or working full gauge cluster would be GREAT! Anyone got one for sale? TY, BD

Howdy All, Well, the old back window slider finally gave way and shattered the center piece, and it is pretty tuff finding a new rear windshield. Anybody have one hidden away or a vendor that may have one, PLEASE, let me know. Thank you.

The clutch wasn't being let out all the way while backing up. New driver was doing the driving.

Howdy All, The rebuild saga of my 1987 Jeep Comanche Laredo continues. I replaced the stock rearend (had to due to damage from busted bolt inside yoke) with a brand NEW custom built Dana 44, upgraded the front gears to match, and even though the install took several weekends all went well. I took the truck out for an easy 4 wheeling test drive on a mountain road and things were going very good until I tested reverse by backing up a short but fairly steep incline about 50 yards long. As I reached the top, smoke was billowing out from the clutch, the pedal was bottomed out with no return, and shifting was non-existent. I let the truck stand and once cooled I was able to drive in 3rd gear but had only 1/2 inch of pedal at the bottom, as the pedal would still not return to the top. I limped home in 3rd gear, let it cool for a few hours and now I have all gears but a very soggy pedal and extremely slippery clutch when starting out in 1st gear. I am looking for advice on a strong and dependable 4 wheel drive clutch system that won't break the bank as I am still recovering financially from the rear end replacement. ANy advice about this matter is greatly appreciated. TY, Bull

The vacuum actuator has stopped working, line rot, switch failed, etc. So I prefer to replace all of it with a positive control cable. Nope, don't prefer to have the wear and tear from a permanent lock in.

Need location suggestions from anyone who has actually mounted on 4 wheel drive Disconnect Cable. The dash is too flexible and not enough room on driver side and still be able to adjust seat. The passenger side would work but then the cable is too close to exhaust pipe and will burn/melt. Any good suggestions? A direct replacement for the factory vacuum system that was supplied on stock axles. This kit eliminates the vacuum diaphragm and puts all of the control in the hands of the driver. No more partial engaging or disengaging, and no more changing vacuum pumps every couple years. Simply push the button and pull the cable to activate. For Everyday street driving press push the cable in to deactivate the shift fork in the axle. This kit can work with the factory shift fork already in the axle, but for the ultimate in performance, upgrade to the Heavy Duty Shift Fork.

not that I have found in my researching

1987 Cherokee Laredo, 4WD, Manual, Long bed OEM Comanche stamped bed liner w/ tailgate cover, leaf springs, steering arms, and 5 slot spiral spoke rims (will send pictures if interested) for trade of STRONG AFTERMARKET rear bumper (send picture) AND fuse panel AND Tail Gate. Parts must be compatible for same truck. I have a few other parts available and am very reasonable as all is negotiable. Parts are near Raleigh, NC and am willing to meet halfway if needed. Thanks, Bull

I need a fuse panel for 1987 Comanche Laredo 4WD, Manual, 4L/6cyl. I believe a 87/88 Cherokee fuse panel will match. Any clean, functional, non-rusted OEM, aftermarket, or matching substitution will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bull

i got an after market am/fm/cassette with removable front plate and cheapo speakers. I am looking for a fuse panel for 1987 Jeep Comanche Laredo. Will gladly swap if you got one or can get one.

Thanks for the info and that sure does describe the problem so hopefully your advice will also be the solution.

I am no longer thinking about a Drop Pitman Arm as there has been a lot of good advice against it. I do think my problem will be found with the drag link length. I'll check the track bar, too. Thanks for the info.

Thanks, I'll check it out and go from there.

Thanks, great video and exactly what I had thought, too. I mean ball joints are ball joints even on a comanche 4wd. Now for the tougher question. I put a 4.5" suspension lift kit that included the following: Rusty's MJ Comanche 4.5" Spring Pack Kit Front Shocks 2 x Rusty's RX100 Performance Shock: RX-36 Rear Shocks 2 x Rusty's RX100 Performance Shock: RX-13 Front Coil Springs 1 x Rusty's Coils - XJ 4.5" Front Leaf Spring Pack 1 x Rusty's Leaf Springs - MJ - 4" - Rear (pair) Lower Control Arm 1 x Rusty's Fixed Front Lower Control Arms (XJ,TJ) Axle Type 4 x Rusty's Dana 30 / Dana 35 – U-Bolts - HD Grade 8 (each) Front Track Bar 1 x Rusty's Track Bar - Adjustable Front (TJ,XJ,ZJ) Rear Spring Bumper At the same time I replaced Left/Right upper and lower ball joints, all front u joints, the steering dampner,and new wheels and tires (wheels-15x8 5x4.5 3.7INBS/ tires-31x10.5R15LT AT Sport). Now the steering wheel is off by 90 degrees (bottom is at 9 o'clock when it should be at 6 o'clock) and the vehicle won't align proper. What did I miss repairing/replacing? I'm thinking I need to get a matching pitman arm for the 4.5" lift? This is my Grand Daughter's truck so it has to be doe right and safe of course. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.