carnuck

I took my 4 cyl '86 MJ (when it was freshly converted to 4x4 an hour before we left) with a 6500lb GVW to Ouray, Colorado in '02. 3 spare tires (glad I had them as we were hit by a delivery truck and wore through left front tires every 300 miles)

I would start vitamin D therapy ASAP! I broke 2 vertebrae 30 years ago (went off a roof and landed with a brick under my back) Back specialists told me I'd never walk again, but my GP (British born and trained) had the 2 broken VBs tied and started me on mega D vitamins and calcium. I went from that to pumping iron again in less than a year and regained my ability to walk. I'm recovering from a broken rib last year (I'll be 50 soon) and even had a car fall on my head (Duvall quake of '95) that almost squashed it, but I survived! (a little Dain Bramaged) What has really kicked my butt is my thyroid being messed up (from one of the whiplashes I've had from being hit from behind so many times at red lights! Freakin Seattle drivers!)

Geez! I'm selling an '86 longbox 2.5L TBI/5 speed/NP207, 3 inches of lift and 4.10 axles for only $2500!

I have one of those cases for my '84 J10 (It's built to withstand turbo diesels in Dodges)

I scored a HEAVY steel bumper off some kind of truck for FREE! (guy got them on a Chev S10 with an exo rollcage) that has a class 3 hitch built in. Since I plan to haul trailer with my MJ after the auto 4x4 swap is done (got the trans/tcase in, 3/4 of the underhood wiring harness swapped and a tilt column shift to go in. Drive shaft cut down is tomorrow)

There are 2 kinds of 2wd rotors. Ones like a rear wheel drive car has, and the others are the same as 4x4 MJ/XJs.

No. The regulator needs to be hooked to vacuum to work right!

I bought one but haven't used it yet. Looks good!

As in "Oh Ren! Ick!" (best Stimpy voice)

If you want to mod the motor so the EGR isn't needed, you'll need the later manifold and EFI system, then retard the timing chain @5 degrees

Column shift? If not, I pulled mine from my '87 (putting in an auto column shift)

I have modded the integral slave bell to external slave on 2 bells so far (second one was because I didn't realize I need the cut out for the CPS sensor)

I have hauled with a bed inside on an angle and with several C clamped at the rails, and the angled setup was better for fuel economy on a long trip, especially in a wind storm!

The AW4 went to 23 spline in the 9th month of '90 production. I went through several parts rigs till I found out for sure!

With the line off, fuel pressure shoots up. The vacuum leak makes up for the excess fuel being thrown in. Same thing happens with the 2.5L and a crack in the map sensor hose! Fuel economy becomes 3/4 of normal.

Pilot bearing is the only difference between BA 10/5 and AX15

I was looking into an upgrade for mine after going through several new OEM ones. Learned several things. #1 ONLY use Castrol GTLMA in them for longevity! #2 Make sure the clutch arm isn't bent or it will push on an angle against the master and chew up the seals (my son's broke right off before we discovered the issue!)

Brake calipers are different too!

I just went through this pulling the BA 10/5 out of my '87 and had the same prob separating them (I knew mine had died. The truck almost launched me into the car in front of me while I still had my foot on the clutch!)

The axles are indeed not stock. Front is from a 3/4 ton Ford highboy and rear is J20. My MJ now had the AW4 and NP242 in it and I just need to do the rear driveshaft and finish the wiring and column swap.

AMC Eagle rear wheel cyls are larger and bolted in place on my '87.

1/4 mil and climbing here (original motor)

I picked up a RHD DJ5 for reasonable money. Going to SOA it and put in an FSJ box and PS with a 4.0L

My first non-tractor offroader was a '61 Vauxhall Victor (NOT 4x4! Although I kept trying to cross the creek on our farm with it)

Mine sounded like that, usually right after a fresh oil change. Can of engine restore made it go away! (almost instantly!) Clogged lifter that needs pumping up by revving the motor.