UNL1MTD

My Cat's output cracked 100% off last weekend. I bought a direct fit replacement along with a new front pipe. The bolts at the flange are rusted crazy bad. They don't appear to be anything special, but does anyone know their size off the top of their head? Thanks, Sean

Maybe I'm just lucky but I've been using them in my D30 and D44 on my LJ for about 3 years and about 10 or so changes with no issues. It makes life very easy when it comes time to change diff fluid.

I'll bite, what is the function of this thing?

Being a Redskin fan, my season was over around week 10. But I'm still an NFL fan. Having been to many games at Fed-Ex and experiencing both Steeler nation and the Pack, their fans both rank in the extremely annoying category. So I default my decision to who I dislike more, which is the Stillers. Having to go to school in PA and enduring that for 4 years is enough to root for the Pack for one night. So GO PACK GO. In all seriousness, I just hope for a great game with great comericals.

My backfires were related to an exhaust leak. Once I fixed my exhaust/intake manifold gasket i've been good to go, not a single backfire.

I don't, but just another thing not mentioned that IMO should knock off a bit of $ on the sale price. As ultimately it will effect how much I can part out to recoop my money.

bleh ... dealing with some people = herding cats XJ is a 1990, Renix, Aw4, NP242. Basically a perfect donor for what I want to do to the MJ. However the vehicle on the whole has issues. It over heats, leaks ATF from coolant lines of trans, AC is broke, interior is busted, rust of doors, and its got very bad death wobble (reason for him selling, been parked since November). And at one time the jeep must have had some really bad oil leaks. Those were fixed by 'some guys' that evidently smoked a lot and left they're butts inside the jeep. But... I went on time, 1100, to look at it. Offered low amount, settled at fair amount $525, but he had to get the wife's approval. Suppose to hear back by 1 lateast 2. 1:45 I hear back with the word that the price is good, but he left for Richmond and won't be back until 4. Meanwhile had a friend in route as tow rig to be doing the deal at 2. Head to Hooters eat, drink, oogle. 4:00 he calls and says now he might be back 5:30ish or could be later. Meh. Also unavaible tomorrow. Meh Meh. Ball is in his court, I can't play games well. I honestly feel like I might just blow it off and spend the money on a home project or OBA on the TJ. I don't really need to do a 4wd/Auto swap on the truck.

Herculiner is designed to be 2 or more coats, it says right on the directions that it won't look good or complelety apply to the bed during the first coat. I did herculiner, its definitely not as good or as clean looking as a professional spray in job. But rolled in using the kit plus supplies, I did mine for about 55 bucks. Which fits my budget for my truck. The surface is fairly rough, so that definitely doesn't work for everyone either.

Yea I'm getting the whole truck. Good deal, going to take a look this week. I will probably pull the trigger on it.

I'm looking to convert my 2wd BA/10 to a 4wd Auto. Would a '90 xj be a good canidate for the swap? I have an 87. Same engine, so trans would bolt up right? Would the cross member be interchangable? Thanks, Sean

I used the Eautoworks wiring kit when I did mine and would recommend that to anyone looking to do this and not piece together the wiring part of it. I put in Rampage H4s as I got a deal on them used. Big difference, especially for low beams. I will say the Rampage lights didn't fit without some trimming to the headlight buckets. I probably wouldn't buy them if I couldn't get them on the cheap. I would probably opt for the Hellas. Check my build thread for pictures/write up.

Took the day off to finish up the MJ. I had tried to finish up the install last week and was rushing. In the process of installing the new injectors I ripped two O-rings when pushing them into the fuel rail. So that halted me until I got the new o-rings yesterday. I popped them in no problem and installed the fuel rail. I cleaned the inside of the air box which was filtly installed it, put on the vaccum lines, clipped together all the wiring. Clamped the down pipe to the manifold (had to use 3/8 16 nuts as the factory metric size didn't match the new manifold) and installed the O2 sensor. I had to zip tie the warm up air tube to the lower rad hose to get it out of the new fan's way. I had things 'done' and cranked her over. Cranked and Cranked, no start. Got out, found a fuel leak at the return line. Depressurized the fuel rail. Uninstalled the fuel rail. Got frustrated ... raked leaves. Went back to it, reinstalled the fuel rail, cranked and START. I think that I just didn't let it crank long enough. I counted and it took 11 seconds for it to turn over. I've started it about 10 times now and each time its been very smooth since the first and at a reasonable time about 4-6 seconds, which is normal for the Renix. Put about 10 miles on it, got to 65 mph. She pulls a lot better, didn't backfire once, and no longer sounds like a diesel. No fuel leaks after the test drive either. Here is the engine bay all put back together. I am looking to quiet things down more though and will likely add a full muffler and a tail pipe vs the glass pack and turn down I have currently. But honestly the BA10 is freaking loud as hell, so until that is ditched its going to be a loud ride. Also my coolant pressure bottle is leaking at the cap. Little dissapointed as I replaced that within the last 2 years. The new fan is super quiet compared to the old and really effects the underhood temps. When I let the MJ idle I heard some whining in the engine bay coming from one of the idler pulleys. Something new to keep my eye on.

I ended up trying to use a spiral style easy out. It broke off in the hole. :mad: Luckily it had a small sliver of it protruding from the hole and I was able to use a small hammer and chisel to back it out in one piece. Then I decided to go down the HeliCoil path. I bought the kit plus a drill bit from Napa and picked up the replacement stud while I was there. I was nervous about drilling it out too far, but I don't think I did. I definitely hit the end of the bolt and there was a small pocket, which I didn't drill past. So I'm hoping that I didn't nic the water jacket or anything. I supose I won't know till its fired up. Anyway, tapped, then installed the Helicoil. Screwed the stud in with some Loc-tite and that was that. Thanks for the tips, advice, and warnings. -Sean

Progress, I went down the HeliCoil route and was able to replace the stud today. The gasket fits, so thats a good sign I was holding the drill straight and level. I'll start putting everything back together next week some time. I also took advantage of the empty driver's side engine bay and replaced the motor mount. Access was darn near perfect and this was a simple job. Old: New: Hit the yard last week and picked up a newer factory aux fan. This is a curved 8 blade, which replaces the straight 6 blade. This fan is in better shape, it doesn't whine at all like the old one did. Great upgrade for 15 bones at the yard.

Any reason to put a stud back in or would a bolt do just as well?