carnuck

2wd rims are slightly skinnier than 4x4 stock rims. I put 33/9.50/15s on my stock rims. (too bad BFG discontinued that size this year!)

Check the hose on the MAP sensor, as when they get clogged or cracked, the fuel economy goes in the dumper! (4.0L too!)

You may have bumped the bottom circuit breaker in the fuse box. That's for the wipers (I have to touch mine with my toe now and then to push it back in)

I have mine bypassed, but drove my rig for nearly 2 years before discovering the rear line was rotted off and clogged! (I went to bleed my brakes and no fluid cam out!)

Trying to find out how many are around this area. I have 2 sons with MJs in Abbotsford, BC and one with an XJ in Kamloops. I'm in N Seattle with 2 MJs (maybe a third soon) and 4 Jtrucks as well as a Ford and IH flatbed plus an XJ parts rig.

I am SOOOOOO tempted to score the "84" MJ (that's what they posted it as on Craig's list) for $200 and shoehorn in the '77 J10's AMC 360 4 bbl with the T5 I took from my '83 J10 and a NP208 from another rig! I'd put that up against any Chebby powered rig any day! LOL!

If any of you need a rad, call 1-800-radiator and tell them Jim from NAPA sent you. (out here it's Moose Radiator)

There are pictures on the wall at Cap'n Crunch Autowrecking of me and my buddy playing freight train. I used my '69 F250 (without a motor) for him with a towbar on the back hooked to a '73 Buick Le Sabre (jumped timing chain) and a '66 Pontiac Parisienne was in front with a tow chain to another tow bar on the back of my '70 Datsun pickup (I had swapped the J13 motor for an Austin Marina 1.8L and auto) It was a flat tow of 3 miles and 3 corners, but they couldn't believe we did that. (I had one of the former Matsqui Police follow us to ensure nothing fell off and no-one plowed into us) The Building department ordered me to have them all gone that day if I wanted to get my permits for my shop, so I did it! That's also how I got my nickname of Junkyard Jim!

I picked up some toy 4x4s that drive and light up (Stomper?) that look like a cross between an MJ and a J10.

a rarity. Me in a monkey suit!http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=218060423&albumID=0&imageID=41484

Wish I had the $$$ to build my shop with living quarters above it!

The front axle is the giveaway to what year range it is. RH drop is '79 and older (square headlights mean '77 or newer) and LH drop is '80 or newer. Cats weren't required till '78 (when 401 went away) because it's a truck. Vin code sez what motor was OEM. Z is 401, P is 360 (something else for 360 4 bbl), C is 258 aka 4.2L. Frame rot from the tin skidplated late model plastic fuel tanks happens just ahead of the left rear tire (from the inside!) It has no fender flares, so it's narrow track (not all flare fendered rigs are wide track tho!) Grills are swappable (some with a little extra work) from '63 to '91. T176 didn't happen till '80 (and had okay gearing) T5 sometimes came with 6 cyls from '80 to '88 with NP208 (I pulled mine because the synchros was supposed to be welded to the main shaft) Gearing is often 3.54 or 3.07 pre '80 (with 3.73 or 4.10 tow packages) '80 and newer got 3.31 and 2.72

I would have to hook all my Jeeps together in a freight train!

First, stock tire is 205/75/15 with 4 cyl auto. You probably have 3.73 gears (4.10s would be better with your tire size) 3 speed auto is 904. 4 speed auto (O/D) is AW4 and much better on fuel and strength. Do you have 4 injectors or just 1 in the throttle body? A can of Seafoam will help the power a bit by cleaning the injectors. If you have 4, then you can upgrade to the 4.0L throttle body (check the sensors are mounted the same and base pattern matches first) That's what the TJ guys do for upgrade. Exhaust leak can actually rob power (top end especially) and a sticking EGR valve will cut power (I left the hose off mine for testing back in '99 and forgot to put it back on)

If you trip over an '86 with auto, it can be NP228 or NP229 or 4 cyl 5 speed came with NP207.

You can cap it off till you get a new pipe.

Turn key in lock from outside and hitting inwards on the door near the handle with the palm of your hand then try it (locking and unlocking multiple times helps sometimes)

Check the wiring hasn't melted to the manifold from the CPS.

Same width. I put an XJ D35 in my MJ. Had to cut the old spring pads off and weld new ones on 1.5" inboard on each side. (did SOA at the same time)

Bad ground in front is causing a feedback through the dash signal lights.

They are not at NAPA! (I work there) Are you doing a SOA? There is an after market bracket that will mount between the axle and springs with a mount built into it. (I have at least 4 of those around)

I didn't see it here, but the 3.8 is a different bell from the 60 degree V6!

If you SYE then you need to point the yoke at the trans. Parallel to the ground if not.

They may have sold you an aftermarket replacement with smaller bore (happened to me) It happens to be the same as some Toyotas. I pumped mine up with a bicycle pump on the breather hole of the lid of the master and someone opening the bleeder underneath. Mine suddenly started puking fluid at the master and slave, but I plan to swap to auto, so I stuck corn oil (yes, cooking oil!) in and the leak stopped allowing me good clutch for several months now (It may freeze yet!)

What is the number on your tcase? 231 or 207 are fine with this. 242 won't go anywhere. 229 will blow apart.