carnuck

Sundancer was the company that did some of these for a dealer.

I picked up a column shift from the local pullapart yard and scored a deal ($20 !) but my son got carried away and broke the cable. I don't want a floor shift (I don't have enough room in the cab as it is!) and even plan to move the high/low shifter to under the dash on a cable like my '73 J4000. The NAPA part # for the cable is no good now.

I did that for the past 3 weeks to and from work, plus I'm moving. Then I tried some cooking oil in the clutch master (I'm going auto, so it doesn't matter) and it WORKED! I was totally amazed it stopped the leak pretty much by the third fill up. My uncle had mentioned it to me years ago.

If it's perfectly round and looks like it could hide a basketball, it's an uncommon Model 20. (I still want one for my '87) BTW, the Dana 35 is also known as Model 15 in AMC circles. The difference is M15 came with 2 piece axle shafts like the CJ Model 20s.

I've seen a '92 4 banger with AW4, AC and power everything!

If you are going full time without serious wheeling or lift, I would go a CV axle from a ZJ with V8. I have an AW4/242 going into my '87 MJ (as soon as I finish moving and a few other projects) and I test fit a NP208J with AX-15 (You need the thick spacer from Partsmike to make it work) I am currently doing an AW4/NP208J in my '83 J10. If the weather clears up today, I'll get some more done (need another FSJ trans crossbar to butcher to fit)

I did the 130 amp upgrade, but haven't done my wires yet (got to avoid any heavy electrical draws until then)

IAC (AKA Idle Air Stepper motor) is gummed up.

If this is an '87/88 with the HUGE connector above the brake booster, you need to open it and all the other underhood connectors and clean them with electrical contact anti-corrosive spray. Make sure the little hose going to the MAP sensor on the firewall isn't clogged (I see that a lot on higher mileage rigs)

Ground wire on the engine block is where I look first

at least I have a replacement for it. Got an '83 J10 longbox to haul my stuff (it'll get the J20 axles I had under the J4000) and it's even in better shape than my monster '84 J10 (which will be @20" of lift when I'm done) The Comanche will always be my daily driver till it dies though (then it'll get a stroker)

Same here (Ford circled the problem) If I don't sell it, the 304/727 and Dodge (or Jeep, depending what front diff I get) NP208.

Check the brake hose length (my '86 was fine but the '85 XJ wasn't) Used stock tracbar (can be relocated) No idea on the swaybar stuff. I have 5 1/2" front coil with a tracbar and lower arms, plus shock extenders and brake hoses. Nothing else in front.

On the motor leaks, make sure the CCV line isn't plugged up, because that makes pressure (blowby) in the engine build up and blow out the seals and gaskets.

I have a flat plate that was part of a swaybar setup from an early FSJ with the mounting stud built into it. As soon as I get time (or a stronger axle) I'll put it in and take pics. It hangs in such a way that bone stock shocks fit in normal position.

I want to graft the front 1/2 of the XJ 2dr (up to the B pillar) I have onto an MJ, but lack time and $$$. (gotta sell the '86 MJ longbox I was going to do that with)

I like the Ruster! I had one with a 318 with 340 forged crank (made it 321) from an old cop car. Sucker hauled @$$ and left lots of double black streaks. Gave a friend a ride in it, and he tried to tell me his '82 Camaro with 350 and dual quad was faster. We did a 1/4 mile time and compared. His eyes got real big (he spent $5,000 on the motor alone) and then I showed him the Dukes of Hazzard moves it could do. We hit a bridge ramp on Zero ave at 120 mph and I landed the car sideways (intentionally. Full roll cage) and we launched straight up the road that was @50 feet past the bridge. That was before my head injury (car fell on me during the Duvall, WA quake of '95) when my eye hand co-ordination was much better. If I'd had the same condition recently, I probably wouldn't have rolled my '73 J4000 when I swerved into the ditch and came back out to avoid creaming into a dark horse in the middle of the road at night! All I needed to do was open the driver's door to stop the slow motion roll by changing the center of gravity.

Check the fluid level in the clutch master. You may have slipped off the pedal just enough for it to ram back and lose fluid on the firewall side. On a side note, it's pretty easy to convert an internal slave bell to external on the AX5s. I have one from an '84 I did. (will be posted later for sale)

got it!

I think it's the stock WJ arms that have the right length AND have a curve built into them to clear wider tires.

oops! replied wrong! melted harness and weak CPS will spark sometimes.

Someone on the AMC-list mentioned using a Volvo S60 semi-auto shifter. It gave you both manual and automatic options. (Volvo uses a version of the AW4 as well as Toyota and other companies)

Just replaced my old 2.5L which had over 300,000 miles on it (odo broke at 298.995 5 years before we pulled the still running motor for another project) Forgot to mention you can bolt a Caddy Northstar to the2.5L bellhousing.

So who's going to tip off Florida State Patrol vehicle inspections?

AX15 is also 23 spline output and BA 10/5 is 21