carnuck

How about one that mounts inside the fenderwells at the back (and pivots up to use and down to tuck away) and just has a crossbar that will fit behind the seat or inside a tube bumper? (That's what my J10 is getting)

If you get the 3" ZJ front coils, it'll lift the MJ a bit more. Conversely 6" TJ front coils dropped to 5" on my MJ.

You can't recline in the cab. You hit your head on the back window! :chillin:

Someone on the Snort4x4.com board has the Borla for sale.

There are aftermarket knuckles available (likely due to the flawed stock design) that even have high steer holes made into them.

CO is unburnt fuel. What plugs are you running? How long before the test was your previous oil change (old oil kicks CO WAAAY up!)

Colder tstat and an oil change right before you go in. Engine is running too hot. Another possible is notch the dist so you can retard cam timing slightly or slot the CPS to retard. (I had to do that to cut pinging in mine since I have no EGR) OH! Do you have an EGR? If it's not functioning NOx will be way up. I also went to NGK plugs for the 2000 Rubicon which cut ping waaay down (which means less NOx is made too)

$1,000 (I've done it)

I'm running 33/9.50s on my stock rims. Before these, I has ZJ alloys with 255/85/16s (33.5/10/16) on with my SOA, but they clipped the fender liner on hard corners.

Different years are indeed different size pilots. Mike the pilot shaft when you have both trans out and it's easy to tell. The slave cyl (integral type) is also different BA 10/5 to AX-15. And of course the bells don't swap.

Well, no... That's where things get fun with the D44 fronts. Certain years (Uh, 86-89?) had a vacuum disconnect! '82 thru early '86 with NP229 tcase and some NP228s. The NP208 and NP219 rigs were 1 piece (lockouts on NP208. NP219 was full time and hubs would destroy it if ran unlocked) A: They are strong enough to handle AMC 401s, but I slide them engaged and put the shift fork behind to keep them that way and go with manual hubs. (I had one rig with vac axle and hubs. I could lock the hubs before bad spots, then flip the dash switch to engage the axle w/o getting out again) There is a BOM number that can be used to find out what they are from. If you found a driver's drop D30 with manual hubs and 5 on 4.5 pattern, it most likely came from a early Bronco II. I think they did 3 years of solid axle? (going from damaged memory)

I'm having a similar problem. It's the pilot bearing going bad and seizing itself to the input shaft. Mine squeals for a sec before it grabs if I'm sitting with my foot on the clutch, then it LEAPS forward! VERY disconcerting to say the least!

Sounds like a bad connector to the CPS or the fuel pump relay is dying. I found the replacement harness for the CPS in my stuff. Mopar #83100062 (came with CPS) I bought it back in 2000 for $40 from the dealer close out. This was for my 4 cyl '86 with TBI.

Check the vacuum motor right above the gas pedal. I knocked the hose off mine and that's exactly what it did!

The 700R4 MIGHT be 21 spline, but more likely 23 spline. (most of the 700R4s are 27 spline)

One from an S10 won't have the CPS hole. You might even find an S10 4x4 Blazer ('86 vintage) with 2.8L and 700R4 trans (had a customer with one today) that has a NP231C attached.

I've seen 3.55, 3.73 and 3.07 with the 2.8 auto!

It doesn't take much to make the hole for the CPS. I use the engine plate as a template with full size bolts through the biggest holes to hold it in place against the new trans. I've done a couple Jeep 727s so far. (putting EFI into my buddy's '80 Wagoneer with 258)

Sounds like your NAPA is lame. I have them in my store (Bellevue, WA)

is the motor from an older XJ? Did you change the flywheel to the original? If not, it won't start.

Don't know if it was factory or dealer installed (or PO) I got it that way from a police auction (guy tried to outrun the State Patrol with a clogged rad. headgasket went)

Buddy of mine swears by Amsoil. (he became a supplier to save himself a few bucks)

unless it's 2wd (common on 4 cyl Dakotas)

More likely the waterpump than the hose. Could be a loose clamp though (mine snapped while driving!)

I have the AW4 going into my "lifted" '84 J10 (Comanche's big brother with D44 front and D60 rear, 52" tires and NV241 rock lok tcase with 4:1 and a 4.6L stroker in front of it) I know it'll take it fine. I loaded the old truck the trans was in up with 5 tons of stuff and hauled that through the mountains here. Not a whimper with a decent cooler. (I usually only see them die when people put the Mopar +4 fluid in instead of Dexron )