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Everything posted by carnuck
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The number of teeth is the same, but the "tone ring" for the EFI is different. HO has 1 style ('91 up), Renix another, and earlier ones (or YJ without EFI) don't have a ring for EFI. NAPA also sells the new flywheels under the same part numbers.
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now that I can see the picture (I enhanced it too) it's a J300 with Dana 44 closed knuckle front (unless they stuck in an upgrade with disc brakes) and D44 rear. It's @'65 (before they put chrome around the top back edge of the cab) and probably has something other than stock or an OE Buick 350 in it. Except for the box, my '73 J4000 was very similar. It was semi float Dana 60 rear with 5 lug (like CJs and Fords) with closed knuckle D44 front and drum brakes all around (at least it wasn't the rare 12" drums!) There's a pic on here someplace of it with an XJ or full size Bronco shell sitting on top of the box before I hauled them away for scrap. With the J20 D60 full float rear, I haul up to 6500 lb loads.
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There's probably a bunch of people that would swap you a matching 3.07 diff for the one that is 4.10! It'll be 9 pinion teeth to 36 ring teeth. The number will be stamped into the edge of the ring gear too.
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People are under the impression that the HO head is what gives the later motors their power. It does slightly, but that's not all. The intake is different (larger bores) and with the raised ports, gives a straighter shot at the intake valves (If I ever get time and $$ to do it, my design would be even better for volumetric efficiency, but compression ratio would need to be dropped a bit to stop pinging) The throttle body is larger bore. The injectors are bigger (slap a set of HO injectors in a Renix rig and watch the power pick up! You'll pass all but the gas station!) The exhaust header flows better too. One of the biggest kickers however is the cam shaft timing retard. By doing that, the power band is moved into the higher RPM range which also allows for more HP to be built up and believe it or not, it's a side benefit of cutting the VE (volumetric efficiency) to reduce engine ping and NOx, so they could do away with the EGR valve at the same time.
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You can buy plates with the shock mount already on it to go between the axle and springs. Then use the spring plates for say a D44 out of something bigger. (I have FSJ spring plates)
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Mine was lifted by the wind and dragged across my hood! (along with the two 33" tires that were holding it down till we had a "mini-twister". "No such thing as Global Warming", my @$$!) My next place is going to get started this summer. Bought property with a hill that I will cut into and build a shop and have living quarters on top. That's bays for 3 cars to park and a lift plus 2 bedrooms and a big living room above and only the skylights and vent shafts will show above ground! (my wife says it's a bunker. LOL!)
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think about the first scratch in your new car. Think how much just 1 sensor will cost you (O2 is like $400 for some of those!) It'll mean you've grown up and become your DAD!
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I scored the newer aftermarket one to put into mine (when I stroke the current motor) and just need the front pipe to make it happen AFAICT. Putting one into my '84 J10 first so I'll find out first by test fitting it into my '82 AMC Spirit I just got (doing a 4.0L head and EFI swap on that one along with an AW4 trans)
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Actually, since it's made by New Process, it isn't Ford. (Borg Warner however IS Ford!) Mopar spun off New Process into the company now called New Venture gear.
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Question on Installing Ford 9" Rear end.
carnuck replied to lovesjeeps's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
There was a "universal" spare rim Ford used to have with 10 bolt holes. It fit both 5.5" and 4.5" 5 bolt patterns. -
Image Not Found Look for letter stamps around the "hole" in the axle housing. That's how AMC lists their axle ratios.
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Mon Dieu! :roll: :chillin:
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You have to dismantle the AW4 to put the 4x4 output shaft in. (it goes in from the front) I'm on the AMC list and can post an ad for you on there to swap for a 4x4 trans. LOTS of them are looking for an O/D 2wd auto for their AMC cars.
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Question on Installing Ford 9" Rear end.
carnuck replied to lovesjeeps's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Some of the bigger Ford cars are too. When I get a chance, I'll be scrapping my buddy's '79 Lincoln (putting the 400 motor and C6 into his '88 Ford pickup that has a tired 351M and trans oil puking C6) and I get the 9" with 5 on 4.5" rear axle with disc brakes. I'm hoping gearing is fairly low. -
I see it's fixed, but thought I'd mention the brake fluid from the clutch master leaking makes a big mess too! I undid mine from the firewall and spaced it a couple inches away.
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Clutch won't completely disengage......
carnuck replied to Tracker's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I drill the yoke through and switch to Ubolts. -
Are we talking 4 or 6 cyl? All 4 cyl AX-5 std and '87 to '89 6 cyl std (with 3 bolt shifter BA 10/5 5 speeds) have 21 spline outputs. AX-15 (4 bolt shifter used '90 and newer) is 23 spline output. AW4 automatic used on '87 to 08/90 XJ/MJs are 21 spline (4 and 6 cyl). 3 speed auto used on 4 cyls '84 to '90 are 23 spline output (and shallow output) I put a NP208J (you can also use a NP219, NP228 or NP229) from a full size Jeep onto an AX-15 (it'll also fit 09/90 and newer AW4s with 23 spline) BUT I had to install a Dana 300 adapter ring (because the FSJ tcases are shallow input) I now have a stronger than NP231 tcase for cheap (I see them for @$150) that already has a fixed yoke output. (I was upgrading to an AX-15 at the time) Only reason I didn't install it yet is because the AX-15 probably needs a new input bearing to ensure longevity.
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I use restore on older motors. It got rid of the clickety clack of my lifters in my '87 after I switched to NAPA 15W40 synthetic oil a few months ago. I prefer oils with zinc in them to make the cyls slipperier and cut down friction (Delo USED to have zinc. The new stuff has 80% of the zinc removed for ULSD engines)
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Trail Pig OffRoad products ???
carnuck replied to CEThomas's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I got a Rough Country adjustable with the tierod style end. Works well with 5" of front lift. Got it on EBay for @$100 -
If you flip the axle, A: Oil will come out and B: You'll have as many reverse gears as you used to have forwards (I found out the hard way when I was a teenager. I wanted to lift my '66 Nova so we flipped it and got 1 speed forwards and 2 reverse (powerglide) The direct cut gear whine was passed off as turbo! LOL!
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I meant a byproduct of poorly burnt fuel.
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non mechanic looking for info
carnuck replied to cableguy621's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Friends don't let friends drive Chev! (or Dodge or Ford) unless they are parts rigs! -
The J300 is nicknamed "Reba" (stubborn and female is what they called it. Inside joke about Reba McIntyre who was in the movie. Get the DVD and watch "The making of") and has a Buick 350 (they busted the Dana60-2 rear axle in the second film and rolled it off a cliff). Anyone see the last of the series with the M715? J100 was the designator for the first Wagoneers and the trucks were J300 till they added a zero (4 digit numbers) J1000 was the 1/2 ton and J4000 the one ton. In '74 they cut the designators back to J10 and J20 (with a couple J30 campers and tow trucks) til the Jtruck went away in '88.
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You could still be out on the dist positioning.
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We got 6 inches here in the Eastside (very near Microsoft and Seattle, which got NONE!) Sun came out in the AM and melted most off (I can't get my van to start and I want to go to the swapmeet next sunday! WAAAAH!)
