MJ88User

Just info for people near by, this is way to far for me to go get maybe someone on the board can rescue these. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4155558199.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4155765734.html

Wanted to post earlier but have been feeling under the weather, but I got the bracket, was exactly what I needed, great doing business with you MJRemi.

Looking for a fuel filter holder, the PO took off the top of mine and lost it, looking for the part that locks the filter down or the whole thing for an 88. Thanks

http://fordfuelinjection.com/ You might start there is has a lot of information on converting. Some of the stuff in the store you can find if you make trips to the junk yards and look but it's getting scarcer to find. You can go either Chevy or Ford as some of the most bullet proof EFI systems came out in the 87- 94 years in both systems, with the best expandability and mods around. Fords use 2 O2 sensors at times it’s a PITA to mod those EFI systems to run on a non-HO engine. Chevy used 1 O2 sensor in most of there stuff at that time and might be easier but they use a different firing order, it's nearly the same as the Ford HO systems and you might have to change a cam to get it to work, another pain. If you can find a Cougar or T-bird in the 87- 91 range it will have the same non-HO firing order, I think the trucks of those same years where Ford's normal firing pattern also. I've done this on a 289 to convert it to a EFI, it can be a pain but when it runs you get all the advantages of FI, no I don't like carbs. And yes I have spent my time over a flow box balancing carbs, I didn't like it then and no I don't want to do it now or ever again so I just use FI and will be lazy. Only thing I have left is a trans and mounts, and of course cash, time and energy to finish my build. I would be interested in any pics when you get to sticking thin in the rig. later

Same problem here i have a bad ground on the drivers side and i have to tap on the lense cover of the light to make the dash light go out. Everything still works it just looks funny when the dash indicator is on. I have to go in and soder an addition lead on to the socket or the case and run it to body ground, just haven't had the time to take the lens out and look at it to make the ground better.

Eagle It was from a V6 2.8L I didn't look at the Trans real close so I'm no help there. carnuck I will look for the stampings when i clean off the years of stuff maybe this weekend, I'm hoping that i find something. Most likely what mjeff87 said willl happen, when time is avalible so this might just be the way i find out for absolutly sure. Thanks all for the info Andy

Thanks Pete M & 87manche, I saw no tag so I guess I'll have to open up if i can't figure it out by turns. Andy

I found an AMC 20 (I hope, it looks like one to me) under a 86 MJ XLT longbed out in the local yard to replace the Dana 35 mine has now, got the whole rear end, leaf springs and every thing for $200. Can any of the Guru's on the board confirm that this is a 3.55 ratio from the markings on the back of the diff? I have read in various places the big 'N' might be 3.55 and a trac-lock, or am I looking in the wrong place? Sorry about the cell phone picture as you try to diagnose this. Thanks a bunch if anyone can confirm these suspicion's of mine. Do any of you suggest I go back and pick up anything else for this to fit perfect, or do I have the most important stuff? Oh yea the drive shaft had been bent when they put it in the yard so I'll have to wing it there. Thanks again Andy

yes it works, I've done this on my 88. You need to make sure the front ratio matches the rear ratio. The non-disconects has a stamped metal bushing suport for the control arm, some have stated that this is a weaker support than the one on the disconect axle. Some have just swapped the inner shafts but it that takes a diferent seal, if you search around on the side here you might be able to come up with all the parts and maybe even a writen step by step instruction list. I can't point you to one but maybe someone else has a link or something they could post up.

I bought new cables for just about 35 buck each when I did a disk brake conversion from the local parts house. You might check on looked for new ones, to save the hassle of pulling unknowns from a yard and wasting to much time. Just a sugestion. Andy

On the parking brake issue. The cable for from the foot pedel to the center feed is different on the MJ than to the center handle on the XJ, they have a differnet way to lock into the frame as they pass throught it under the truck, not hard to swap just little stuff. The hardware on the threaded rod under the truck is all the same, the 2 nuts on it and the funky cable pulling assembly wedge. The cables to the back of the trucks are not the same, the ones on the XJ are longer, i had to use some in a pinch on my MJ and had to take up some slack, about 5 inches of it. The PO had cut the e-brake cables to the axle on the MJ. The brackets under are at different lenghts from each other on the truck, so even if you had the whole assembly from foot pedel to the axles you would have to make it fit, not impossible but with some work it is do able. I hope this makes sence, i don't have pictures of this avalible but if you need some i might be able to get some taken and post them up. Andy

But that one is to point it straight back so a larger filter can be put on. This looks like the index pin (it's a roll pin in the block) that keeps the filter pointed up or back is broken and has allowed the filter housing to rotate. I'm not sure on how I'd feel about the stability of that housing. If it were me I'd be taking that filter housing off and inspecting the insides of it just to make sure all is well. Might want to, but if you do have the o-rings handy to replace them. Read up on the link that JeepThing gave you up there it's a good link and a good write up, but I would check the guts of it at a minimum

Would replacing the D35 with the explorer setup be considered the most expedient replacement? From what I gather their is no bolt up options for the MJ and everyone seems to point to the explorer axle as the way to go for a quick and reasonable replacement. Is it the closest center to center for perches or is it just the least to hassle with when fabricating a replacement?